Greg_W Posted August 6, 2004 Posted August 6, 2004 Something sensitive and smeary. Scarpa fits my foot well. Quote
RuMR Posted August 6, 2004 Posted August 6, 2004 uhhh...5.10 pink anazasis are the absolute shit for face climbing...you can not find a better shoe, period... they crack climb pretty well too... Quote
Greg_W Posted August 6, 2004 Author Posted August 6, 2004 uhhh...5.10 pink anazasis are the absolute shit for face climbing...you can not find a better shoe, period... they crack climb pretty well too... Do they sell them at Feathered Friends? Quote
Alpinfox Posted August 6, 2004 Posted August 6, 2004 Greg, Do you no like your Marathons for slab climbing? Quote
Greg_W Posted August 6, 2004 Author Posted August 6, 2004 Greg, Do you no like your Marathons for slab climbing? Actually, they are not bad, but I do notice a slight loss of sensitivity. Plus, I have to replace a pair of shoes that got stolen and want to diversify. As an aside, I think the Marathons make a good all-around shoe. I've climbed 5.10 faces/slabs in them. Quote
Paco Posted August 6, 2004 Posted August 6, 2004 I started a similar thread a while back and got a variety of answers. The biggest thing to consider when buying slab shoes is the fit. When slab climbing all your weight is on your feet so if your shoes hurt when a lot of weight is applied, then they will not make good slab shoes. The next thing to consider is what grade slab you are trying to climb. When I wrote my thread I was interested in hard slab routes. I want to climb the Squamish 11's. 5.11 slab is way different then 5.8 slab. With 5.8 slab any comfortable shoe will do fine. When the slabs get harder the edges get thinner and the smears get steeper so a higher performance shoe helps a lot. I like the 5.10 lasts because they fit my feet well. I have climbed squamish 5.10 slab in my moccasyms and they have performed well. The shoes are a few years old now so they are pretty soft which makes my feet work MUCH harder. I love their sensitivity though. One complaint is that they do not edge too well because it's soft underfoot and the edges get rounded quickly. I basically smear everything when I climb in them. I bought a pair of anasazi laceups, but haven't climbed much in them yet. I think they will be an awesome shoe. I can edge like a mofo in them because they are stiff underfoot. They also have great sticky rubber, but the shoes are not as sensitive as the moccasyms. I also might have bought them a little too tight for slab, but I'll have to use them more to find out. When I smear in the Anasazi's I cannot lift my heal up as high as when I'm wearing my moccasyms because my toes get pushed into the front of the shoe. This may change after use. This makes it harder to stand on a smear because the end result is that my ass is farther away from the wall and I'm not pushing down as directly. I hope this helps. Quote
Greg_W Posted August 6, 2004 Author Posted August 6, 2004 Thanks, Paco. I'm not trying to push any hard limits, I'm just looking for another arrow for my quiver. Who knows, maybe I'll buy a slightly smaller size of Marathon. Quote
mmcmurra Posted August 6, 2004 Posted August 6, 2004 I can't imagine a better slab shoe than a pair of broken-in Mythos. Soft, sensitive, fit like a sock. Quote
Off_White Posted August 6, 2004 Posted August 6, 2004 Slab is all a mind game anyway. If you truly believe you can stand there, it doesn't matter what is on your feet. Voodoo Child 5.11a on Mt. Lemmon was put up in Robbins blue boots. Quote
slaphappy Posted August 8, 2004 Posted August 8, 2004 I have had great slab success with the Scarpa Marathons. A nice snug, not mind blowingly tight, fit keeps the shoe from rolling on the foot. I have some Montrails (model ?) that I haven't used a lot yet but they seem to be working out all right as well. They're a bit softer and more sensitive than the Marathons. mmmm slab. Quote
icegirl Posted August 8, 2004 Posted August 8, 2004 Oh, come on, they are SO NOT SUCK! (just cause they don't work for you Rudy...) Pretty? Light purple or Sea Foam Green (IF you can wear the girly one - I can't) being your only options... Dude, I don't think people are buying them for their looks... Quote
RuMR Posted August 9, 2004 Posted August 9, 2004 mythossuckmythossuckmythossuckmythossuckmythossuckmythossuckmythossuckmythossuckmythossuckmythossuckmythossuckmythossuckmythossuckmythossuckmythossuckmythossuckmythossuckmythossuckmythossuckmythossuckmythossuck about the only thing they are good for is reading the morning paper sittin' in an ez chair Quote
icegirl Posted August 9, 2004 Posted August 9, 2004 i'm sorry, I didn't catch that Rudy, could you turn it up a bit? mythos so Quote
willstrickland Posted August 9, 2004 Posted August 9, 2004 If you are Alex Huber, you can get Sportiva to make you some Mythos with undyed leather and have cool tan ones. The rest of you wankers get to deal with purple toes instead The hardest slab stuff I've done has always been in old blown out slippers, but for anything more than a pitch I prefer a stiff edging shoe that is well broken in so that is has some flexibility, but still alot of edging power. Slab is all about body postion and weight transfer. Watch someone highstep sometime...most people will almost have to "bounce" onto the high foot. If you can keep the good body position (i.e. centered over your feet), make smooth weight transfers, and have alot of strength and flexibility in your lower body, the shoes are the least of your worries. Quote
Greg_W Posted August 9, 2004 Author Posted August 9, 2004 mythos mythos mythos! This is what I bought. Thanks to the chica at Feathered Friends for the help. Funny, I think I sold her on a pair of Scarpa Marathons, since I raved about mine so much. Quote
markinore Posted August 9, 2004 Posted August 9, 2004 I like Mythos, but I have a very narrow foot that makes them not fit so well. About four months ago I bought some Evolv Bandits. The fit is excellent, and the rubber seems even stickier than 5.10 rubber. They have become my smearing shoe of choice. Consider Evolv, especially if your feet aren't real wide. Quote
JayB Posted August 10, 2004 Posted August 10, 2004 5.10 Ascents. Trad-Slipper. Edge well, sensitive underfoot, comfortable enough for multi-pitch. Cheap at www.sportextreme.com. Used them for up to 5.11 slab. Quote
Greg_W Posted August 10, 2004 Author Posted August 10, 2004 mythos mythos mythos! This is what I bought. Thanks to the chica at Feathered Friends for the help. Funny, I think I sold her on a pair of Scarpa Marathons, since I raved about mine so much. Thanks for all the suggestions, but I bought a pair of LaSportiva Mythos. I'm sure they'll work great. Quote
jshamster Posted August 17, 2004 Posted August 17, 2004 Mythos are great shoes. Just make sure you wear out the rubber as soon as possible. Then get resoled with 5.10 stealth. La Sportiva rubber sucks. Quote
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