best of cc.com [TR] Mt. Robson- North Face 8/14/2004

[Dru]

did you cut your tags off?

 

no toothbrush? gingivitis kills just as many alpinists as rockfall does

 

North face skiing

[cracked]

It has never been skied and it was concluded unskiable

 

[AllYouCanEat]

I found this portion written about the dude who first skied Robson exciting. This is from one of the links posted here earlier..................................

 

Chrzanowski and a Peruvian skier, Americo Tordoya, attempted a first-ski descent on 20,000-foot Mount Ranrapallca. The ascent went fine but a few turns into the ski descent, Chrzanowski lost an edge and cartwheeled 700 metres down the icy, steep pitch, landing in a shallow crevasse. He was barefoot because his boots and socks had been ripped off by the tumble.

 

Tordoya found him, placed him in a sleeping bag and gave him tranquilizers. Chrzanowski dozed in and out of consciousness until rescued three days later. (Tordoya would die in an avalanche in 1983.)

[Shawn]

You know theres been so many rumors floating around about it being skied for so many years and know one could ever tell me by who or when.

I recently watched a documentory on its attempts and it had still not been done at that time (documentary was late 90's. so like many I to "thought it to be impossible" however it apears I was wrong. Once armed with thier names a simple search resulted in the information I had searched for a few years back.

I am not doubting these guys, I had no Idea they even attempted it since the rumors have flown about it being skied since the eighties.

 

Now some of you guys are older sure and I never said I was swinging axes etc while all of you were in diapers sheesh get a grip people!

Is this how you guys are over here? Do you try and jump on everything and take everything as an attack?

Im strong enough to admit a mistake and humble enough to realize an error and change course or action.

Are you? It keeps extreme alpine climbers alive, the weak can not be humbled and die for thier pride, Ive seen it happen too many times.

I am not a guru of whos doing what and everything going on in the climbing world. I climb for me not to impress any of you. Maybe if I spent less time in the mountains and more time on the internet or reading I would have all the details of everything. of course I realize when you run in certain circles you here of stuff word of mouth so it should be expected that an avid climber knows some stuff going on.

 

You know I post an apology to Colin and the next post (not by colin) is another atack? WTF?

The context of my statement regarding peope not still wearing tweed suits to climb in, is not that any of you cant, only that were suppossed to be a different breed of gentlemen these days. Apearently some of you are and some of you arent.

Colin has stood out in this thread to me as a gentleman and therefore I have respect for him. SOME of the others posting on this site apear to have some real issues.

Maybe you just need to climb more and get some of that out of youre system.

 

As for me I count actual climbing since 1986 as when I was basically leading and guiding friends on mountains I climbed for years before that but I dont count it as I was prety young still. Please note; the reason I had mentioned that was only to qualify that i am not some neewbie, that was all. Apearently context of a statement is irrelavent and it appears that picking out statements to attack someone is a common practice.

 

Now I feel like there is a reason Ive never come to this site before, maybe Im not welcomed here, maybe we all just got off on the wrong foot.

I have tried to make things right and have helped rescue pompus egos of mountains before. Would you guys?

 

Ask yourself if your strong and man enough to be civil and respond accordingly.

Colin was.

 

What makes those attacking me any better then I was? mmmm

I came on this board to set things straight whats your excuse?

Have I pushed my limits? of course.

Do any of you know my acomplishments? NO

Did you guys actually read what I said in my other posts? Doesnt sound like it.

Colin your gear list does not sound a whole lot different then mine except I took some luxery items for on the way in (like a couple begals.)

and of course soloing your lighter in the rack and rope dept.

Somone said 47lbs was heavy once I had my clothes on crampons tools in hand 2l of water power gels rope fed out harness on etc including pack weight Im only carrying <15lbs including stove and fuel bivey sack etc.

I know i can shed a few pounds yet in my system but I dont think Im hauling too much weight, hell Mark twight says he feels anything under about 30lbs is about right when climbing.

Anyway Im not going to try and justify myself to people that are only interested in trying to pick out negeative things and try to critisize others no matter what.

 

As I said before my aproach to this topic was wrong. But some of you guys are stuck in your pride and that blurrs your judgement that tells me what type of a climber you are also, not what youve done or how hard you climb but how you are mentally and unless some of you have an attitude change you will be one of the friends of another climber that dies on a mountain it will catch up to you.

There is enough calculated risks in this sport start being narrow minded (as you so called me but however have shown Im not, if you look back at my responses.) and stubborn only seing things the way you want to see it instead of actually taking in and assesing a situation for what it actually is and you will end up dead on a mountain to be sure.

Again this is not all of you, but if you turned around and slammed me then you are EXCACTLY what yu accused me of.

So tell me all you big shots. How is it beter for you to do it?

In fact those that did it after my aplogy, I showed that I am not one to be stubborn in the sence of being unreasonable in fact I displayed that I can take into account new things and change my opinion.

 

You on the other hand have shown that you are worse then what you have acused me of by your own definition.

I however am assuming that yu guys are really infact just a little slower to come around and in fact maybe quite reasonable. So is my thinking you guys are alright correct or will you prove by your own standards to be exactly what you apaul??

 

Good day

[Dru]

Don't let the door hit you in the ass on the way out.

[fenderfour]

You were new to the playground. You shouldn't go pissing in other people's sandboxes until you know what they are about.

[mattp]

Shawn old chap,

 

You went on Internet bulletin boards to make accusations that other climbers' lied about climbing and skiing Mt. Robson. In the case of Colin, it appears you may not have carefuly read his report before you called B.S. on it, and my guess is you didn't attempt to contact him before you elected to call him a liar. In the case of the Dirtbag skiers, you could have found out that they skied Robson's north face in a ten minute search using Google - even with a slow modem - and that the "rumors" were true.

 

I have complained of abusive rancor and pointless personal attack on this board for years, but one should not complain about it where they are challenged for making unsubstantiated or indefensible pronouncements.

 

Carry on, my good man. Tally ho.

[jordop]

Quote

Colin has stood out in this thread to me as a gentleman and therefore I have respect for him. SOME of the others posting on this site apear to have some real issues.

Ask yourself if your strong and man enough to be civil and respond accordingly.

Colin was.

 

.

Edited June 7, 2021 by jordop

[Shawn]

Jordop that kind of stuff might scare you but doesnt faze me abit, It is obviose you know nothing about me.

If Colin wants to come by, then by all means I suspect wed have a beer together.

I real gentleman is a sighn of strength but I gess some of you wouldnt know that.

Anyway

This is pretty entertaining

I posted on RC

Cheers

[Dru]

We no hough yu spel and thaits bed enuf.

[Gary_Yngve]

All this talk of Colin, the dudes who skiied the NF, etc., reminded me of the following:

 

The best and baddest ascent of Robson ever was done by

Ashley Young, EXTREME CLIMBER. However, it is being disputed by Lisha Hudson, EXTREMERER CLIMBER. I am currently reviewing both of their documentation to decide whom I believe.

[Distel32]

Jordop that kind of stuff might scare you but doesnt faze me abit, It is obviose you know nothing about me.

If Colin wants to come by, then by all means I suspect wed have a beer together.

I real gentleman is a sighn of strength but I gess some of you wouldnt know that.

Anyway

This is pretty entertaining

I posted on RC

Cheers

 

Colin's not 21, you'd be arrested for supplying to minors.....

[Shawn]

Hi guys,

I posted one last time on RC

Just to let you know I actually have no hard feelings,Some of you are even funny.

 

off to climb

Cheerz

[Zoran]

Go ahead Colin!

Z

[genepires]

Can the moderators ban people for bad spelling? Too much makes my brain hurt. Maybe someone could edit Shawn's posts? Is there an english teacher out there to help out?

Edited October 14, 2004 by genepires

[Dru]

Back on topic I found some info about speed ascents of Robson N side routes on Will Gadd's website

 

Emperor Ridge Notes

Here's a time for your huck-fest page, more as a challenge than as a record time (I'm curious if it is, and thought you might know) as I'll explain. Left Berg Lake trailhead at 3:20 am on Monday, July 26th, at the bottom of the rock of the Emperor ridge (bottom of route) at 10 am, at summit at 6:30 pm, in a whiteout. My idea had been to do it car to car in 24 hours, but I'd never been down the normal route, so I had to sit it out til it cleared a bit. Started down at 3 am on Tuesday, got to the car at 12:20, making it 33 hours round trip. Elevation gain same as your trip up the normal route. Notes: 33 hours minus 8 and a half hours on the summit is about 24 hours. Also, I didn't know the route, so I carried extra gear including protection which I didn't use. Someone going light, knowing the route, and lucky with the weather could definitely have a "good day out in the mountains".

I don't know if you want to post this, but I thought that 24 hours on one of the supposedly "technical" routes was a good challenge.

Also, in the hut book on the normal route (Ralph Forest is it) John Ionescu wrote that he had done the north face in 15 hours car to summit, which is the same as my time and doesn't seem that unreasonable. I was pretty messed at the time so maybe I read it wrong, but I'm pretty sure that's what he wrote. Anyways, if you have a sec maybe get back to me if you know what the established speed time is.

 

Cheers

Ian Welsted

[Alpine_Tom]

Can the moderators ban people for bad spelling? Too much makes my brain hurt. Maybe someone could edit Shawn's posts? Is there an english teacher out there to help out?

Yeah, where's Muffy when we need her?

 

I think this guy said he brought a couple of beagles along. As much as I enjoy hiking with our westie, I wouldn't carry her in my pack. He must have brought dog food along as well, and a water dish... no wonder his pack was so heavy!

[scrambled_legs]

Does anyone have any pictures or beta for the approach from Berg Lake to the start of the North Face? I've heard that this stretch has gotten extremely ugly in the last few years and Colin's TR seems to suggest that also.

 

That is one understated TR if I've ever read one. No wonder why this guy is getting awards, the North face solo in under 2 days... sick, especially with descending the Kain not the SSW. I plan on taking 4 days and having 3 weather days and still would say that my chances of pulling it off with Robson weather, is slim.

 

Any pictures or beta would be greatly appreciated.

[fourteenfour]

awesome work!