007_dup1 Posted July 28, 2004 Author Posted July 28, 2004 I can appreciate all the responses this post has generated. Perhaps my next post should be titled "Pay to Climb". Anyways, i do have a little experience with climbing but am not here too proove that. The intentions of this post (8k trip buddies) are to get partners together for a low-budget 8000 meter climb. I love climbing the cascade peaks and believe this range is excellent conditioning for big 8k summits. Is there a specific training path to follow that leads to 8k peaks? Not really, and good capable climbers are right here in the cascades! Please send a private msg to me like others who have been interested and we will start to organize our 8000 meter trip. A dream becomes reality when it is acted upon. thank you. Quote
007_dup1 Posted July 28, 2004 Author Posted July 28, 2004 Bob i can appreciate your interest, it keeps this post alive. Yes i agree with you, common sense and good judgement always prevail. Â Relax and just consider what the post is acheiving. Â It is bringing together climbers that know how to climb (say class 3 and higher) and have always wanted to do an 8000m peak. There is no other objective on this post. Cascadeclimbers is the best site i know to post such an interesting trip. Quote
007_dup1 Posted July 28, 2004 Author Posted July 28, 2004 thanx for your concern Choss Dawg. Ignorance about travelling to the opposite side of the world can be difficult. Â To a local climber, going on climbing trips to far away places can be associated with a hard climb. Although a hard climb, Mt. Everest is mostly a class II and did you know it's lower altitudes are climbed practically everyday. It is wrong for these "Pay to Climb" companies to capitalize on fears of foriegn places. Your favorite "Pay to Climb" company won't do your laundry and if they do they'll overcharge you. (it is only .25 USD per load in Katmandu) Don't belive in "someday" and that you'll pick this perfect company to take you up to the top of some peak, it will never happen or you will have spent your life savings. Make it happen today, which doesn't mean going about it w/o good judgement. Quote
RobBob Posted July 28, 2004 Posted July 28, 2004 I've just wanted to see what this troller's game is. Kind of strange that it took till the middle of page 2 for people to call Bullshit. Â My take on it is that he's getting a dollar every time he posts the phrase "8k peak." Quote
fenderfour Posted July 28, 2004 Posted July 28, 2004 This is my favoritest troll ever. If it isn't a troll (rememebr snugtop?), it's my favoritest online dumbass ever. Quote
RobBob Posted July 28, 2004 Posted July 28, 2004 Hello, do you enjoy climbing the cascade jewels? I like hearing that and it makes sense coming in from Seattle. Thanks for your training suggestion. As for the 8K'er, the power of a few great climbers can make this reality. That sounds like good practise, do you know the speed record of such a tour? Mountains are to be climbed, whether they are volcanos or something else! I believe all you need is a few great climbers! I can appreciate all the responses this post has generated. Quote
Ricardo_Montalban Posted July 28, 2004 Posted July 28, 2004 DUMBASS, DUMBASS!!!! I vote for Dumbass! Â Hey 007, write up TR when you get back! I wanna hear all about how easy it was for you! Quote
oregonbob Posted July 28, 2004 Posted July 28, 2004 There's plenty of people out there like 007 with big egos, a lack of experience and bad judgement - that's a deadly combination. Quote
willstrickland Posted July 28, 2004 Posted July 28, 2004 I have a wonderful idea. You should go to the closest REI, and climb their 20m wall 400 times. That would be a really cheap 8000m trip and you wouldn't have to pay more than...ohh five or six bus fares. If you have a bike, you could even ride there and save more money. Â "BTW, are you a member of REI?" Quote
Lambone Posted July 28, 2004 Posted July 28, 2004 I think you guys are being a little hard on 007....even if he is just trolling. Â He does have a good point. That signing up with a big guiding service is not the only way to go climb a big peak in Nepal or otherwise....it is just the easiest way. Â In reality these big companies are really just middle men between the clients and the Nepalese. The rake in a huge profit off it that doesn't allways carry over to those who do the most physical work and take the most risk...the Sherpas. Â However, 007's view is clearly overly simplistic and idealistic. Once you have been to Nepal once and been a part of organizing the logistics for a big expedition, you realize that pretty quickly. Sure...a "few good climbers" can do it, but it takes alot more then just being a good climber, you also have to be a good negotiator, good managing small details, very patient, and that nack for making things happen. Not all good climbers posses this skill (myself included). Â Anyway....nothing wrong with dreaming that you can make it happen, although it is kind of silly to post a thread about it here.... Â My free advice to 007 is (if you haven't yet) to go try a treking peak over there first and see how it goes....then start dreaming about something bigger....when you have a better idea what is all involved. Quote
oregonbob Posted July 28, 2004 Posted July 28, 2004 007: You said you love climbing the cascade peaks and believe this range is excellent conditioning for big 8k summits. How would you know this if you have never climbed? So does this mean you have climbed peaks like Mt. SI and Tiger mountain? Or, have you done peaks like Goode, and JoBerg? Quote
John Frieh Posted July 28, 2004 Posted July 28, 2004 I smell mid life crisis.  007: spend the trip money on a sports car… you’ll live longer. Quote
007_dup1 Posted July 29, 2004 Author Posted July 29, 2004 Thanx Lambone for your response, i can tell you've been around the block (world) a few times. Yes i agree the proposition i posted is simplistic and the 8000m trip will be too. Â Cascadeclimbers is the perfect site for seeking good capable climbers right here in the cascades! I know there are people on this site that have the experience to climb an 8000m peak and prefer to do this in a small low-budget group. I will ensure you that planning this trip will use sound judgement and there will be no discrimination what-so-ever. The interview will be hikes to the top of our beautiful Cascade peaks. Are you up for this? There will be no using the excuse of a personal injury while on one of these summit hikes (that is part of the test if you are capable or not). For those up for the challenge please send a private msg to me for further information. Â Update: Climbers have shown interest and we are starting to organize some of the suggestions of our 8000 meter trip. Quote
007_dup1 Posted July 29, 2004 Author Posted July 29, 2004 No mid-life crisis here, i would much rather spend my money on an 8000m adventure filled with memories of a far away place than to go buy some materialistic sports car. Travelling the world is the best deal out there! Quote
RobBob Posted July 29, 2004 Posted July 29, 2004 Climbers have shown interest and we are starting to organize  Yes, grandson, there I was 40 years ago in 2005, making the approach to Cho Oyu with my longtime climbing buddies Pierce, Sirrus, and Peter. We were well-prepared for the expedition, having practiced for days on the Cascade jewels! Quote
007_dup1 Posted August 2, 2004 Author Posted August 2, 2004 I think i will be posting a new discussion on the pros and cons of "Pay for Climbing" There seems to be a lot of commercial companies these days defining what a person has to do to climb an 8,000m peak. i.e. a person must have climbed Denali or Aconcagua before he or she qualifies for an 8k. This is absolutely not the case and has been proven! I would wager to say 75% of climbers do not pay to climb. Â One of the best things to enjoy about climbing (group or personal) is that this sport has no rules and nobody telling you how to climb. The risk is all yours, the choices you make can give you built-in safety or the wrong choices can kill you. This responsibility is with you, nobody else. Â So RobBob, we don't all climb like you but please accept other people's strategies on how to get to the top! Quote
007_dup1 Posted August 2, 2004 Author Posted August 2, 2004 **********Update: Cho Oyu looks like our choice peak that everyone wants. Our training in the Cascades will be sufficient, Cho Oyu has one of the lowest park-user-fees, and will only cut a month out of everyone's busy daily grind! The Chinese NW mapped route is very accessible with 1 class 3 "snow-step". Â Our trip itinerary will go something like this: We will rendevous in Kathmandu with our personal packs and luggage. This is where we will take care of business matters with the Chinese Embassy, hiring our personal sherpas, renting group equipment, then bus to Zhangmu, Tibet one week later. Â From Zhangmu we will hire a driver to take us through Nyalam and Tingri to the Chinese Base Camp. We will hike to the advanced base camp, hike to camp 1 at 6200 metres, hike the mapped route to Camp 2 at 6700 metres, put on our crampons and hike the mapped route to camp 3 at 7400 metres. Summit attempt will be within 3 weeks from arriving if the weather is good. Final packing, walking down from advanced base camp to Chinese base, driving to Tingri and to Kathmandu will be done in a celebratory manner the last week. THAT IS HOW YOU MAKE AN 8000m HAPPEN! Â Thanx for everyone's response! (even the trip-doubters are appreciated as it flagged some concerns) Further communication will be via personal emails. Again, it is amazing what people unknowingly have to offer to meet this 8000 meter goal. To all climbers: may you meet your dreams! Quote
pete_a Posted August 2, 2004 Posted August 2, 2004 another discussion? one troll just isn't enough for you 007? Â " The risk is all yours" "This responsibility is with you, nobody else. " bullshit...you can prepare all you want and make all the right decisions and can still be up shit creek in a hurry by the bad choices of other nearby climbers. example- ill equiped climbers on big mountains that end up needing to be taken care of by better equipped teams...the better equipped folks burn through all their supplies babysitting some hypothermic, starving idiot, and when the weather breaks they must descend rather than climb cause they are out of food and fuel. Â by the way, you're misspelling the mountain you're going to climb...its Cho Oyu, not Cho Oye... Quote
007_dup1 Posted August 2, 2004 Author Posted August 2, 2004 This is a special thanks to CascadeClimbers.com for providing a place setup great climbing trips! The Cascades, in my book, are the best mountains out there! There is a little of everything here. There's the Eiger experience on peaks like Johanesburg, the Mckinely experience on Mt Baker, altitude training on Rainier, the B.F.E. experience on Glacier and Eldorado, and so on. What a wonderful site! Quote
Alpinfox Posted August 2, 2004 Posted August 2, 2004 Â The "Mckinely" experience on Baker. That's rich. Â Good luck on Cho "Oye". Â Â Quote
ryland_moore Posted August 2, 2004 Posted August 2, 2004 Good luck on doing your trip in under a month! I wish you all the best. I think we shopuld start a betting pool. Bets could be made on whether or not they summit their cascades jewels test "hike", actually get a permit to climb Cho "Oye", make it to Nepal, and then figure out how to get to the base of Cho "Oye". With 007 as a leader, how could they possibly fail? Â I won't even take bets on summiting as I would feel really bad on capitalizing on a possible (likely) death or serious injury. Recreational Darwinism at its finest! Should provide us with free entertainment over the next year though. Â Kind of reminds me of the guy on Denali a few years ago who came up there to climb solo, had no glacier experience, and refused the park rangers warnings. Although he did decide to carry a 2 x 4, which he carried like a tight rope walker (parrallel to the crevasses). He never made it above 11k, but if he had fallen in, the plank would have never helped him even if he had carried it perpendicular to the crevasses as it had a middle breaking strength of 100 lbs. At 210lbs. with a full pack and sled, it would have been all over. Quote
griz Posted August 3, 2004 Posted August 3, 2004 (edited) can't resist troll...sparkling bait...must stop...MUUUSSSST....damn here it goes...i'm typing. shit... Â 007, dude, troll or not, your posts today were an endless source of amusement for me and some buds at work today. Mt. baker comparrison to Denali, Rainier for altitude training, home to home for Cho "Oye-Vey"in 30 days. Dude, priceless, creative stuff. Real plans or not... keep posting. Â R.M.- I'll take some action on the death thing if you are game...death by HAPE on day 15. He might have slipped into a coma a few days earlier but we gotta go with actual time of death. Edited August 3, 2004 by griz Quote
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