Doug_Hutchinson Posted June 19, 2002 Share Posted June 19, 2002 I am ready to replace my double 8.5mm alpine ropes with a pair of lighter (about 7.8mm twins). The purpose will be for long alpine rock climbs. I have 50m ropes now but am on the fence about going up to 60m. For a single rope, I have only 60m ropes and will probably go up to 70m next. However, for alpine and with ropes skinnier than 8mm, I could see how more length could be an unnecessary evil if you have twins. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJ Posted June 19, 2002 Share Posted June 19, 2002 I recently posted a similar question about doubles. Initially I got feedback saying 60m was the way to go and then a couple folks (some off-line) recommended 50m. Alpine rock can mean many things but if you plan to climb routes with a lot of rope drag potential then I'd lean toward 50m. If you don't see this as a big problem then stick with the 60m plan. I am still on the fence regarding length for doubles. If I planned to use the ropes for long cragging then I'd probably go with 60m. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rodchester Posted June 19, 2002 Share Posted June 19, 2002 I say go with 60s. The point on the rope drag makes no sense what so ever, at least to my silly mind. If you have 60 and decide to only use 50 on a particlar route because of rope drag then just use 50, have the extra 10 in case you need it. The route causes the rope drag, not the length of the rope. Having the extra 10 increases options, not rope drag. Sure, it increases the weight somewhat and the inital cost (usually anyway). Put simply, if you have a 60 and need a 50 you can do the route. If you have 50 and need a 60 your screwed. If you have a 60 you can do many routes in les pitches. If you have a 50 you can't. The only real negative is the weight...and I guess to a certain degree bulk. My two pennies, and now I'll shut up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted June 19, 2002 Share Posted June 19, 2002 What the hell if you think 50 is better than 60 why not go all the way and save more weight by using a 45 or 40? Try using a 50 and 60 for a while and see how often the 50 brings you up short. Then get another 60. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishstick Posted June 19, 2002 Share Posted June 19, 2002 Owning 50's and 60's, let's just say the 50's NEVER leave home. GB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted June 19, 2002 Share Posted June 19, 2002 Alpine routes- 50s if you have two. If the route is way back there the extra weight is annoying. I have not used 60 meter ropes in alpine often. Never have I found it necessary but I am a gaper too. I own 5 ropes- Alpine rock more techie I use single 50. Ice climbing waterfalls 60 doubles Cragging single 60 Simul climbing and non techie alpine (5.7 and easier) 30 meter single line of 9 mil. Glacier rope- 8 mil 50 (with option of using a 30 or 40m rope above) [ 06-19-2002, 09:41 AM: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeclimb9 Posted June 19, 2002 Share Posted June 19, 2002 I've had double ropes of 50, 55, and 60m. IMO, the 55s were the best compromise between length and weight. Whatever you get, go BlueWater. The Icefloss are beautifully handling ropes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted June 19, 2002 Share Posted June 19, 2002 I use both 50's and 60's but I actually carry the 50's more often. For mountain climbing and even most rock climbing, it is VERY RARE that I come up short and am unable to simulclimb or do whatever is necessary to make it work. For snow climbs or alpine ice the 60's are better, but in most situations I prefer the 50's because I just like the smaller coils a little better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted June 20, 2002 Share Posted June 20, 2002 go with 30's. nice and light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted June 20, 2002 Share Posted June 20, 2002 oh, and just use one half rope. even lighter! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drangsholt Posted June 20, 2002 Share Posted June 20, 2002 I got pair of 37M Sterling twin ropes for alpine climbs where weight (2.75 lbs each) is an issue and you have to rap off. Unlike most twin ropes, the impact force of the Sterling twins is lower than most singles. The drawback I've found is the tendancy to tangle. I'm surprised how often I've used them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted June 20, 2002 Share Posted June 20, 2002 Mattp, I think you have both 60's and 48's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted June 20, 2002 Share Posted June 20, 2002 quote: Originally posted by mattp: I use both 50's and 60's but I actually carry the 50's more often. For mountain climbing and even most rock climbing, it is VERY RARE that I come up short and am unable to simulclimb or do whatever is necessary to make it work. For snow climbs or alpine ice the 60's are better, but in most situations I prefer the 50's because I just like the smaller coils a little better. My experience is alpine and remote craggs and I concur with mattp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.