Dr_Crash Posted June 9, 2004 Posted June 9, 2004 I am looking for recommendations for mountaineering boots (besides the obvious that I need to try them and they need to fit). I'm looking for boots for 3-season mountaineering around the area mostly (I ski lift-served all the time in winter). What kind of shoes would be good for that? I do need and want to be able to slog in snow (glacier travel comes to mind) for example, and I want to be able to do a rock summit too. A friend told me "something like the La Sportiva Trango S because it's very lightweight" but it is not waterproof. Would that be an issue? I can also find boots that are water-proof in France (but indicated not for winter) for a similar price but they weigh 5 lbs. Any recommendations? Things to look for / be aware of? Pointers to Web sites with sales are good too (I am an 8 1/2 US). Thanks! drC Quote
Stephen_Ramsey Posted June 9, 2004 Posted June 9, 2004 (edited) Trango S are pretty good, but watch out, they seem to run a bit small. I'm not sure if the Trango S would qualify as "3-season", though. I use them mostly in summer and early fall, then switch to plastics during winter & spring. The Trango S can slog in the snow, up to a certain point. But once the exterior wets out, it won't insulate very well. Thus, it would not be my boot of choice for the Cascade volcanoes, except perhaps in late season. Then again, the gear sages at Rock & Ice recently suggested the Trango S would be a good boot for climbing Liberty Ridge. Edited June 9, 2004 by Stephen_Ramsey Quote
Bronco Posted June 9, 2004 Posted June 9, 2004 Try to avoid buying your boots over the web unless you tried on the boots locally. I'd recomend a full leather boot with a pretty stiff shank. If you're going with synthetic, I'd recomend a going with a goretex liner but you still need a stiff shank. I really like my Scarpa Matterhorn's for mountaineering but, they're not made anymore. Any of the full leather, rigid shank boots made by Scarpa, La Sportiva, Garmont, Vasque, Technica or Richle(sp?) are going to treat you good, you just need to get the one that fits the best. Plan on trying on around 10 different boots, eliminate the 7 that fit worst and make a decision from there. Quote
JoshK Posted June 9, 2004 Posted June 9, 2004 Then again, the gear sages at Rock & Ice recently suggested the Trango S would be a good boot for climbing Liberty Ridge. The gear sages at R&I are quite stupid then. You could certainly do it, but I think any sane person would want a little more of a waterproof and warm boot. They are basically a very stiff light hiker. Not what I would persnoally want for 12k on rainer. Quote
UW_climber Posted June 9, 2004 Posted June 9, 2004 I use the Trango S & love them. I just did Stuart in them & they felt great. The only time they got wet was when I crossed a stream & my whole boot went under, but other than that they were fine. Plus they are super lightweight, feels like wearing running shoes. Quote
Pandora Posted June 9, 2004 Posted June 9, 2004 All I know about the Trango S is that when CascadeClimber wore them on a trip to the Sisters, he ran me and my plastics into the ground Quote
fern Posted June 9, 2004 Posted June 9, 2004 is there something similar to a Trango S that still has a front welt for clippy crampons? Quote
wormfighter6 Posted June 9, 2004 Posted June 9, 2004 I have really enjoyed my Boreal Super Latooks they are Leather and I have been to the top of Rainier several times w/ them and have done other peaks like dragon tail also. Just need to water proof them. They might be a little heavy but they never seemed to bother me at all. Quote
JoshK Posted June 10, 2004 Posted June 10, 2004 Trango extreme s. Yup. I have a pair of the exreme Ss and just the regular Ss. The Extreme S is a better glacier mountaineering boot. The regular S rocks for approaches, alpine rock, etc. I'm really happy with it. Quote
JasonG Posted June 10, 2004 Posted June 10, 2004 FWIW I have worn out a pair of the Trango S's in under one year of weekend warrioring. In my opinion the boots are about as durable as a pair of running shoes. I've worn the soles flat and blown out the Aramid (sp??) sides . .. I'm not happy that La Sportiva will not warranty them saying "I've used them for too much". I work full time, (not in the mountains as a guide or anything, and I didn't use these boots for work) and don't think a mountaineering boot (even a lightweight one) should wear so quickly! Anyone had good experiences with the Kayland Multi-Traction?? Quote
pc Posted June 12, 2004 Posted June 12, 2004 Look at the Garmont Tower. As light as the La Sportiva but made with a G-Tex liner. Super comfy and durable. Go to garmontusa.com. Quote
Dr_Crash Posted June 28, 2004 Author Posted June 28, 2004 I ended up with a pair of Millet Alti GTX (general moutaineering boots). They're not as light as the Trango S (they weigh 1.8 kg, ~ 4 pounds) but they're waterproof and durable (a store I went to said they stopped selling the Trango because of too many returns). They only have a 1/2 steel shank, like the Trango, which I hope is okay on the kind of slopes I'll encounter around here with crampons. I also considered the Makalu but got the cheaper Millet, though I now realize I have had Telemark Pyrenees ship the Makalus to my house in France for a price difference of just 8 Euros . I hope I won't regret that (the Makalu fit me a bit better because they had 1/2 sizes and their FR 42.5 was great for my narrow ankles; the Millet I have is a US 10 / FR 43.3 and I wear a US 8.5 / FR 42 in street shoes; my heel lifts a bit on a slope in the Millet---didn't try the Makalu on a slope). I can't wait to try the boots, maybe a short Tiger cable line hike on my way to work. drC Quote
Tantalus Posted June 28, 2004 Posted June 28, 2004 The trango S is good but in terms of glacier travel, they are not water prof nor water resistant. I know a guy that has cimbed rainier in them but he's a sick man. You may want to consider a pair of Freney pro's or the newer XT's. The freney pro's a little lighter that the Xy's 3 pounds 15 oz, compared to the Xt's that are 4 lbs 1 oz. I've also heard that after several uses the sythetic fibres on the trango s started to frey. One boot that i'm looking at as well is the Cumbre 4 lbs 14 oz, a little more insolated for the colder conditons but not a winter boot per say . Quote
Plinko Posted June 28, 2004 Posted June 28, 2004 Like Heinrich, I've had wear issues with the Trango S. For 3-season hiking/climbing I'd stay with something soft, and unless you plan to be on snow all the time, I'd avoid goretex...sure it's waterproof and all, but it doesn't breathe so well in a boot. One of my favourite boots has been the Montrail Morraine...lasted longer than most, and did Rainier half dozen times. The Montrail line fits my foot better than most La Sportiva boots, but tha's just me and obviously everyone's gonna be different. Good luck shopping! Quote
Zoran Posted June 28, 2004 Posted June 28, 2004 (edited) Tantalus mentioned Freney Pro and they look very, very good. If you coming soon to Squamish or elsewere around Van, stop by MEC on Broadway and try them. http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_detail.jsp?FOLDER<>folder_id=710271&PRODUCT<>prd_id=739911&bmUID=1088431973540 I am hunting for boots too. I am not sure yet, what will be the best for me for mountaineering. So far I had Raichle leather boots and after 4 years of heavy use they are falling apart. Edited June 28, 2004 by Zoran Quote
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