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Posted

i carry 'biners that i've found, but last summer i also started carrying quicklinks (like below). useful for both setting up rap anchors and bailing. definitely much cheaper than 'biners and you can buy 'em as beefy as you want. any hardware store should carry a selection.

pACE2-988564reg.jpg

Posted

I belive Black Diamond/ Chris Harmston did some testing in relation to biners that were scooped from the base of El Cap and if my fading memory serves me right something like 99% of them passed all tests that new biners are subjected to.

 

Lawgoddess, aid climbing has taught me to place protection better in general, I personally do not think that I would subject myself or my partner to a placement that I hold no confidence in.

Posted
Lawgoddess, aid climbing has taught me to place protection better in general, I personally do not think that I would subject myself or my partner to a placement that I hold no confidence in.

same here. it's just that when i first started leading trad even a brand-spanking-new #4 camalot seemed kind of scary to trust my life to ... but a couple of years later, while doing my first wall, i was amazed to discover that i deemed rather tiny brass nuts with fraying wires totally trustworthy. wink.gif

Posted
I belive Black Diamond/ Chris Harmston did some testing in relation to biners that were scooped from the base of El Cap and if my fading memory serves me right something like 99% of them passed all tests that new biners are subjected to.

 

Lawgoddess, aid climbing has taught me to place protection better in general, I personally do not think that I would subject myself or my partner to a placement that I hold no confidence in.

Hmmm... To get a result of "99% passing", they must have scooped at least a hundred biners (99% = 99 out of a hundred passed). I guess I'm going to have to make a booty-hunting expedition down to Yosemite...

Posted
I guess I'm going to have to make a booty-hunting expedition down to Yosemite...

i would think 100 biners from the base of el cap wouldn't take too terribly long to accumulate. i was surprised how much stuff i found both on and below the leaning tower over two days - and i wasn't even looking for booty!

Posted

i remember when dmm did a bunch of tests on old tat. that shit held surprisingly big loads. and then some failed way low. but i aint ever heard of a biner failing under body weight.

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