AaronB Posted June 15, 2004 Posted June 15, 2004 My middle finger through a bolt hanger Sounds like a good way to lose that finger! Better than losing my ass. "It was on a Slab climb... Would've been a looooong skid down" I did the big finger dive for a bolt hanger. Quote
Bronco Posted June 15, 2004 Posted June 15, 2004 Big folding buck knife (see opening scene of Vertical Limit). Quote
scott_harpell Posted June 16, 2004 Posted June 16, 2004 All at the same time? What kinda crags do you go to? Quote
eric8 Posted June 16, 2004 Posted June 16, 2004 Red and yellow Camalots. The yellow in particular makes me feel all warm and fuzzy. Â I thought you said you have never taken a fall on gear? So how have they saved your as then. Â My biggest fall was on a number 3 friend Quote
eric8 Posted June 16, 2004 Posted June 16, 2004 My red shirt and brown pants. Â Â thought your teeth did a good job of saving your ass Quote
catbirdseat Posted June 16, 2004 Posted June 16, 2004 BD Hex #6- Vantage, Smileys Stopper #7- Castle Rock, Yellow Alien - Exit 32 Quote
MysticNacho Posted June 16, 2004 Posted June 16, 2004 BD Hex #6- Vantage, Smileys Stopper #7- Castle Rock, Yellow Alien - Exit 32 Â Where do you put a yellow alien at exit 32? Quote
catbirdseat Posted June 16, 2004 Posted June 16, 2004 There is a 5.9 thin crack that Wayne1112 talked me into leading. I borrowed some small stuff off of mattp. It's a good thing I did. Quote
Fejas Posted June 16, 2004 Posted June 16, 2004 30 ft up or so, had placed 2 #2 BD stoppers, last one bout 8ft below. Liken covering the top of a bulg caused me to slide right off. I've never not trusted my little peices since.... Quote
boatskiclimbsail Posted June 16, 2004 Posted June 16, 2004 A bunch of nuts and micros, the occasional cam, and I think just about all the hexes, lol. Maybe that's because I don't really place anything else. Can't help it. Hexes are sexy. Quote
willstrickland Posted June 16, 2004 Posted June 16, 2004 Model 1911 .45, and #6 stopper. Â All at the same time? What kinda crags do you go to? Â Rocky Butte Quote
geordie Posted June 17, 2004 Posted June 17, 2004 boot axe belay - thanks Keith  and usually - a tight belay, from a bold partner who actually led the damn thing. Quote
ken4ord Posted June 17, 2004 Posted June 17, 2004 What piece has saved your ass? Â I feel saved eveytime I have a piece of ass. Quote
thrutch Posted June 17, 2004 Posted June 17, 2004 A spoon. I think that if a person placces any piece properly that it will save ones ass. I wonder if for some people who favor a certain size just have a hard time at that particular size of crack? Quote
TimL Posted June 17, 2004 Posted June 17, 2004 Trojans - you know how the story goes  Purple 0 TCU - first time I ever fell on a piece of gear, Angel Crack.  Blue 1 TCU - can't tell you how many times I've taken wingers on this piece.  # 3 HB offset cut down a huge solo aiding fall down to a managable fall   Seems like if it a piece bigger than a orange TCU, then there is no reason to fall Quote
ashw_justin Posted June 17, 2004 Posted June 17, 2004 I have yet to have my ass saved by a trad placement. My snowboard has saved me from a couple of imminent disasters, although it's what got me in those situations in the first place. Â It's kind of disturbing that you guys place the smallest BD stoppers (#1,2) on lead considering that they pretty much tell you that they simply can't hold a fall. Â Has anybody ever fallen on a makeshfit webbing "stopper" or a loose rock slung and used as a chock? Quote
TimL Posted June 17, 2004 Posted June 17, 2004 no, but I've placed a make shift webing stopper on a stupid mixed climb that I thought was entirely bolted. I think it would of worked. Quote
willstrickland Posted June 17, 2004 Posted June 17, 2004 Has anybody ever fallen on a makeshfit webbing "stopper" or a loose rock slung and used as a chock? Â Never fallen on them, but I have rapped off both. Quote
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