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Brad_CA

Rap'ing off a sling?

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from what i have heard no one has looked to see if the slung rock was still there only looked for the slings

 

That is correct. We thought about looking at slung rock several months after the accident, but I have no desire to return to location. Nor does my partner.

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If I remember correctly, about ten years ago a couple of climbers were rapping the last station off Mixup Pk. The rock horn broke --the sling held. The climber on rappel dropped straight down to the talus and was shook up, but his partner was standing by the anchor ...clipped into the sling. She was pulled off and fell pretty far. He thought he was bad off until he heard her moaning, and realized that maybe he wasn't so bad off after all. He gathered himself together, put her into a sleeping bag and went for help. The Navy littered her out the next morning on a long line. She survived but was long on the mend. A rappel anchor only has to hold your body weight, but when they fail it'll really ruin your day.

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"Never clip in to the rap anchor if there is any other possible way down... if no other way down, clip in, better to die quickly, then suffer"

 

Bastardization of a Twightism.

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American death triangle and just a sling! But when I am climbing with the better half.

 

I really don't think there needs to be more then a few pieces of webbing on any crag, last week in Leavenworth we probably took neer 50ft of tat, and then we placed it other places!

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What if the rope momentarily parted like those metal rings magicians use and then fused back together right after passing through the slings? You didn't happen to say "Abracadabra" or anything like that while rappelling did you?

 

hellno3d.gif

 

 

Quantum Physics is a bitch sometimes...

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Bootying a biner off a midpitch bail is one thing, but ripping off biners from established rap stations is lame thumbs_down.gif.

 

one time i got 4 locking biners and 2 spectra slings off orchard rock at peshastin. they were attached to a pair of rap rings yellaf.gif

 

 

I don't think anyone leaves carabiners on established raps.

 

Yes you CAN rap directly off of slings, but WHY? I used to do it occasionly while getting down in new territory, ie, burn a sling on a chockstone and rap: but since I have the money now and rarely get in new territory, I just burn a couple of biners if I hit a rapstation with slings only. Why not? Life is already too short.

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I always carry a little extra webbing and a few rings. They are cheap (cheaper than biners too), light, and I like climbing. If I die because I was too cheap to use a ring or replace some old webbing its pretty lame, and I can't climb anymore!

 

Hadn't seen it mentioned, but don't forget to throw a knot in the end of your rope, pretty sad to die by rapping off the end of your rope!

 

Just my two cents worth!

-Nate bigdrink.gif

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