erez Posted June 16, 2004 Posted June 16, 2004 What are the classic must-do routes at Squamish 5.10D and lower, long routes prefered. Thanks! Quote
Dru Posted June 16, 2004 Posted June 16, 2004 north gully north-north arete crap crags to colon caramba crags echelon half moon chimney amphitheatre bastille third abortion petgill wall Quote
Greg_W Posted June 16, 2004 Posted June 16, 2004 What about Angel's Crest and Rock On? I know some don't consider AC a stellar, classic climb because there's some "hiking" in between pitches, but the location is unbeatable. Quote
Dru Posted June 16, 2004 Posted June 16, 2004 but those climbs are crowded, polished, greasy and wet whereas on the climbs i listed ou will enjoy great climbing without the tedium of passing other parties. i forgot koyaanisqatsi though. Quote
matt_warfield Posted June 16, 2004 Posted June 16, 2004 Cruel Shoes to Split Pillar Apron Strings to Split Pillar Rock On to Squamish Buttress Angel's Crest Centerfold Upgrade to 11a and do Apron Strings to Grand Wall. It's worth getting better for! Quote
Indy_jones Posted June 16, 2004 Posted June 16, 2004 what about downgrading to 10a...? yeah I know I need to get out more...sigh... Quote
Stemalot Posted June 16, 2004 Posted June 16, 2004 Blazing Saddles First approach pitch - 5.8-9 Second (short) approach pitch - 5.8 but bit tricky First pitch - 5.10a Second pitch - 5.10b spectacular isolated and exposed setting This is a must do. Quote
Drederek Posted June 16, 2004 Posted June 16, 2004 The Split Pillar. Any way you get there is fine. Finish up the Grand while you're there. Godforsaken land is great too. Magic Carpet Ride. The 2nd and 3rd pitches are not much harder than the first. Quote
TimL Posted June 17, 2004 Posted June 17, 2004 At Penny Lane there is a couple super good 10d/11a finger cracks. I think they are Climb and Punishment 10d and Partners in Crime 11a. Quote
Dru Posted June 17, 2004 Posted June 17, 2004 north gully north-north arete crap crags to colon caramba crags echelon half moon chimney amphitheatre bastille third abortion petgill wall ok there seem to be a lot of gullible people out there who do not realize this is a list of vertical, devils' club infested talus heaps! stop pm'ing me with requests for details on these "secret classics" Quote
dberdinka Posted June 17, 2004 Posted June 17, 2004 In some sense great multipitch 5.10 climbs are concentrated in a few distinct areas. I would not miss climbing at.... The Squaw 5-7 pitch climbs almost all in the 5.10b to 5.10d range Birds of Prey 10b God Forsaken Land 10d Great Game 10d Haven't done it but hear it's excellent The Solarium Remote, quiet area with some beautiful routes Sun Blessed 4-pitch 10b **** One of the best Several other worthy routes as well Base of the Grand Wall Apron Strings 2p 10b Classic, tenuous laybacking Cruel Shoes 6p 10d Excellent low angle face climbing Pheasants Route 5p 10b Fun Milk Run 3p 10c Burly!!! Split Pillar 10b Must do! Shannon Falls & Papoose Local-Boys-do-Good 3p 10d slab Don't miss this one! Centerfold 3p 10b Incredibly varied climbing Papoose 1 5p 10b Neglected but Excellent The Apron 5.10 climbs on the Apron tend to have sparse pro where as 5.11s tend to be well bolted. Go figure Unfinished Symphony 5.11b or 10d+A0 **** Another of the best climbs in Squamish. Pro can be challenging. White Lightning 10c Excellent, old-school, run-out friction climbing Furry Kitten Wall This is way up in a drainage behind Squamish. I got rained off one route here but the climbing we did was excellent, good gritty granite with nice crack systems. If you're there in the middle of summer check it out otherwise it could be damp. While you're there I would highly recommend doing Star Check up in Cheakumus Canyon (best position of any route in the area) and go cragging at Seal Cove as well (Slab climbing directly over Howe sound). Quote
Bill_Simpkins Posted June 17, 2004 Posted June 17, 2004 I second Seal Cove. Sole Mate. Don't get your rope wet! Quote
fern Posted June 18, 2004 Posted June 18, 2004 I give to Rock On and Godforsaken Land as "classics". Dirty greasy munge Quote
Dru Posted June 18, 2004 Posted June 18, 2004 hey fern did you finally do rock on then? rock on Quote
fern Posted June 18, 2004 Posted June 18, 2004 Ya last night. I remembered my shoes this time. I should have also brought a scrub brush, propane torch, and a towel. choss heap. Quote
snoboy Posted June 18, 2004 Posted June 18, 2004 Heh, it dries out later in the year, and the more traffic it sees the better it gets I guess. When I have done it it was fun and dry. Quote
Stemalot Posted June 18, 2004 Posted June 18, 2004 (edited) Propane torch! Weak...The mini waterfall on that climb never bothered me besides it's a good challenge! Rock On is an aweson climb! Edited June 18, 2004 by Stemalot Quote
fern Posted June 18, 2004 Posted June 18, 2004 propane torch to burn off the greasy spooge left on all the holds from the hordes of gapers conned into thinking it's a route worth doing. It's getting plenty of traffic already - 4 parties last night! Quote
erez Posted June 29, 2004 Author Posted June 29, 2004 dberdinka and/or anyone else, Can you give me info on the approach to solarium, specificaly sunblessed? Thanks Quote
Dru Posted June 29, 2004 Posted June 29, 2004 hike up the trail to the third summit and fork right out of the gully at the only place you can. there is flagging. Quote
dberdinka Posted June 29, 2004 Posted June 29, 2004 It's always hard to find the first time and the second and the....basically follow Dru's directions. You need to go pretty high in the third summit gully before breaking out of it. trail is pretty darn obvious so don't get suckered out of the gully to low. Quote
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