hyperinflation

[glassgowkiss]

i was posting on the topic of easy grades at squamish, but ultimate everything is just out of control. i think fa party had to be completly stoned out of their friggn' minds to rate this thing like that. it's a 5.7 with a 5.9 or 10b finish. the route is nice, i don't dispute the fact. but for crying out loud stop this stupidity. if we use this system godzilla should be 11b, since it's much harder then any pitch on this route. that puts slow children into 12a category pathetic

[snoboy]

Isn't that what it was rated???

 

[layton]

bob was just trying to show how good of a climber he is by that last part of his statement...

 

Yes, Bob that route is a joke as grades go. a 4th class 5.7, a bolt on a flat surface... Not very ultimate or everything at all. Fun though and a good way to add to an el cap day.

The same party put up Millenium Falcon which is not sandbagged and kinda challenging so I hear.

[RyanTriplett]

Did you free the final A0 section of The Ultimate Nothing? If so, then it should be obvious that the move is easily harder than anything on Godzilla. As for the 5.9 part of the equation ... point taken. In response to Millenium Falcon - do it! A fun and moderately sustained route (7 of 14 pitches .10 or harder) with some wild friction above Bellygood ledge. It is possible to escape out on Bellygood and avoid the last 2 of the 3 .11a pitches, yet you would be missing out. All in all, effort was put forth in creating 2 moderate and reletively long free climbs so why bitch about grades?

[jdog]

All in all, effort was put forth in creating 2 moderate and reletively long free climbs so why bitch about grades?

 

Because this is Bob and this is what he does. Same hashed over argument, different day.

 

Bob why are you climbing such an easy route? For someone who is clearly such a gifted bad ass climber, who spends so much of his free time telling us how much we all suck you really shouldn't be wasting your time on such a trivial easy route.

 

Can I have your autograph now?

 

[EWolfe]

I think I have figured Bob out, here's my theory:

 

Bob is a LMP, (and a damn good one from what I hear) and thusly, spends all day rubbing people the right way.

 

(Can you see it coming? )

 

It would follow, then, with all of that right-rubbing, there must be some balance forthcoming.

 

And that, my fine-fingered friends, is why we all rub Bob the wrong way.

We balance him so he can continue his right-rubbing to those who need it.

 

Here it is proven:

 

 

[glassgowkiss]

All in all, effort was put forth in creating 2 moderate and reletively long free climbs so why bitch about grades?

 

Because this is Bob and this is what he does. Same hashed over argument, different day.

 

Bob why are you climbing such an easy route? For someone who is clearly such a gifted bad ass climber, who spends so much of his free time telling us how much we all suck you really shouldn't be wasting your time on such a trivial easy route.

 

Can I have your autograph now?

 

as u might notice grades should give u an idea how hard the route is. so thanks for wasting my time. when i go on something like ultimate nothing and the topo says several 5.9 pitches i would expect the route to put up a bit of fight. and don't give me this shitty argument that just because someone puts an effort to bolt some choss heap they have thwe same right to inflate the grade. . like i said- that route is out of control. and if i knew how hard this thing was in reality i would never bother going there last afternoon as at this point the training value of this thing was zilch

[RuMR]

bob...even if it said several 5.9 pitches would you really be getting a fitness deal out of it? My guess is no...so tirading about how you expected to get worked and then find out that the route is trivial is stupid...

 

FWIW, there may be some climbers out there that aspire to do this route! why harsh on their day?

 

Why don't you say if it was a good or bad route instead of griping about the grade? There are routes that are stiff for their grade and there are routes that are easy for their grade...its meaningless, and only a guide...

 

Now, the real question is: "Is it a good route?"

[lummox]

glasskowkiss. what is with the right arm wanking shot? btw when your dick turns blue it is time to let go. mmmkay?

[glassgowkiss]

rudy, to answer your question. go to index and get on some 5.9's. as far as milti- pitch routes get on stuff at wa pass or snow creek wall. so if the route has 11b rating i would expect to get a little workout. did hyperspace 2 weeks ago, guess what? u actually have to climb on 9's and 10's.

to finish my answer- if it was rated as 5.7 with short 10b sectioon- yest it would be a good route, if the rating is like it is - a complete let- down.

[Dru]

[Cairns]

that route (Ultimate Everything) is out of control. and if i knew how hard this thing was in reality i would never bother going there last afternoon as at this point the training value of this thing was zilch

 

BBBBob, thank you for bringing this dire situation to the attention of us all. Stupid out-of-control route holding hostage polite Canadian climbing area. But training value??? What were you thinking? Who is feeding you this disinformation? Are you training to become moderate?

 

Andy Cairns

[flyingkiwi1]

glasskowkiss, For f*ck's sake, man, get over yourself. 5.7, 5.9, who cares? Index grades are harder than Squamish grades. This is news to you? Gimme a break.

 

The Ultimate Everything is an enjoyable moderate climb, a good day out on sweet granite. You know what I remember about the moderate stuff? I remember a really cool dike that kind of reminded me of the first pitch of Merci Me. I have no idea whether it was rated 5.7, like the pitch of which it reminded me, or 5.8, or 5.9, or... But I'm glad some guys took the time to bolt it so others could climb it.

 

So, glasskowkiss, you burly guy, tell me, were you so pissed of by the time you got to the pitch with the optional offwidths that you climbed them instead of the 5.8 crack?