pnut Posted July 13, 2004 Posted July 13, 2004 I am looking for a quality long alpine rock route in Washington in the 5.8 to 5.10d range, other than N ridge of Stuart or Infinite Bliss on Mt Garfield. I am trying to think of a new goal for a long car-to-car climb. I don't care if the approach is long, but would prefer it not involve excessive unpleasant bushwacking or choss. (I know, I'm picky) Quote
JayB Posted July 13, 2004 Posted July 13, 2004 Not quite in Washington but there's the NE Buttress on Slesse. Grade V 5.9 - Not sure how many pitches but I think you'll get your 20 in for sure. Quote
Distel32 Posted July 13, 2004 Posted July 13, 2004 I think that slesse climb is 22 pitches...... Quote
ken4ord Posted July 13, 2004 Posted July 13, 2004 Bear Mountain has a climb on it listed in the Nelson Select that looks cool. Little under 20 pitches though. Â What about those clip up climbs in the Mazama area? Baring NF(?) looks like it would be quite long, I don't know about rock quality, wild roof traverse though up high. Quote
Dru Posted July 13, 2004 Posted July 13, 2004 NE butt of slesse is 30 pitches but only 16 of those pitches are 5th class and only about 12 commonly roped up for. Â on the other hand on the east face of slesse the nav wall, real mcKim and east buttress direct are all 5.10+ and about 15 to 20 pitches long. Quote
pnut Posted July 13, 2004 Author Posted July 13, 2004 Hmmm....How's the rock quality on the slesse routes you mentioned? Quote
specialed Posted July 13, 2004 Posted July 13, 2004 Alpine rock. Choss happens. Buy a copy of McClane's Alpine Select in B.C. and Northern Washington and you can plan all your 20+ pitch alpine wetdreams. Quote
Dru Posted July 13, 2004 Posted July 13, 2004 of course you could go climb pacemaker, 35 pitches of 5.10 A1 plus over a thousand feet of third and 4th class scrambling Quote
forrest_m Posted July 13, 2004 Posted July 13, 2004 Hmmm....How's the rock quality on the slesse routes you mentioned? Â east pillar TR Quote
cj001f Posted July 13, 2004 Posted July 13, 2004 20+ Pitch Routes w/o bushwacking or choss. Have you considered moving to California? Quote
Alex Posted July 13, 2004 Posted July 13, 2004 I don't care if the approach is long, but would prefer it not involve excessive unpleasant bushwacking or choss. (I know, I'm picky) Â second the California suggestion... Quote
Dru Posted July 13, 2004 Posted July 13, 2004 or you could go up the coast, visit mt. gilbert, klattasine ridge, mt. bute, mt. combatant, etc  hell there are unrepeated 30 pitch 5.8s on good ol' judge howay. bush though. the other ones have glaciers. Quote
Dru Posted July 13, 2004 Posted July 13, 2004 climb the first third of the 60 pitch SE ridge of Asperity Quote
pnut Posted July 13, 2004 Author Posted July 13, 2004 yep, 1st third of asperity looks like a go...is there a good walk off there Quote
Szyjakowski Posted July 13, 2004 Posted July 13, 2004 i have this topo hanging up in my office... Quote
glacier Posted July 14, 2004 Posted July 14, 2004 3 laps on Snow Creek Wall? Orbit-Outer Space-Hyperspace Quote
Bug Posted July 14, 2004 Posted July 14, 2004 Have you looked at the West face of Dragontail? Start at the very bottom of the point of rock by Colchuck and pick a route. Definately include the Fin. Mix and match the pitches from different routes. Or do one of the cracks going up Asgar. Quote
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