jja Posted May 24, 2004 Share Posted May 24, 2004 So the week started off promising enough, with a partner lined up and plans to do something alpine. Maybe forbidden, or something at the Pass or wine spires. As the week wore on the weather didn't look too promising. Well then we'll just shift gears to Leavenworth - the sunshine capital of WA state, with 300 days of the big yellow a year - or at least so says this place. By Friday the tentative plan was the South face of Prusik, with a back up of just finding some dry rock in the icicle if the long hike into the enchantments looked like it would be wasted effort. Well by Friday evening we decided to bail even on that. By Saturday mid day I've done all the running around errands I needed to do (even went into work - ughh!) and was itching to get out. So I decided to rescue the weekend by hiking up to colchuk and doing the NBC. Spent the night at the trailhead trying to get some sleep in my car. It rained all night, fairly hard at times. When the clock went off at 3:15, I shut it off and bailed on the idea of doing the NBC in what was either going to be heavy rain or snow, and decided instead on a leisurely hike up to the lake and the dog route up to the summit. So at 5:30 I leave the car, by 7:30 I'm at the lake sitting on a boulder taking this photo in the pouring rain. Hmm, don't even have the motivation to slog up the dog route. Heading back down to the car I find myself in a surprisingly good mood for some reason and start singing along to my mp3 player as I hike out in the downpour. Well one of my fav' don't-tell-anyone-I-actually-like-it songs is playing, and here I am doing my best american idol version of gwen stefanie: This world is forcing me To hold your hand 'Cause I'm just a girl, little ol' me Don't let me out of your sight I'm just a girl, all pretty and petite So don't let me have any rights Oh...I've had it up to here! So I come around a corner in the trail and there I find two day hikers laughing their ass off at the sight and sound of an idiot running down the trail in the rain singing, "I'm just a girl". Told them that I was glad that I could make their day, and started singing again as I continued past. Driving out of Leavenworth I run into Tim and Alex leaving the drip wall because it's too wet. ... I wonder how that conversation went: Alex: you know Tim, it's been raining all night and part of the morning. TimL: yeah I wonder where we could find some dry rock? Alex: hey I know, lets go climb at a place that has a natural flow of water, you know something that's an ice climb in the winter. TimL: Hey, let's go to the drip wall, that ought to be dry !! Spent the rest of the morning hanging out in town at the renaissance basement restaurant drinking coffee, eating greasy food, and telling climbing lies. Tim and Alex headed off in search of dry rock and I headed home. What a suck weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted May 24, 2004 Share Posted May 24, 2004 (edited) Fleblebleb and I had a surprisingly good day. Edited May 24, 2004 by cracked Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juan Posted May 24, 2004 Share Posted May 24, 2004 I have never seen the lake even close to melted at this time of year, or so much bare rock around the lake and on the lower moraine. I had the same realization two weeks ago at Mt. Hood. Maybe someone could pass this on to the administration in D.C. because I am sure there is nothing to this warming trend thing, just like they say. How about the incredible shrinking snow pack and glacial system. Anyone catch the article on Lake Powell a couple weeks back? Really great fucking news. John Sharp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted May 24, 2004 Share Posted May 24, 2004 Nice tr jja! You did better than me; I didn't even get out of town! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted May 24, 2004 Share Posted May 24, 2004 4.4 trillion gallons gone in four years?...anyone wanna buy some ice tools? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cj001f Posted May 24, 2004 Share Posted May 24, 2004 Anyone catch the article on Lake Powell a couple weeks back? Really great fucking news. Lake Foul as of 3 weeks ago - that's Hite Marina in upper left. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paco Posted May 24, 2004 Share Posted May 24, 2004 Great TR jja! Sorry you didn't get any climbing in, but it sounds like an interesting weekend none-the-less. Anyway, it was an entertaining read. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted May 24, 2004 Share Posted May 24, 2004 ha, ha; super tr! and that first pic is awesome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted May 24, 2004 Share Posted May 24, 2004 YOU GO, GIRL! Well, next weekend should more than make up for it, being an extra long one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted May 24, 2004 Share Posted May 24, 2004 I was serious about going back and dry tooling the routes on the Drip Wall. We thought it might be dry because its soooo overhanging.... Walked halfway up the trail to Clem's Hollar only to get rained out the second time that day. Got in the car, said "fuck it" started driving home. Noticed that Index was dry while driving past...flipped a bitch and landed at the Lower Town Wall parking lot. The GNS was a mob scene, so decided to climb Iron Horse. Got to the base two seconds before two aid climbers who promptly decided to circle the climb while we were racking up. You climbing that? You climbing that free? You still climbing that? ...Aid climbers are goofs. Racked up as dark clouds were building. Alex mentions, "dude, its just getting darker". Started up the climb. got to the first crux and the heavens opened up. Clipped an old binner onto the webbing, lowered off then ran for the car. Went home and sat on the couch. Watched th Soprano's which ended up being the most productive part of the day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric8 Posted May 24, 2004 Share Posted May 24, 2004 nice tr jja, mirror reflection of my week alpine plans whiched to wa pass whiched to a hike in the rain. Nice photo Cwacked almost wants to make me get some sticks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jja Posted May 24, 2004 Author Share Posted May 24, 2004 I was serious about going back and dry tooling the routes on the Drip Wall. We thought it might be dry because its soooo overhanging.... Walked halfway up the trail to Clem's Hollar only to get rained out the second time that day. Got in the car, said "fuck it" started driving home. Noticed that Index was dry while driving past...flipped a bitch and landed at the Lower Town Wall parking lot. The GNS was a mob scene, so decided to climb Iron Horse. Got to the base two seconds before two aid climbers who promptly decided to circle the climb while we were racking up. You climbing that? You climbing that free? You still climbing that? ...Aid climbers are goofs. Racked up as dark clouds were building. Alex mentions, "dude, its just getting darker". Started up the climb. got to the first crux and the heavens opened up. Clipped an old binner onto the webbing, lowered off then ran for the car. Went home and sat on the couch. Watched th Soprano's which ended up being the most productive part of the day. oh shit, that's too funny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted May 24, 2004 Share Posted May 24, 2004 We were at the Oasis at Tieton on Sunday. It showered a couple of times, but the rock dries very quickly. We ducked under a big overhang by a cave during the showers and stayed dry. Tried out a brand new sport route, The Fan, 5.8, on Jack O'Lantern Wall. It get's a thumbs up. Bring a 60 m rope Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_m Posted May 24, 2004 Share Posted May 24, 2004 I was serious about going back and dry tooling the routes on the Drip Wall. We thought it might be dry because its soooo overhanging.... Walked halfway up the trail to Clem's Hollar only to get rained out the second time that day. Got in the car, said "fuck it" started driving home. Noticed that Index was dry while driving past...flipped a bitch and landed at the Lower Town Wall parking lot. The GNS was a mob scene, so decided to climb Iron Horse. Got to the base two seconds before two aid climbers who promptly decided to circle the climb while we were racking up. You climbing that? You climbing that free? You still climbing that? ...Aid climbers are goofs. Racked up as dark clouds were building. Alex mentions, "dude, its just getting darker". Started up the climb. got to the first crux and the heavens opened up. Clipped an old binner onto the webbing, lowered off then ran for the car. Went home and sat on the couch. Watched th Soprano's which ended up being the most productive part of the day. Yep - After nixing Squamish because of partner malfunctions (read - I malfunctioned and could go!) The plan was index on sunday - but the weather looked iffy so last minute we changed to Lworth (Sunny glorious east side right?_ Nope - comming over Blewett pass is was just horrible. I'm not talking the light misty shit that seattle gets and everyone calls rain. I'm talking ACTUAL manly drops of rain like you get back east - things that require fast wiper settings to avoid rear ending the car in front of you. Needless to say - BAD. Drive through town and see a lot of climber looking types eating B-Fast in the various waffle establisments. Again, not good. Hmmm - what might me dry? Yep - same thought - Drip Wall because it over hangs and I'd stayed dry in a light rain (Misty Seattle Style) back in april. Making the hike up (almost took a slide into the road off the slick slab at the start - yeah, THAT'S a good sign) it's full on wet jungle. Get to the wall and it lives up to its name. Bah! Time to go. On the way back down I pass a party on the way up (TimL? no idea) with the same thoughts as me - wished em luck and we bailed. Back to the car - sunlight is showing back in icicle - heavenly looking we rush over there. Past the bakery, road looks dry, sun is shining. Sweet. Keep driving trying to scope the "driest" area. By 8 mile things turn bleak again so we pull the U turn and park in snow creek. Careno looks like the best chance. Racking in the parking lot - the sun is COOKING me - i mean full 70+ HOT feeling. Sweet I think - gonna be a good day. We get to the base around 11:30 (having rolled into town around 9! - bleh) Rack up below Bale/Kramar since it looks DRY. Right before we get on it - RAIN - not a lot but enough for me to curse several times and long for a good badminton match - ANYTHING that'll be dry and get my heart rate above 65! Wait - Wait - rain stops and sun is back! "Let's Go!" Next 3 pitches are dry and glorious. Mmmm Warm granite. The 3rd pitch crack gives me a little trouble (first real pitch of the day and man that sucker is barn-doory) Get it no problems once i get a placement and am finally smiling as my buddy cleans the pitch. Racking up he's scoping the 4th and heads off - Clips the first bolt and its starts raining AGAIN! "I'm going for it!" he yells, "There's no way were getting shut out of this" So off he goes as the rain continues, light but steady. I clean it climbing some seriously wet rock. Rap down and get ready to say f-it. But wait! Out come the sun to dry up all the rain. So we rap to the base of Nubbin Grubin and sure enough, it's dry. Climb on. We both got it clean on TR (Could've led it but we wanted to be able to bail fast if rain came again) Rapped to the base ready for more when.... Yep - skies open up - East Coast style. shove the gear in the packs and book-it back to the vehicle. Bah! That's it - Mc Ds is calling. We roll into L-town and grab some McNuggets while we dry out. Just as we throw out the trash and walk outside it clears up again! Beautiful and sunny. I've never had such a blue-balled climbing day! Sure enough - as we roll past North Bend on our way home - It's gloriously sunny and warm. What a perfect climbing day.... SOMETHING BETTER BE DRY NEXT WEEKEND! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted May 24, 2004 Share Posted May 24, 2004 matt_m, if you were with a girl, it was us. Otherwise, it wasnt. But everyone who headed up there knows the feeling of almost taking a digger onto route 2 from the moss-covered wet slabs! Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_m Posted May 24, 2004 Share Posted May 24, 2004 matt_m, if you were with a girl, it was us. Otherwise, it wasnt. But everyone who headed up there knows the feeling of almost taking a digger onto route 2 from the moss-covered wet slabs! Alex You in a white car? Not with a girl - but he's got long hair and it'll be great for mocking him when I see him next if it was you! I was in the green subaru... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moonrover Posted May 24, 2004 Share Posted May 24, 2004 Dude, I suffered from the terrible shrinking weekend too! At least you GOT outside! I was going to go up to L-worth this weekend and ended up bailing due to rain and increasingly terrible forecasts. The stupid thing is I waffled on everything for so long that I missed out on several alternate possibilities (like sailing w/some friends) - all decisions made were made TOO LATE!! It seems when I make plans alone I bail a lot faster than otherwise, which is just stupid. grrrrr I'm so frustrated w/myself. Fwiw, the weather in Seattle was spectacular on Sunday - and looking at random webcams it didn't look that way in the mountains, so I did get to enjoy some sunshine, albeit in the city. I hope to be appeased this weekend. If I get weathered "in" this time I'll go insane. Wait, I won't get weathered in, I'll be out IN the weather - no matter what it is! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CascadeClimber Posted May 24, 2004 Share Posted May 24, 2004 The haystack was lovely fun in a cold downpour at 6:00 PM Saturday. Props to the girl carrying her Baker pack and towing her Mom in training for her climb in two weeks. -L Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slaphappy Posted May 24, 2004 Share Posted May 24, 2004 Got in 6 pitches on Sat. (Yard Art, W. Face Peak-a-boo Tower, Snaakes, Animal Farm) before the consistent piss began. Saw lots of "climbers" wanderin around starin up shoulda just got busy instead of waitin to see if the rain was gonna stop, start again, or continue. As usual, lots of . Damn were there a lot of boaters around this weekend. Pope, was that you in Gustav's? Holy shiite does that Gwen Stefani do it for me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted May 24, 2004 Share Posted May 24, 2004 Spent the rest of the morning hanging out in town at the renaissance basement restaurant drinking coffee, eating greasy food, and telling climbing lies. If I remember correctly, we split a breakfast since after the Drip Wall I gorged all the food in my pack to eat away my "wish I was climbing" sorrows and you only had half because you just lookin out for your girlish figure? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted May 24, 2004 Share Posted May 24, 2004 Spent the rest of the morning hanging out in town at the renaissance basement restaurant drinking coffee, eating greasy food, and telling climbing lies. If I remember correctly, we split a breakfast after the Drip Wall since I gorged all the food in my pack to eat away my "wish I was climbing" sorrows and you only had half because you just lookin out for your girlish figure? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jja Posted May 24, 2004 Author Share Posted May 24, 2004 It's called artistic license. You know good prose just doesn't write itself. by the by, I'm gonna be at index tomorrow afternoon. After I get done with my project (is it ok to call a 5.9 a project?) you'd be more than welcome to ropegun me around the lower wall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted May 24, 2004 Share Posted May 24, 2004 I'll be there tomorrow working on one of many projects. Look for us. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted May 24, 2004 Share Posted May 24, 2004 Rain, pfah. From this picture representing the last several weekends, you'll notice that my weekend didn't much resemble climbing at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisT Posted May 24, 2004 Share Posted May 24, 2004 looking good Off. I see you're making some real progress on the house. Let me know when it's on the market. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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