Oregon peak suggestions

[Jim]

I'm off for some field work in Mt. Hood NF next week and then have a week to roam in Oregon. I'm looking for suggestions for some Oregon peaks, I've only done rock in Oregon. The wife is along so moderate routes would be helpful, rock up to 5.7. Not inclined to do a volcano march. Thanks.

[mattp]

quote:

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Originally posted by Jim:

I'm looking for suggestions for some Oregon peaks ... Not inclined to do a volcano march. Thanks.

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I'm not sure what to make of this. If you are looking for peaks in the Oregon Cascades, they are all volcano's, and I did not sense from your post that you were considering the Wallowas. If you mean you want to avoid a crowd scene, avoid the south side of Hood or the south side of South Sister. If it is the "march" part of the volcano march that you don't like, try some of the smaller ones like Three Fingered Jack or Mt. Washington (both have a sort bit of technical climbing near the top, with great exposure and exciting summits, but don't expect good rock). If you want to minimize the scree and talus, consider Middle Sister via Hayden Glacier (I believe Jefferson Park glacier and Sunshine route on the Hood might also be good for this.

[iain]

If you're looking for summits on rock, here's some options down by Santiam Pass:

 

Some moderate stuff:

Mt. Washington, North Ridge (5.1)

Three Fingered Jack (5.1) easy, fun climbing!

 

Some more-involved stuff:

Mt. Washington, West Face (5.6, exposed 4th class) some loose pro on the first pitch, avoid if anyone above you.

Mt. Washington, West Ridge (5.7/5.8, exposed 4th class)

 

Snow stuff (these are a bit of a march though):

Sunshine, Mt. Hood

Jeff Park G/Russell G., Mt. Jefferson (share a 5.1 traverse and pinnacle after some glacier)

[Geek_the_Greek]

Sunshine route on Hood is kind of "out" for the season. I was up there last weekend. Bergschrund (~9500 ft.) looks steep and technical and shitty (much harder than it would be in June, anyway). (Not really sure if this is a bergschrund or just a steep crevasse; guidebook says 'schrund, but I thought that was the term for the bottom end "ice cliff" on a glacier, which this ain't.)

Cooper spur might be a bit better, but also disappeared higher up (so loose rock might be a big deal).

[Dr_Flash_Amazing]

The summit of Monkey Face at Smith Rock State Park can be reached via the enjoyable 5.7 A0 (or is a bolt ladder A1?) Pioneer Route. At approximately 300 feet in height, it is one of Oregon's most noble summits. It is pretty fun, though, especially if you're a sport climber.

[Dru]

A0 covers bolt ladders, hang dogging, chipped holds, artificial holds, French Free, stick clipping.... in short, pretty much all sport climbing is A0!!!

[Jim]

Thanks Ian, that's a good list of options. And Dr Flash - I've climbed at Smith but haven't done Monkey Face yet - another good one.

[Dr_Flash_Amazing]

Dru, you are truly the most hilarious internet denizen with whom the Doctor has ever crossed paths.

 

A0 is neither.

[texplorer]

You better bring the stick clip if your doing the Monkey face via the A0 route. I pulled one of the bolts out about a month ago as I aided past it. Quite exhilarating to look down and see the bolt you were just standing on just pull right out when you have 20 ft of runnout! Whoever put those fat bolts in? It's a great route, now maybe an A0 with a hook move.

[rbw1966]

Doesn't a hook move bring it up to an ass-clenching A1?

 

Don't forget to check out Beacon Rock if you want minimal approach and some very nice trad climbing from 5.6 on up. Also, there is French's Dome (to be avoided on the weekends) for sport, Pete's Pile, Lambertson Butte (chossy) and Horsethief Butte for some bouldering fun.

 

Have fun

[bobinc]

They aren't peaks, but some of the spires in The Menagerie (near North Santiam River, east of Sweet Home) are fun and get you up to some good views. Don't know if they are described in detail anywhere other than Nick Dodge's old (early 70s) Climbing Guide to Oregon. William Sullivan's Guide to Wild Areas of Oregon has some mention of them plus discusses non-volcano peaks elsewhere in the state (mostly NE Oregon -- Blues/Wallowas/Eagle Cap).

[iain]

That would be the South Santiam River. I've tooled around in the wilderness a bit but have not climbed anything there yet. Cool stuff.

[iain]

I think the Baumans made some diagrams of the Menagerie (one of them was the primary force behind the wilderness designation). I'll see if I can get it and post it as a PDF or something here.

[bobinc]

Oops -- bad geography. I always seem to mix up the N and S Santiam. Thanks for the backup, Iain.

 

We climbed Hen and Chicken Rocks years ago and friends have done the Turkey Monster (which is much more of an undertaking). Pretty good rock, for the most part.

 

Good, cheap camping at Fernview Campground near there; nice spots to hang at near the river after a day on the crags.

[gapertimmy]

Don't forget about tumalo

[jkrueger]

I have some recent info on Menagerie. If you're interested, send me a PM and I can arrange to have it delivered to you via top secret courier snaffles...

[nolanr]

I just did Three Fingered Jack, I don't know why everybody keeps saying it's rotten rock. I didn't have any holds break off on me. Most everything I gave a test wiggle or slap was solid. I think all the rotten stuff has already come off and is laying around the base of the mountain in choss piles. I did an interesting route, approached from east (Canyon Creek Meadow) up to a high saddle, then a not very fun traverse across scree slopes to gain the ridge where the climbers trail is at, above the PCT. Topped out, then dropped down to the PCT, followed it north to a different saddle, dropped back down to upper Canyon Creek Meadow, and down the trail. So I went completely around the mountain in addition to climbing it. It should be fine by now, but there was a repaving project going on around Santiam Pass that had the PCT trailhead access snarled up.

[whodgman]

Try Mt. Jefferson, Jefferson Park Glacier. You will have a beautiful camp in the basin, a great mixed alpine ascent with glacier, moderate/exposed ridge, a summit pyramid and wilderness to yourselves. Highly recommended.