Jump to content

Best length for twin ropes?


Doug_Hutchinson

Recommended Posts

I am ready to replace my double 8.5mm alpine ropes with a pair of lighter (about 7.8mm twins). The purpose will be for long alpine rock climbs. I have 50m ropes now but am on the fence about going up to 60m. For a single rope, I have only 60m ropes and will probably go up to 70m next. However, for alpine and with ropes skinnier than 8mm, I could see how more length could be an unnecessary evil if you have twins. Thoughts?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 12
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

I recently posted a similar question about doubles. Initially I got feedback saying 60m was the way to go and then a couple folks (some off-line) recommended 50m. Alpine rock can mean many things but if you plan to climb routes with a lot of rope drag potential then I'd lean toward 50m. If you don't see this as a big problem then stick with the 60m plan.

 

I am still on the fence regarding length for doubles. If I planned to use the ropes for long cragging then I'd probably go with 60m.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I say go with 60s.

 

The point on the rope drag makes no sense what so ever, at least to my silly mind.

 

If you have 60 and decide to only use 50 on a particlar route because of rope drag then just use 50, have the extra 10 in case you need it.

 

The route causes the rope drag, not the length of the rope. Having the extra 10 increases options, not rope drag. Sure, it increases the weight somewhat and the inital cost (usually anyway).

 

Put simply, if you have a 60 and need a 50 you can do the route. If you have 50 and need a 60 your screwed. If you have a 60 you can do many routes in les pitches. If you have a 50 you can't.

 

The only real negative is the weight...and I guess to a certain degree bulk.

 

My two pennies, and now I'll shut up. [big Drink]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What the hell if you think 50 is better than 60 why not go all the way and save more weight by using a 45 or 40?

 

Try using a 50 and 60 for a while and see how often the 50 brings you up short. Then get another 60.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Alpine routes- 50s if you have two. If the route is way back there the extra weight is annoying. I have not used 60 meter ropes in alpine often. Never have I found it necessary but I am a gaper too.

 

I own 5 ropes-

 

Alpine rock more techie I use single 50.

 

Ice climbing waterfalls 60 doubles

 

Cragging single 60

 

Simul climbing and non techie alpine (5.7 and easier) 30 meter single line of 9 mil.

 

Glacier rope- 8 mil 50 (with option of using a 30 or 40m rope above)

 

[ 06-19-2002, 09:41 AM: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use both 50's and 60's but I actually carry the 50's more often. For mountain climbing and even most rock climbing, it is VERY RARE that I come up short and am unable to simulclimb or do whatever is necessary to make it work. For snow climbs or alpine ice the 60's are better, but in most situations I prefer the 50's because I just like the smaller coils a little better.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got pair of 37M Sterling twin ropes for alpine climbs where weight (2.75 lbs each) is an issue and you have to rap off. Unlike most twin ropes, the impact force of the Sterling twins is lower than most singles. The drawback I've found is the tendancy to tangle. I'm surprised how often I've used them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

quote:

Originally posted by mattp:

I use both 50's and 60's but I actually carry the 50's more often. For mountain climbing and even most rock climbing, it is VERY RARE that I come up short and am unable to simulclimb or do whatever is necessary to make it work. For snow climbs or alpine ice the 60's are better, but in most situations I prefer the 50's because I just like the smaller coils a little better.

My experience is alpine and remote craggs and I concur with mattp.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...