sexual_chocolate Posted June 4, 2004 Posted June 4, 2004 Anyone done this lately, or have any info on conditions? Specifically, wondering about snow in the couloir for the west ridge approach. Thanks. Quote
flyingkiwi1 Posted June 4, 2004 Posted June 4, 2004 Come on y'all; Someone's been up there. Couloir in decent shape? Help a newbie out here yo. Quote
John Frieh Posted June 4, 2004 Posted June 4, 2004 Start with the alpine lakes thread... you will find a few TRs (including one I was on) there. Quote
Lambone Posted June 4, 2004 Posted June 4, 2004 these kinds of questions are great and all, but it might be more appropriote to post them in the Alpine Lakes forum, or wherever they belong. That way people researching that area can find them easier. Just a suggestion... Quote
John Frieh Posted June 4, 2004 Posted June 4, 2004 Which couloir? Which approach? Which descent? If you want beta please be more specific. Quote
Gary_Yngve Posted June 4, 2004 Posted June 4, 2004 I haven't done the West Ridge, but my guess is conditions may completely change depending on what happens this weekend. I'd probably be more worried about what the upper ridge is like (snow/rime if it gets blasted by a storm?) than any of the couloirs. Quote
sexual_chocolate Posted June 5, 2004 Author Posted June 5, 2004 Which couloir? Which approach? Which descent? If you want beta please be more specific. Â the south couloir approach to the west ridge. Quote
Bug Posted June 5, 2004 Posted June 5, 2004 I was on Colchuck last weekend and there was still plenty of snow on the south side up high. Colchuck is a mile or so east and north of Stuart but Stuart gets a lot of the same kind of weather. Dragontail, Colchuck and Stuart's tops were all in the clouds most of the weekend. Expect some deep snow up high. Quote
eric8 Posted June 5, 2004 Posted June 5, 2004 I was in the enchantments last weekend and did the west ridge of prussik. The ridge proper was snow free but there was snow on the ledges on the north side. So I speculate that the west ridge of stuart should be okay but there may be some snow on a ledge or two Quote
Alpinfox Posted June 5, 2004 Posted June 5, 2004 This is Terry McClane's pic of W. Ridge Stuart from 5/8/04. They climbed the Stuart Glacier Coulior to the W. Ridge. Check the TR in the Alpine Lakes forum: Â Quote
Alpinfox Posted June 5, 2004 Posted June 5, 2004 Â I dunno, but it looks like he is getting ready to bail over to the south side of the W. ridge rather than going straight up (the manly way) Quote
John Frieh Posted June 5, 2004 Posted June 5, 2004 the manly way...  I love it when people associate "man" with the harder or more difficult way (and all the implications stemming from this)... good to know misogyny is still rampant. I wonder when "man" will become a synonym for stupid or arrogant…  In regards to the couloir approach; the sooner the better as the melt is on and with each day a few more rocks are poised to let entropy run its course. Once on the ridge you shouldn’t have too much of a problem with snow; there will be a few spots (nothing you can’t handle in tennies). PM me if you have specific questions or would like to see some photos for route finding purposes. J Quote
eric8 Posted June 5, 2004 Posted June 5, 2004 Specifically, wondering about snow in the couloir for the west ridge approach. Thanks. Â Aren't there a bunch of commonly couliors commonly used to approach the west ridge? Quote
John Frieh Posted June 7, 2004 Posted June 7, 2004 Aren't there a bunch of commonly couloirs commonly used to approach the west ridge? Â This depends on where you choose to get onto the route. I would recommend starting at goat pass; how you approach goat pass is up to you. Currently the Leavenworth side approach would be faster (and less up and down). Â Some people (you can see a few TRs in this forum on this option) will climb Stuart Couloir and then catch the last 5ish (depends on rope length) pitches to the summit. I don't know if SC is still in shape though... kinda getting late for that route. Â I know Mtnhigh and Terry McClain on this site have climbed the ridge in its entirety; you might want to pm them if you have specific questions. Â Beautiful route; beautiful mountain... enjoy! Quote
chucK Posted June 7, 2004 Posted June 7, 2004 I think you want to start at Stuart Pass, not Goat Pass. Goat Pass puts you on the NW Butt route. Quote
thrutch Posted June 7, 2004 Posted June 7, 2004 I prefered to take the direct route on the rock up from the pass, you climb over a few gendarmes and what not, but since I was there to climb and not walk around in snow(which general is the case) I found it quite enjoyable. Â Though from Ingalls lake follow the ridge at or close to the crest instead of dropping down into the basin below saves alot of wasted time. Quote
Dustin_B Posted June 7, 2004 Posted June 7, 2004 I'll post 4 pics of Stuart from Ingalls Pass area from this past Fri/Sat (June 4/5). The standard couloir up to the west ridge looked like lots of snow with a few broken sections. Probably lots of thin snow over slabs up there. We didn't get any closer to Stuart than Ingalls Pass though. First two are from Friday evening, second two are from Saturday morning/mid day. Quote
Alpine_Tom Posted June 9, 2004 Posted June 9, 2004 Dubya's 'Return to Greatness' - slated for November 9, 2004.... Â Is that when he returns to private life? Quote
MysticNacho Posted June 9, 2004 Posted June 9, 2004 Anyone done this lately, or have any info on conditions? Specifically, wondering about snow in the couloir for the west ridge approach. Thanks. Â I wasn't aware they allowed moon dancing up there this time of year. Quote
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