texplorer Posted September 6, 2004 Share Posted September 6, 2004 Greetings CCer's, I just got to see a prototype of the new BD cams. Already a fan of BD mid range cams, I think the new cams have some great improvements. As you can see they have replaced the old thumb trigger with an alien-style loop. As a result they should be better for aiding (closer clip in point). They are also 20% lighter. The loop trigger design eliminates one swage point and the attachment point has been hollowed out. The holes in the cam lobes have also been changed to cut a bit of weight. They also have sewn the sling shut at the tie-in point. I handled a new # 5 and it felt smooth and like a great piece that is noticeable lighter than the old bds. The other major change is a change in sizing. Up to the #3 will stay the same but above that is all different. There will no longer be a 3.5 and 4.5. Now there will be only cams 1 thru 6. The new #4 will be slightly smaller than the old #3.5 and the new #5 is purple and is slightly smaller than the old #4. It will take a little getting used to the new sizes but they should cover the ranges better and eliminate the stupid .5 sizing crap which never really ever corresponded to size anyway. There is even word that they may be slighly cheaper (I'm not holding my breath). Other than the new looped thumbcatch they feel the same as the old BD's. I am anxious to add a few to my rack when I reap all the "two cents worths" from this site. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glacier Posted September 7, 2004 Share Posted September 7, 2004 Fondled some a few weeks ago - will definitely be using them to replace/upgrade some of my older cams... I like the alien'style loop - a bit easier to get teh thumb into that nteh knurled knob in the current model. And the weight difference is notable, even on the medium-sized models. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted September 9, 2004 Share Posted September 9, 2004 wow....20% lighter is huge. i'd wait for the inevitable BD recall before buying into them though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted September 9, 2004 Share Posted September 9, 2004 BD does seem prone to releasing new products before they are fully field-tested, don't they? I bet they will be safe though - and if there's a recall I sure hope you'll be able to trade them in without buying a new one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cj001f Posted September 9, 2004 Share Posted September 9, 2004 I just fondled the #4 & #3 Nice Cams! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted September 9, 2004 Share Posted September 9, 2004 I want the equivalent to a 2.5. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted September 9, 2004 Share Posted September 9, 2004 there is a Friend that is the exact size a 2.5 Camalot would be Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted September 9, 2004 Share Posted September 9, 2004 Ya but friends suck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted September 9, 2004 Share Posted September 9, 2004 Lighter, cheaper, more durable, cooler, and not from a company specializing in perma-recalls... sure sounds like "suck" to me alright Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted September 12, 2004 Share Posted September 12, 2004 Ya but friends suck. you suck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted September 21, 2004 Author Share Posted September 21, 2004 Typical canadian response to anything made in america Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted September 21, 2004 Share Posted September 21, 2004 BD tried to lighten up the cams but spec charts show them still to be heavy. - I'll admit I haven't held one yet though. All rigid friends should be sent to me for proper retirement and disposal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted September 21, 2004 Share Posted September 21, 2004 All rigid friends should be sent to me for proper retirement and disposal. Haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_Simpkins Posted September 21, 2004 Share Posted September 21, 2004 I have a set of Rigid Friends, Tech Friends, DMM 3CU's, and Black Diamonds. Yes, the BD's are heavier, but a rack of BD's with the same range is lighter than a rack of Rigid Friends and takes up less room in the pack. Plus, the range on the BD's is so good that you can get a couple of them is a same size crack. With the Friends, your screwed unless you bring doubles. Plus the #1 Forged Friend is practically useless because of the cam lobe to stem size ratio. So breaking it down: BD's from 19.6-87.4 mm are 706 grams with 5 cams Forged Friends from 19-82 mm are 720 grams with 6 cams. Plus the BD's overlap in sizes a bit, are flexible, take up less pack space, easier to place and can be placed in passive mode. The forged friends are good for doubles in the larger sizes and the #4 Friend is a good alternative to a 3.5 or 4 BD. And the argument that you get more cams for the weight with the forged friends doesn't hold up with me. Since the range on the BD's is much greater, you can usually get the ones you have left into a placement, the Friends are so picky about sizing that I always get to the belay with a bunch still on the rack. What I do like FF's for a lot is on routes that only require one or two placements and you know the size before hand. Then, you can save a lot of weight. If anyone wants to buy a #1 Forged Friend let me know. I like the bigger sizes for doubles. I think I am going to sell the larger sizes of my Tech Friends, like #1-4. They are in good shape. I like the smaller ones and the #6 ! I also want to add that more cams = more biners=even more weight. You can't just consider the cams weight, but also must consider the biners, unless you rack on one biner. So with Trango Superflys which are 30g a piece: BD's from 19.6-87.4 mm are 706+5(30)=856 grams with 5 cams and 5 biners. Forged Friends from 19-82 mm are 720*6(30)=900 grams with 6 cams and 6 biners. That’s a difference of 44 grams which is about an oz and a half. Actually, that’s pretty nitpicky, I guess. Oh well. FYI. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted September 22, 2004 Share Posted September 22, 2004 Everybody has their preferences. For me I, like the ff better then the BD for almost every application Especially 1. Redpointing a heinous crack that you are working where you know the sizes. 2. Onsighting a long enduro crack that requires a monster heavy rack 3. Alpine routes 4. I love the #1 friend and have fallen on that size a bunch. I even took a huge free fall on a #1 that was placed tipped out inside an icy flaring crack in gargbage rock. it was my only piece and saved my life. I had a pack and crampons on. Everybody likes certain gear. I just sold my last remaining camalots. I still use friends I bought in the 87'. Cable units are trashed by then. -just my two cents Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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