[TR] Mount Stuart- North Ridge 7/24/2004

[mr.radon]

Climb: Mount Stuart-North Ridge

 

Date of Climb: 7/24/2004

 

Trip Report:

7-26-04

After thoughts:

Wow, is all I can say now that I have had two days to think back and reflect on this climb. Something about having a chance to forget about the bugs, the scree descent, the oppressive heat, the back pack straps rubbing through raw skin, the crushed toe aching with every step. Now I remember the airy views, the tranquility, the sound of my breath as I contemplate the next move, the rustling of the gear as I adjust my stance, the feel of my pulse as my heart pumps forcefully. This climb is the reason I climb.

 

7-23-04, Friday

Jdog and I have always wanted another chance at the North Ridge of Mount Stuart. Back in 2002 we tried the whole ridge; Lower & Upper. We ended up with an epic retreat, our tails well between our legs. We received a nice lesson from mother nature and learned that small signs should be headed. Never will I bivy on a ledge while watching interesting and ominous cloud formations without getting scared out of my mind. Those neat clouds that looked so interesting I took pictures of them, neat and peaceful was mother nature's subtle warning to "Get Out" as one popular movie put so well.

Two years was about enough time to get our wits back, or better yet let us forget what caused our wits to run away. We still wanted to complete the climb. We were not going to throw ourselves on the lower ridge since we completed it, but this time we were going to start were we left off, climb to the notch and finish the rest of the North Ridge climb. Also, last time we debated doing the Gendarme variation. This time Jdog was confident he could lead the two pitches.

We debated the ever debated issue, to bivy or not to bivy. Weight is an issue on the hike in and the climb. Who wants a thirty pound pack while doing a 5.9 lie-back crack climb? The heavy pack will slow you down and it will then take for sure two days. To do it in one day you have to leave early. If you run into problems you will have to bivy, however, without any bivy gear. Hum... We decide to play it by ear. I bring the stuff to bivy two ropes and all my rock climbing gear.

By 2PM I swear the clock is moving slower and slower. I’m nervously anxious for the climb. At 3PM Jdog meets me in the Kenworth parking lot, he’s going to park his car there while we climb.

We go through the gear. We decide to bring my 9mm 50M rope, not the 8mm 60M rope. (last time we had a 60M 10mm climbing rope & a 9mm 50M rope for hauling) We leave most of my large cams in the car, Jdog is bringing his big Black Diamond cams. They have a larger range then my Metolius Cams. I bring about 8 quick draws, my gear sling, a set of nuts and there are about 10 slings between the two of us. Jdog throws a few quick draws in too.

For an emergency I have brought my down jacket and gloves. For food I've got some gummy rings (peach), GU, cereal bars and 32oz of cool aide and 32oz of Gatorade.

We pile into the car and drive the North Bend where I gas up and we get some food at Safeway. I get a pound of Rainier cherries and breakfast stuff since I didn't bring any. From there the drive over the pass is uneventful. In Cle Elum we stop off to have dinner at a local diner. We both order spaghetti.

We get to the trailhead for Ingalls Lake/Peak around 8:30, the sun has still to set. There aren’t as many cars as I had expected. The bugs are pretty thick and I decide to sleep in the car. I didn't bring the screen mesh for my bivy. Jdog finds a spot in the brush next to the out house. I quickly fall asleep but wake up several hours later covered in sweat. I'm worried to lower the windows since doing so would let the mosquitoes in. Later in the night a diesel pick-up truck comes rumbling by waking me again.

 

7-25-04, Saturday

I wake 15 minutes before my alarm goes off. I look at the stars and wonder. They are so bright out here and so wonderful. My alarm goes off at the same time Jdog pounds his fist on the side of the car. He had moved his bivy next to the car sometime during the night.

I put on my head lamp, get dressed, then eat, then pack. In the process I forget to attach my camera to my backpack. This I didn't realize till it was much too late. We divide the rope and gear equally, sign the trail register, and head up the trail at 1:55 AM. Jdog sets a blistering pace for the first 1/4 mile. I'm thinking this is not good. However, he slows a little, we even out keeping the pace brisk. I had kept on my pullover which now made me way too hot. I stop to pull it off and throw it on my pack and have to catch up with Jdog again. About a mile later I notice there is no camera strapped to my back pack. Crap! I really hope it's inside the pack, if not inside the car.

The air is still warm from yesterday. The rocks still radiate heat from yesterday. A foreboding of things in store for us today, we just know it’ll be another scorching hot day. Surprisingly we make Ingalls Pass by 3:10, only 1:15! Pretty good, just prior to the pass we disturb a couple of people sleeping in Bivy bags alongside the trail. We rest just a minute or so before we continue to Ingalls lake.

At the lake we hit some patches of snow, and Jdog is convinced the lake level is higher then before, he’s convinced parts of the trail is under the water. I don't think so. We work our way through the rocks and find the trail across the ridge to Stuart Pass. I didn't want to stay high on the ridge because that was not the way to go last time. The top of the ridge is hard to follow and drops 300' of elevation on you anyway. I follow a faint trial down the side that then traverses, exiting at the tree line and the base of the trail to Stuart Pass. I like this way much better in the dark. Jdog is a total tool, his headlamp is again going dim on him. He didn’t bring a charged battery! Luckily for him the sun is finally up enough that we can stop using the head lamp. Jdog is going to have problems if we have to use them again, his is just about dead.

By 5AM we make Stuart Pass. The trail steeply winds 200' down the back side. You then enter a scree field with extra large boulders to access a gully leading directly to Goat pass; no goats though. The bugs are horrible here. I try to speed up but the bugs are just everywhere. On top of Goat pass there are two people camped in the bivy sites there. We head down the back side of Goat pass a little way and take a long break. I have to pull out my pull over again to protect myself from the bugs. How evil these things are. Looking at Jdog I can just see them flying around behind him in a dark cloud.

I get some snow for my water bottle. This should keep it cool and refreshing for the trip. I head down to the Stuart glacier, loosing about 250' of elevation once more. At its base I strap my crampon’s onto my tennis shoes. We've also brought along ice tools for the crossing. My left crampon doesn't stay on very long, its like a dangerous flip flop. The prussic cord I used to tie it on keeps it from totally falling off. Not very safe. I don’t notice any recent foot prints, maybe no one is at the notch? This would be great.

The base of the notch looks very formidable, it looks darn steep. The snow leading to the notch seems firm, last time there was a big step to get on and off the snow. There is even snow in the gully. Jdog leads the way up the snow field, I have to follow in his footsteps since I can't kick step. We cross dirt/scree and then snow again, finally ending up on solid dry rock. The last 150' to the notch is a wonderful fourth class scramble.

We make the bivy's at the notch right at 7AM. Great time to this spot. We take a long break and talk about the climb. We eat a little get into our climbing harnesses and watch the sun rise fully from the East. To the North there is a fire, but there isn't much visible smoke to see; instead the sky is vibrant with color, a deep orange tint, merging with the dark blue of sunrise.

Enough with goofing off. I take the first lead. Since the pitches to the Gendarme from here are all low fifth class we will simo-climb. I tie into both ends of the rope, Jdog ties into the middle. I take the rack (all the gear) put everything in my backpack, throw it on; ugh its heavy. And I launch myself up the rock around 8:15. Aggressively, I head up, but soon see I've goofed, the ridge drops off and I have to descend back to it. I protect the down climb for Jdog as much as I can and belay him to me. Reminder: if you see a rappel anchor it probably means there is a down climb or you're off route.

After that I make good time knocking off the first 5 pitches before I have to take a break on a nice flat section shaded from the sun. I’ve got to get my rock climbing shoes off! I also need more gear. So far the climbing has been pretty easy and straight forward. The entire time you’re scampering along this wonderfully small ridge. At one point I had come to a sharp fin, as I grabbed the top of the fin and ascended its steep side I peered over it’s crest; the other side dropped straight back to the Stuart glacier. The view is fabulous.

Jdog takes the lead here, he grabs the gear and shoots off. Once again the climbing is moderate, there is a short crack section that is fun and soon we are crossing over to the Gendarme. I was worried about the ridge crossing to the Gendarme. It wasn’t bad at all. All the photos make it out to be very exposed, nothing to it at all. I also didn't think we'd get there this quickly, its only 10:50. The Gendarme looks mean and big. It casts a big shadow, the crux moves luckily being in the shade. I immediately take my shoes off again, my big toes are killing me.

Jdog looks over the first 80' 5.9 layback crack climb, the first of two crux pitches. He heads up keeping his back pack on. On this pitch there are three places you can rest relatively safely. After getting up the first two, Jdog decides to take off his back pack and leave it behind, he clips it to a cam attached to the wall.

At the top of this pillar he makes himself safe and I get ready to climb. I tie myself in short to the rope. I trail about 20' of slack. On the way up my pack is trying to pull me over. The pitch is wonderful. there is great placement for your feet, great hand holds and the rock is dry,

At Jdog's pack I tie the end of the rope to it and top out next the Jdog and pull his pack up behind me. I had heard of this pillar but didn't expect it to be so small! Jdog is sitting down, I'm standing up and behind him I throw his pack. Jdog makes me safe and I just stand there, not wanting to look off the rear of this pillar nor the right side of it. I know both views might cause me to mess myself. We're pretty high up at this point. I look at the pillar where it attaches to the Gendarme. There’s a large 5" crack! The whole pillar is ready to come down! I'm now standing on top of what I’m convinced is currently the most unstable rock on this massif. Jdog has made a belay anchor with three pieces of pro. We do a little dance on the small pillar as we swap gear and he gets ready for what I see as a short but hairy, crazy, exposed and tuff 5.9 off width. Somehow Jdog has to traverse out 15 or 20' and then start up this off width crack for about 40'. I sit down and put him on belay. I can see right away this is as hard as it looks. I've never seen Jdog's leg jack hammer so hard just trying to put in the first piece on the traverse. If this wasn't so serious I would think it funny. But don't get me wrong, there is no way you could force me out on the sharp end of the rope. Jdog is doing this or it’s not getting done.

I'm relieved to see him get a firm grip in the crack. He goes back to make sure the first piece is in, it would be a nasty swing into the pillar without it. He had clipped a quick draw in the anchor just as he left the pillar, I undo this now that he has his first piece securely installed. At the off width he moves up and tries to place the large cam we've carried all this way just for this purpose. However, it seems he just can't get it placed right. His legs start to jackhammer again, worse then before. Any more and the pillar will detach from seismic damage. Up and down he goes in the off width. Finally he drops back down again and places a small cam in a tight crack running perpendicular to the vertical off width. He apologizes for being too slow, but hell I don't care. He has to get this done or we're rappelling back down? Can't do that either.

Finally he stops playing games and commits to the move. After he reaches the stuck cam he motors on up to the belay nook with confidence. I swallow hard as he says he is safe. He pulls up slack and then lowers the end of the rope. I knot the rope to his pack which he hauls up and then my pack. His belay perch is right above where I am sitting. I don’t even have to move to grab the rope.

Now I have to collect my whit’s. I just saw a guy that is a better climber have a nightmare of a time on this crack. I know there is a huge drop off below this pitch; looking down might physic me out. I take apart the anchore and get ready to follow Jdog’s lead. I find the traverse pretty easy and get into the crack. Here I have a bit of trouble getting the small cam out. It is really wedged in there. I have to step up, jam my right arm into the crack while fiddling with the cam. Finally it comes out. However, inside the off width I felt at about the height of the stuck cam was a small finger crack. I jam my right fingers into this crack, lie back, move my feet high and push upwards. With my left hand I make a fist and insert it into the off width above the big cam. I'm solid, I can't believe I'm through the crux. I remove the cam and make my way up slowly. 30' up I grip a bomber hold and take the opportunity to look down. Wow! There is nothing but air below me till the Stuart glacier. I'm impressed. I tell Jdog I really like this view! The last move to the belay notch is spicy. Nothing to grab a hold of, just a delicate face move up to slap high fives with Jdog. We read the route description again and again. I'm convinced I read there were three 5.9 pitches on this route. I re-read again it sounds like there are two different ways to continue.

1) around the right corner, a 5.6 exposed move.

2) up and over a simple 5.8 crack.

I move to the left and like the crack I see. Then I go back to the right. I look down at the swing I'd take if I fall off this ledge. I swallow and look again. There is no way I am even going to try that move. I can see no hand hold what so ever! 5.6 my arse....

I head over and commit to the crack system above us. Doesn’t look that dirty, someone has climbed it. The start is a committing move. I make a bad gear placement in a flaking crack. After the start the crack eases off and soon I'm placing gear with confidence. At the top my heart sinks. I've got to down climb a crack! I try to set gear to keep the rope from dragging up and over the edge as I down climb. A few feet below I get a nut in to protect Jdog’s descent.

Rope drag makes me stop and belay Jdog to me. Jdog doesn't like the down climb (nor did I). We both can see that around the corner, the route we opted not to take, was a nice big hand hold. Now that I know it is there I'd still climb the crack!

Jdog takes the lead from here. We simo climb. He stops at the short headwall and belays me to him. The last little slot I have to ascend to get to his belay station is narrow. Somehow I dislodge a flat book shaped rock. Wham, right on my left big toe. The same one that I hit with the pressure washer earlier in the week. That incident had cut it up and lifted the toe nail on me. This rock wedged on top of my foot, I could not reach down to pick it off, nor could I lift my left foot. I had to overcome the pain and wiggle my toes to get it to slide across my foot and into the empty space behind me. Two or three times the rock bounced across the toe and finally off my foot. By this time I could have just cried like a baby, instead I was pissed. Both feet were killing me and I want to get out of my rock shoes. I doubted that if I took them off I could have the pain tolerance to get my left foot back into my shoe!

Jdog asked if I was alright and I said, "There’s nothing I can do about it." I grabbed the rack after looking at the next crack system. This one is mentioned to go at 5.8 but l also read this was rated at 5.9. I head up to start and it looks decent. However, halfway up I'm the one doing seismic damage to the rock and crying for my mommy. I yard on two pieces, not caring at this point to climb it totally clean. At one point I find a small flake on the left. I move my right hand but miss the hold, I start arcing backwards and in desperation throw the right hand back into the crack. I manage to snag some feature in the crack and pull myself up to the wall again. I know I'm getting pumped and can't place pro here, I just go for it. I top out into a body width sized crack panting rapidly totally flooded with adrenaline. 5.8 my arse! I quickly set up a belay and get Jdog past this section who agrees this is the hardest 5.8 ever. From here it’s only a short walk to the summit. We top out at 3:00PM not bad. I drop the pack and pull out the tennis shoes. I cry out as I pull the rock shoes off my feet. Both big toes feel like they've been repeatedly hit with a hammer.

I put on socks and my nice fitting tennis shoes. Soon I'm feeling much better. Jdog pulls out some rolls, lunch meat, and pepper jack cheese. What a bud. I share a few gummy circles and a few slugs of Gatorade. We're still doing okay with water, and the sun has been in the clouds for most of the climb. It isn't that hot. We wolf down the sandwiches and pack up our climbing gear. Pretty much dividing the gear as before. I get the rope and the two biggest cams. Jdog gets the rest of the rack.

At the true summit I look down to two climbers heading up the West Ridge. They look about 400' from the summit. I yell down, they say they are the first party on route today with four more far behind. Not bad beating the West Ridge people.

Jdog in the mean time is signing the summit register. I also sign it below his name. I write my name into it too. I feel great! The summit has some very nice views of the surrounding area. Unlike most peaks this one is very pointy and very exposed. I really enjoy hanging out on it's summit crest. However, the descent is well known to me and Jdog. We’re not looking forward to having our bodies tortured in that way just yet.

Shortly before 4PM we pack up our gear. I drink the last of my cool-aide and pour the Gatorade into my nalgean bottle. I hope to get water soon. I brought only sweet drinks with me, I crave plain cold water!

As before the descent is tricky. Hope to hit the right trail this time. We descend the never ending scree gully, knees getting a pounding, arms getting a pounding, hands getting rubbed raw by grabbing rocks, slipping on rocks, avoiding snow, turning around to down climb boulders, all around torture.

A quarter of the way down the couloir the sun came out. Now in addition to the hellish terrain the temperature is made to fit. To perfect Dante’s Inferno we add a heaping of miserable biting black flies which started to feast on our exposed skin. They would bite leaving blood running from the wound and fly away. I tried my best to keep the things off of me. Every time we took a break, about once an hour, I would kill dozens of these mean bugs. I'd have to keep my sleeves rolled down and collar up just to protect myself. In turn I sweated a gallon with every step. Jdog eventually found some water, I drank and drank.

Nearing the end of the couloir I found a side trail heading directly to the woods. I didn't want to stay in the gully much longer so I headed off to the right. I quickly found the grass to be just as bad. The humidity was high in the vegetation, combined with the heat and flies I was miserable.

It soon became obvious we were following a game trail. Foot prints were in the soil but I'm sure they were as pissed as we were that this trail suckered them into the woods too. No map, no compass, just a faint animal trail wander in the woods. The trail wasn't even nice, but slanted, sandy, meandering and just unpleasant. Multiple times we came to dense vegetation and just scratched our heads. We eventually found the main trail and debated which direction to go. It did look familiar and I headed left (west). I found a trail marker I had seen that same marker last time we were out here. Jdog remembered and eventually jogged my memory as to the correct path to take. We finally hit the trail to Long's Pass. The base of the trail is around 4,800' and Longs Pass is at 6,300'; we still had a long way to go to get out.

Mainteance on this trail seems to have been stopped about 10 years ago. Many old snags have blocked the trail and a large log is used to cross over a creek. The trail wanders and isn't marked very well. At several points it splits to re-merge again further down the path. Half way to the pass we run into the first people all day, two hikers heading in. They confirm we are still on the correct path. By now I just want to get to the car and rest. 15 hours of straight climbing with little sleep is starting to take a toll on me. My packs straps are really digging into my shoulders, they have never hurt like this before. I just concentrate on the steps in front of me, put my head down and walk. Every so often Jdog and I will make some comment, but pretty much we are left to our own thoughts.

Finally breaking out of the clearing we can see the top of Long's Pass. Once again we are in the full sunshine. Hot, fly bitten, dehydrated, sweaty, and sore we crest the pass. We know full well that there is still a long meandering descent trail to the parking lot, but it’s all downhill from here. I take one last look at Mount Stuart and promise myself that the next time I come back it'll be for a darn good reason.

As last time the descent is maddingly slow. The trail barely descends at all, many shorts cuts have been made by past frustrated climbers. Jdog and I give in to temptation and start to cut the trail in some spots. I normally am loathed to do this but I've had it with this trail. At long last we make it to the main Ingalls Lake trail. From here on out we are quiet. Heads down we are pretty much just reflecting about the climb and out accomplishment. I'm still energized by the feat. However, my shoulders, legs, arms, hands, and especially the feet are rebelling. I also keep thinking, "How in the heck did I do the Wonderland Trail?"

The sound of the campground creek gets louder and louder. Soon I can see the car and salvation. 8:45 we hit the trailhead. Total time on trail 18 hours and 50 minutes!

We stop off at Dairy Queen to get some drinks and then drive back to the Kenworth parking lot dropping off Jdog and then home, shower and bed.

 

 

Gear Notes:

Headlamp, (LED)

Crampons

Tennis Shoes

Climbing Shoes

Heavy Wool Socks

Polypro Top

Polypro Bottom

Shorts

Wool Hat

Wool Gloves

Food

(2) 32oz Water Bottles

Full Set of Cams

Set of Nuts

Quick Draws

(2) Locking Carabineers

Daisy Chain

(10) Slings

Belay Device (basket)

Cleaning Tool

Climbing Harness

Chalk Bag

50m Rope – 9mm

Backpack

Ice Tool

Down Jacket

Pile Pull Over

Helmet

Sunglasses

Watch

[ryland_moore]

Was the ice tool necessary this time of year for either the glacier crossing or descent down Cascadian?

[Ryan]

Great TR! Good job on overcoming anxieties that had been there from the previous climb- that type of thing can often be the crux of a climb. Keep it up!

[mr.radon]

Ice tool was to cross the Stuart glacier. I took a pole last time. I would not have been able to stop had I fallen.

Ice tool was lighter and smaller then full ice axe.

The descent: all snow can and should be avoided. Easy non-technical just long and dusty.

[mvs]

Nice TR! We also found that last 5.8/9 pitch interesting! I think I festooned the crack with gear every 3 feet. We forgot gloves, so in the approach gully I pulled my sweater sleeves over my fingers where they touched the snow. We didn't see the summit register, I'm bummed to have missed a fun read. What an amazing climb...

[cracked]

Nice TR, and nice job on the climb. However, the Gendarme offwidth is not 5 inches; it was too small for me to get fist jams.

 

Wassup, Jdog?

[erez]

Reading your TR, I was happy to hear the large fixed cam is still stuck...Me and my partner are debating on what size rack to bring. We were hoping to bring nothing bigger than a number 3 camalot since the fixed piece is there on the offwidth section...is this smart? also, what size rack did you bring--doubles for cams's?? extra nuts or hexes as a substitute for larger cams's? etc... Thanks.

[larrythellama]

You don't need a very large rack for this climb. It is not sustained. I think we brought about 5 nuts and 3 cams and 10 shoulder lengths and that was more then adequate for simul climbing the entire ridge.

[ivan]

#3 camalot is barely big enough to deal w/ the offwidth gendarme pitch, but will suffice. a 3.5 would be better.

[larrythellama]

#11 hex!!!!!!!!!!!

[Dru]

wooden wedge

[goatboy]

Reading your TR, I was happy to hear the large fixed cam is still stuck...Me and my partner are debating on what size rack to bring. We were hoping to bring nothing bigger than a number 3 camalot since the fixed piece is there on the offwidth section...is this smart? also, what size rack did you bring--doubles for cams's?? extra nuts or hexes as a substitute for larger cams's? etc... Thanks.

 

Hey Erez,

 

My experience with the large fixed cam (a #4, I believe) is that it is useful to "french free" off of but has no remaining sling to clip into as pro -- so you'd have to finagle something to clip into it, or sling it as if it were a chockstone -- which is pretty funky, given the position and the location and the situation.

 

I suggest a 3.5 camalot or two for the offwidth.

[chucK]

Bring a damn quicklink to leave on the fixed cam and do everybody a favor.

[dbb]

You know the holes in the lobes of a #4 are big enough to clip in to....

[eric8]

I clipped the sling of the 3.5 about a month ago.

 

and a number 4 forged friend works perfect

[Lambone]

wooden wedge

 

totaly, like these ones!

 

 

sorry, I can't read your TR, it's too long for my attention span...

[Tim_Riordon]

Like your TR. Great Detail. Is there any place to pump water as you traverse from Goat Pass to the notch going up to the ridge?

[mr.radon]

Pleanty of places to top off on water. It was hot so I put snow in my water bottle, had cool water at every break.

On the large off width, there is a small finger crack running about waist high. I did a lie-back off of it stood high and put in a fist jam up higher. The crack narrows down. I got through pretty quick. I think we cliped the stuck cam but didn't leave any gear.

Anyone hear of the rescue on Stuart a few hours ago?

[alipneH]

Great TR! Climbed it about a year ago w/two friends and you brought back a cluster of good memories... thanks. Good job on the time as well.