Recommended routes in the Tetons

[MysticNacho]

Going to the tetons for two or three days. Never done anything in the range except for gape at it from the road. Anybody have any quality suggestions as to how I should spend my time? We're specifically looking at routes going up the Grand, none harder than 5.8.

[lummox]

petzoldt ridge.

full exum.

east ridge.

north face.

[chris_w]

The easiest routes are Owens-Spalding (5.3-4), Upper Exum (5.4-5) and then the full Exum (5.7). If the weather looks marginal then you can try the Owens-Spalding. It's something like 4 pitches but easy to get off of if the weather is bad. You do have to ascend a 2000 foot slope from the lower saddle to the upper saddle. Not that pleasing compared to the other routes.

 

The upper exum has more quality rock on it but once your on it you can't escape that easily. It's either keep going or descend the route. If your tired or not acclimatized, I'd suggest this route.

 

The full exam is probably the best and has the most climbing on it. After the first 4 pitches you can escape down the Upper Exum approach (Wall Street) if your tired or running out of time.

 

I have not done the East Ridge, North Face or Petzold ridges. The Petzold is similar to the Full Exum ridge. You just traverse over one more ridge from the Exum. Don't know about retreat on it.

 

East ridge is suppose to be good. You either have to carry over or after the climb you will need to ascend back up to get your stuff.

 

North face seems very committing and I think you will need to do a carry over. You will probably also need ice axe and maybe crampons for the approach. If you go to the lower saddle late in the summer, you don't need ice axe or crampons.

 

My suggestion: Day one - Hike to Lower saddle or the Morain campground. Day two - Hike to lower saddle and acclimatize on Mt. Moran. Day 3 - Full Exum and descend. Remember you will be rock climbing at 12-13000 feet.

 

Chris

[lummox]

and dont forget about dealing with the popularity of some routes. the exum sees a lot of guiding. but then again they usually get started at ungodly early hours. party on wayne.

[Mark_Husbands]

i climbed the direct (full exum) a few years back and thought it was great. has the advantage of being sunny and not requiring crampons/axes, unlike n. ridge, which i would really like to do.

[chris_w]

and dont forget about dealing with the popularity of some routes. the exum sees a lot of guiding. but then again they usually get started at ungodly early hours. party on wayne.

 

Yeah, The guiding party's usually leave around 3-4am. Usually go up the Owens-Spalding, Don't think there are too many on the Upper Exum, and don't think there would be many guided parties on the Full Exum.

[Rodchester]

petzoldt ridge.

full exum.

east ridge.

north face.

 

I like Lummux's picks. The OS actually involves VERY little actual climbing. Still all and all a fun experience, but the OS pales in comparison to the Exum.

 

The Esat Ridge is a complex route involving lots of fairly diffcult route finding and a widfe mix of climbing skills. It is also easy to get a permit for it, because nobody does it (at least in comparision to the Exum and OS). Be prepared for snow on the upper route (ice axe and crampons MAY be needed or at least wanted).

 

Another one to consider is the CMC Route on Mt. Moran. A much more remote less climbed (though still popular - you will not likely be alone) climb. It is somewhat involved and takes a little bit of route finding skills, but nothing hard. Rent a canoe and do it in two nights to really enjoy the scenery and the climb. An excellent fun alternative to the Grand crowds.

 

Have fun!!!

[Alasdair]

CMC route on Mt. Moran is a great route. I highly recomend this is you are looking to get away from the crowds of the grand. If you decide to do just the upper exum, or the owen spalding route on the grand then think about doing it car to car in a day. Go super light, and you will have no problem doing it in a day. Unless you decide to pitch class 4 rock then you will spend a cold night out, and it will suck. The lower saddle is a nasty place to stay, it smells like piss, and can be really windy.

[Alasdair]

CMC route on Mt. Moran is a great route. I highly recomend this is you are looking to get away from the crowds of the grand. If you decide to do just the upper exum, or the owen spalding route on the grand then think about doing it car to car in a day. Go super light, and you will have no problem doing it in a day. Unless you decide to pitch class 4 rock then you will spend a cold night out, and it will suck. The lower saddle is a nasty place to stay, it smells like piss, and can be really windy.

 

Oh and if you decide to do CMC take some tricams they are the only thing that will protect it well.

[kurthicks]

how about snow routes? anybody done the enclosure couloir? skillet glacier on Moran? NW ice couloir on Middle? any other recommends would be awesome.

[ryland_moore]

I agree on CMC although it takes longer to get there. I rec. finding or borrowing a canoe from someone although you can hike it. You can also run up South and Middle in a day. Petzholdt over Exum just because of crowds and waiting at belay stations. There is only one way I know of to bail off the Upper Exum while on route and it is tough. If you do decide to do the OS. Instead of doing the "belly crawl" there is a really cool chimney that goes at 5.8 but is well protected and has a few fixed pins in it. This variation can help to justify climbing OS route and can save time instead of waiting in line to cross the belly crawl.

 

Permits can be hard to come by for lower saddle and sometimes even the Moraine. You may even want to camp at the ranger station porch. As for time, when are you going? Alot of snow still up there according to a few friends in Jackson. Also see this thread and this one . Now do your own search on cc.com. There are plenty of discussions about this very topic. Have fun!

[lummox]

cmc is pretty wet in early season. the enclosure is pretty caz. so is black ice but it is a lot longer.

[willstrickland]

I've made this recommendation to alot of people after having done it myself. This will get you alot of quality out of your approach labor: Get your full 3 night backcountry pass.

 

Day 1. Hike up to Irene's Arete, climb it, camp near the base of Irene's. Multi-pitch 5.8 (I think we did it in 6 pitches).

 

Day 2. Move your camp up to the lower saddle and spend the rest of the day chillin'. Don't miss the privy, it might be the best view you'll have from a toilet seat in your lifetime.

 

Day 3. Climb the Direct Exum. Crux pitch is 5.7 that protects well and has good holds. Fantastic position. You can make it harder by taking a .10a variation (the Golden face?). Descend and camp at the lower saddle again.

 

Day 4. NW couloir on the Middle. Moderate snow climb (could have ice depending on time of year) to the summit of the middle. Hike out, drink beer.

[chris_w]

I've made this recommendation to alot of people after having done it myself. This will get you alot of quality out of your approach labor: Get your full 3 night backcountry pass.

 

Day 1. Hike up to Irene's Arete, climb it, camp near the base of Irene's. Multi-pitch 5.8 (I think we did it in 6 pitches).

 

Day 2. Move your camp up to the upper saddle and spend the rest of the day chillin'. Don't miss the privy, it might be the best view you'll have from a toilet seat in your lifetime.

 

Day 3. Climb the Direct Exum. Crux pitch is 5.7 that protects well and has good holds. Fantastic position. You can make it harder by taking a .10a variation (the Golden face?). Descend and camp at the upper saddle again.

 

Day 4. NW couloir on the Middle. Moderate snow climb (could have ice depending on time of year) to the summit of the middle. Hike out, drink beer.

 

I think he meant to say Lower saddle instead of Upper Saddle.

[Rodchester]

Day 2. Move your camp up to the upper saddle and spend the rest of the day chillin'. Don't miss the privy, it might be the best view you'll have from a toilet seat in your lifetime.

 

Alas...the finest exposed high altitude alpine shiter in the continental United States is gone....a thing of not so distant memory. However, a new form of high-tech blue bag has taken its place.

[lummox]

Day 2. Move your camp up to the upper saddle and spend the rest of the day chillin'. Don't miss the privy, it might be the best view you'll have from a toilet seat in your lifetime.

 

Alas...the finest exposed high altitude alpine shiter in the continental United States is gone....a thing of not so distant memory. However, a new form of high-tech blue bag has taken its place.

but you can still rub one out on top of the boulder.

[mughjie]

Whichever route you do on the Grand, don't forget that the biggest traffic jam happens on the descent. Most parties rap the OS route and one can get stuck waiting there for quite a while. With the afternoon thunderstorms, it can be an exciting place to sit.

[Squid]

There's not much there. You should just stay home. I hear Renton's got some nice climbing.

[MysticNacho]

Thanks for all the suggestions everyone. Everyone, that is, except for Squid.

 

I hear Renton has some quality granite.

[AaronB]

I say go snow on the grand to avoid crowds.. and hit the Stettner/Ford Couloirs, on the Grand, then do buckingham ridge on the Middle teton 5.7 with something like 10-15 pitches, depending on how you climb it.

[Lambone]

I'd second willstrickland's plan. Irene's Arete is a very cool route.

 

We did basically the same thing, but the weather was sketch so we ended up on OS instead of Exum.

 

Middle looks cool too.

 

Have fun!

[DPS]

What willstrickland said.

[ryland_moore]

Caveat Emptor and The Snaz in Death Canyon

[klenke]

This is the view from that shitter (or former shitter). It's much more expansive than this picture indicates.

[ryland_moore]

Second best shitter I've ever had the pleasure of partaking in...... not too far behind my top shitter choice