Juneriver Posted August 9, 2002 Share Posted August 9, 2002 quote: Originally posted by erik: dear ignorant unsafe climber, thanks for letting me know that you are not intrested in making your climbing safe Dear Illiterate Climber, The top of the thread reads, "Stupidest thing I've said or done climbing?". I would not have contributed if it asked for the smartest thing I have done. I realize this was a "Stupid" mistake. Thank you so much for showing me how much smarter I could have been that day. I'm sure that nothing stupid has ever happened with you around to stop it. The "kiss it" the first time was meant jokingly... i mean it this time... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted August 9, 2002 Share Posted August 9, 2002 autoblocks suck on double rope rappels. too much weight. just get a grip and let er rip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted August 9, 2002 Share Posted August 9, 2002 OK, friends. Who wants to remind the Doctor of what an autoblock is? (We get lowered off of sport routes.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted August 9, 2002 Share Posted August 9, 2002 juneriver, i dont think illiteracy has ever killed anyone. ignance has!! another thing my parents are very disppointed in their dumb son, all that college and i still can't type. thank gad i am my own supervisor!!! i'll let them know you think so as well! would you be interested in helping my friends and family particpate in an intervention for my in ability and complete refusal to use a spell checker!!! reading you retalitory post only proves all my statements correct. usually works that way. i dont bark at dags that bit harder. woof! take my posts the way you want them. p.s. i am still waiting for some thing dumb and dangerous to occur with myself. 10 years is along time to wait you know!!?? and again please keep the kissing to yourself. i am flatterd in sorts, but disgusted in others. be safe and have fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted August 9, 2002 Share Posted August 9, 2002 iain, like whatever dude. i am fat, so i generate all the speed i need with or without the autoblock. then again you are sar, so you know!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted August 9, 2002 Share Posted August 9, 2002 nah dude, mtn rescue gets choppered around everywhere, no one does any work if JP4 isn't involved . Didn't you see The Lambone Incident™ ? autoblock or no autoblock, whatever works for ya. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juneriver Posted August 9, 2002 Share Posted August 9, 2002 The illiterate remark has nothing to do with your spelling. Though it could, but I don't care how you spell. It was because the thread is about stupid mistakes.. and you come in expecting "safe" stories. "reading you retalitory post only proves all my statements correct" This makes no sense... it proves nothing except that you want to take a jab at me and look like a good guy for it. Whatever Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted August 9, 2002 Share Posted August 9, 2002 dfa, autoblock is a prusik or peice of cord which you wrap around the rope below the belay device and attach it to your harness(leg loop). it increases friction on the rope. it is a good thing to practice. if you get hit by ice or rock and get knocked unconsciouses then you wont lose control of your rap and die. you can also use it to stop raps and use both hands to free up stuck ropes or to feed the rope as your rap(as in the case of high winds) only makes sense to me....but then again who am i to help someone else out not making the same mistake twice. hope that helps!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juneriver Posted August 9, 2002 Share Posted August 9, 2002 By the way... I still don't use an autoblock. Safe or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 9, 2002 Share Posted August 9, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Terminal Gravity: quote:Originally posted by iain: quote:Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: Isn't threading the rope directly through webbing a commonly regarded no-no? I don't see any problem with it if you are just doing a single rappel. It also spares you the task of threading the rope through a ring (you can just tie the webbing over the midpoint). I've done it plenty of times. It's those stupid punks who lower in that setup who get themselves killed. Anyone disagree w/ me? I absolutely agree with you. WTF? Sure there will be more friction, but if that is not a problem so what!? The webbing may not be suitable for the next team after you pull through, though.bounce test all webbing and if it doesnt break it will hold you. only reason to leave a ring or quick link is thatit makes pulling rope down esier..less friction.. PS IM IN SQUAMISH_ will send a new route in 15 minutes...have fun at work y'all...chestbeater icon goes here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted August 9, 2002 Share Posted August 9, 2002 Erik, thanks for the flame-free info. The Doctor will remember that next time he's rapelling someplace dodgy. DFA just needs to remember how to rappel ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted August 9, 2002 Share Posted August 9, 2002 okay okay okay....i got one!!! one time i skipped work(oops mistake #1) and went to index to do some cranking with my homeboy wallstein. the weather was kinda sketched(oops mistake #2) but we went anyways, specially consdering i hadn't climbed in like 2 days(oops mistake #3). so we went up on zilla/2nd pitch/sloe chillins trio. i was leading up the sloe chillins and it started to rain!! doh! well needless to say i have to aid the crack to the top and the worst mistake i had made......i forgot my rain jacket....so i got wet. bummer dude.....i now know better....i always bring my rain jacket when the weather looks bad!!! knock on wood! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle_Tricky Posted August 9, 2002 Share Posted August 9, 2002 DFA, is it standard practice to lower off through the anchors at Smith? Do you usually run it through the links or your own draws when top roping? Do people ever rap instead of lowering to save wear on the anchor? Just curious about your take on local etiquette. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted August 9, 2002 Share Posted August 9, 2002 I was tought that it was bad to lower off the links. there for I ALWAYS RAP after I take down my anchor. even when I rack the hell out of my knees to do it. BAD DFA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted August 9, 2002 Share Posted August 9, 2002 judging by some of the links in the dihedrals I say tons of people lower on them, but I would think most consider that uncool. there's a bunch of new people climbing there who would be freaked by changing over to rap while hanging on the bolts. but then they have to at least know how to rethread the rope.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted August 9, 2002 Share Posted August 9, 2002 The Doctor personally always topropes through his own draws, but will lower off the links or whatever when he's done with a route. He actually keeps meaning to start bringing some quick links with him in case he encounters badly worked anchors. At any rate, with the crowds at Smith, people seem more keen on just lowering and getting off a route quickly rather than rapping and saving wear on the links. And of course on steep routes, cleaning them on rappel is much harder, so the lower/tram option is key. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plexus Posted August 9, 2002 Share Posted August 9, 2002 Worst thing done and said. SAID: Looking at 5.11d, "It doesn't look that bad." DONE: Listening to partner's encouragement and tried to lead it. Got four bolts up and had no more skin on fingers or knees. Leading climbs above my ability, I've lost more biners that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted August 9, 2002 Share Posted August 9, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: The Doctor personally always topropes through his own draws, but will lower off the links or whatever when he's done with a route. He actually keeps meaning to start bringing some quick links with him in case he encounters badly worked anchors. At any rate, with the crowds at Smith, people seem more keen on just lowering and getting off a route quickly rather than rapping and saving wear on the links. And of course on steep routes, cleaning them on rappel is much harder, so the lower/tram option is key. Does that meen then that we can hold you personaly responable for replacing all worn out links due to lowering when you SHOULD be rapping??? it isn't that hard and is fun tooo! enven if you have to clean on your way down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Attitude Posted August 9, 2002 Share Posted August 9, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: OK, friends. Who wants to remind the Doctor of what an autoblock is? (We get lowered off of sport routes.) I do! I do! Shoot, someone beat me to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 10, 2002 Share Posted August 10, 2002 Stupidist thing I ever said/did climbing: Heh I bet i can free solo down from Intersection Rock (J Tree) after the new years summit keg party!!! Second stupidist: taking "proud chemicals" and going spelunking under Gateway Rock, at night, without headlamps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted August 10, 2002 Share Posted August 10, 2002 I once belayed a partner up with a figure 8 using it like an atc at Beacon Rock. The only problem was that I used the big opening. Of all people a Mazama guy griped me out right there at the belay and told me I shouldn't be on this route. I knew I was wrong but from that day on I hated Mazamas for the holier than thou attitude that dude had. We ended up doing a harder climb that he did and my partner didn't fall so all was ok. Trials of a newbie. Oops. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryland_moore Posted August 10, 2002 Share Posted August 10, 2002 Was with a partner at Foster Falls in TN and he was just ready to start climbing. The he climb followed a nice arrete, but the first bolt (yaeh it was sport) was about 5 ft. above this ledge and the ledge was about 40 ft. off the ground. The belay spot sucked and there were no anchors. I tied a sling to a tree with a biner and was going to clip it into the back of my harness. Well, my partner started to climb as I was setting up the anchor, and I turned around to see him doing the first few moves to the first bolt. I quickly put him on belay and reached around behind me to clip into my harness. Well, he fell above the second bolt and so I braced to catch the fall, but when his weight came to me I felt something break on my harness and I started getting pulled to the lip of the ledge as my partner continued to fall. Finally, I was able to stop the fall and my hand got caught in the belay device (piece of skin b/w thumb and forefinger). Turns out that what I had clipped into was not the anchor webbing on the back of my harness, but a little piece of plastic theat held my leg straps in the back! Many lessons learned that day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted August 10, 2002 Share Posted August 10, 2002 You people are all sketch. I'm never climbing with any of you unsafe wankers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted August 10, 2002 Share Posted August 10, 2002 The stupidist thing I ever did was start posting on CC.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted August 10, 2002 Share Posted August 10, 2002 Toss off, Textard. [ 08-09-2002, 12:52 PM: Message edited by: Dr Flash Amazing ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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