Distel32 Posted May 4, 2004 Posted May 4, 2004 Does anybody have pics??? Preferably of the steeper section? Saw a couple pics but they weren't that good. I really want go to and do the routes, I know some are short and steep, sounds like my kind of deal..... Quote
Dru Posted May 4, 2004 Posted May 4, 2004 look in the guidebook young one. a lot of routes are actually long. you will want to look into Rocket 12d 18m, Animal Instinct 13a 16m, Caress of Steel 13b 10m, Alistairs Route 12d 15m, Youth Gone Wild 12b 12m; Not to mention Hand Over Fist 12b 10m at the Lakeside-In-the-Woods And while at Murrin check out Wabbit Handcuffs 12c 7m "a very bouldery crux" hah! Betazoid 12b 10m is also a boulder problemish thing as its easier version Beat The Clock 11d 10m. Why even I have dogged my way to glory on Beat the clock and I can say with honesty the crux is a bitch! Quote
thelawgoddess Posted May 4, 2004 Posted May 4, 2004 go check it out, distel. take rumr with you. Quote
Distel32 Posted May 4, 2004 Author Posted May 4, 2004 look in the guidebook young one. a lot of routes are actually long. you will want to look into Rocket 12d 18m, Animal Instinct 13a 16m, Caress of Steel 13b 10m, Alistairs Route 12d 15m, Youth Gone Wild 12b 12m; Not to mention Hand Over Fist 12b 10m at the Lakeside-In-the-Woods And while at Murrin check out Wabbit Handcuffs 12c 7m "a very bouldery crux" hah! Betazoid 12b 10m is also a boulder problemish thing as its easier version Beat The Clock 11d 10m. Why even I have dogged my way to glory on Beat the clock and I can say with honesty the crux is a bitch! I want to do all of them. It might be raining wed. anybody want to go in the afternoon??? I can leave bham by 12. yeah I don't have the guidebook Quote
thelawgoddess Posted May 4, 2004 Posted May 4, 2004 not sure how dry that wall stays in the rain. i might have been game ... if i could actually climb anything on it. Quote
Dru Posted May 4, 2004 Posted May 4, 2004 just about anybody in the world can climb pleasant pheasant... Quote
thelawgoddess Posted May 4, 2004 Posted May 4, 2004 yeah; that's the one and only climb i've done there. my first outside 5.11 tr flash. woohoo. note the hint of sarcasm. but man was it fun! Quote
Distel32 Posted May 4, 2004 Author Posted May 4, 2004 damnit so who's down!? gotta climb gotaa climb I'm getting antsy here folks.....crimps, aahhhhh, pull down and send. Quote
Dru Posted May 4, 2004 Posted May 4, 2004 damnit so who's down!? gotta climb gotaa climb I'm getting antsy here folks.....crimps, aahhhhh, pull down and send. give a man a rope and all of a sudden he thinks he's a sport climber forecast for wednesday is for Thunderstorms. Quote
RuMR Posted May 4, 2004 Posted May 4, 2004 hey...Get a guide book, the wall is very easy to orient yerself to w/ one. Have you ever used one before? Rocket is waaaay good...very flashable...just missed it... Animal is good also, and there is a recent bolt added to the top to cut down the "scary" factor. You must do Air BC and NoName road...good mid 11's and Burning Down the Couch is one of my favorite 11+'s just about anywhere. An extra tcu or two for the top is nice for comfort but not necessary... Blackwater (i think that's its name) is a stupendous .12a...very very good... Quote
RuMR Posted May 4, 2004 Posted May 4, 2004 also, the shorter routes are kinda dumb when there are 3 star 25m to 35m routes just a hundred yards down the hill... Quote
Dru Posted May 4, 2004 Posted May 4, 2004 also, the shorter routes are kinda dumb when there are 3 star 25m to 35m routes just a hundred yards down the hill... duuuude 25 to 35 m is like a highball on top of a highbal on top of a highball... poor boulder boys forearms might explode if he had to hold on that long! Quote
Distel32 Posted May 4, 2004 Author Posted May 4, 2004 werd, way too long!!! If they are lame I may stray away, but right now steep and short on granite sounds good to me Quote
glacier Posted May 4, 2004 Posted May 4, 2004 Not sure about Pet Wall, but Chekamus at the Big Show/Gom Jabbar area stays dry in the rain. Quote
Dru Posted May 4, 2004 Posted May 4, 2004 pet wall gets wet in the rain, well except for right under flight of the challenger if its raining you want to be on something like youngblood (13b 10m) or bravado (13d 10m) at the kakodemon boulder rather than at pet wall. i would guess the big show is also toolong for distel no to mention you have to climb a slab to get to it!!! Quote
dylan_taylor Posted May 4, 2004 Posted May 4, 2004 Black water is my favorite, even though I took the pisser off of the upper crux. I was suprised at how quality it was - for a sport climb. I want to do flight of the challenger in my next life. Quote
Dru Posted May 4, 2004 Posted May 4, 2004 i saw a video of either boyd or maddaloni free soloing the challenger Quote
dylan_taylor Posted May 4, 2004 Posted May 4, 2004 If I tried to free solo the challenger (or anything else) I would definitly be entering my next life way too soon. Quote
jordop Posted May 4, 2004 Posted May 4, 2004 (edited) Quote I saw a video of either boyd or maddaloni free soloing the challenger . Edited June 8, 2021 by jordop Quote
fern Posted May 4, 2004 Posted May 4, 2004 Ben was not free-soloing in that video. There are shots of him placing gear and shots of Vince belaying him. perhaps there is another video of someone free-soloing FoTC but it is not Ben's memorial video. Quote
Distel32 Posted May 5, 2004 Author Posted May 5, 2004 c'mon it is going to be nice this afternoon, anyone down!? Quote
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