Peter_Puget Posted April 15, 2004 Posted April 15, 2004 Anyone seen the new Si guide? I heard it was out but it isn't at the VW or REI. Quote
chirp Posted April 15, 2004 Posted April 15, 2004 I got mine at REI Seattle. I think it's on the bestseller list right now as it seems to go poof fast. They have a few copies at REI Tacoma right now tho. Quote
olyclimber Posted April 15, 2004 Posted April 15, 2004 If you're talking about the Lil Mt Si (Exit 32 Climbing) book, I picked it up at REI month or two ago. I saw it at Second Ascent too. Â From the title, I thought you were asking to hire guide to climb Mt. Si... Quote
Alpinfox Posted April 15, 2004 Posted April 15, 2004 What's it like? Â Well it's not as good as the new Smith Rock Guide, I can tell you that. I saw MisterE's copy.... SWEEEEEEET!! Quote
olyclimber Posted April 15, 2004 Posted April 15, 2004 What's it like? Â For a rock climbing gumby such as myself, it is pretty good. Nice pictures and descriptions of each area. If you know the area already you don't need it, but it is nice to have some one's opinion as to the ratings of each route. If you don't know the area, it can definitely point you directly to the fun stuff for your skill level... If you haven't seen that guys website, here it is: http://www.deceptioncrags.com/ Quote
Peter_Puget Posted April 15, 2004 Author Posted April 15, 2004 I have purchased 4 different guides to Smith over the years plus at least half dozen photocopied updates/guides. Â When will the madness end? Quote
RuMR Posted April 15, 2004 Posted April 15, 2004 What's it like? Â For a rock climbing gumby such as myself, it is pretty good. Nice pictures and descriptions of each area. If you know the area already you don't need it, but it is nice to have some one's opinion as to the ratings of each route. If you don't know the area, it can definitely point you directly to the fun stuff for your skill level... If you haven't seen that guys website, here it is: http://www.deceptioncrags.com/ i can't believe marcus' efforts have been immortalized on the front and back cover!!! Quote
matt_warfield Posted April 15, 2004 Posted April 15, 2004 (edited) I have purchased 4 different guides to Smith over the years plus at least half dozen photocopied updates/guides. When will the madness end?  Well, it won't end here as I think Burdo is going to put out a comprehensive North Bend guide soon. The Bruce guide is in the same format as Exit 38: photo topo's (with some confusion due to foreshortening and use of wide angle), concise beta, and updated ratings. Little Si was way out of date in other books and this guide will be popular. Edited April 15, 2004 by matt_warfield Quote
Peter_Puget Posted April 15, 2004 Author Posted April 15, 2004 I have two 32 guides right now I guess I'll have to buy 2 more! I am kind of a guidebook junky. Quote
RuMR Posted April 15, 2004 Posted April 15, 2004 I have two 32 guides right now I guess I'll have to buy 2 more! I am kind of a guidebook junky. i stay up late quite often reading guidebooks to places i've been, places i'm going, and places i want to go!! Â i have no life!! Quote
glacier Posted April 15, 2004 Posted April 15, 2004 i can't believe marcus' efforts have been immortalized on the front and back cover!!! Â Is he up to 200 attempts on Chronic, yet? I'll have to hit the after work sessions to follow the epic. Quote
Squid Posted April 15, 2004 Posted April 15, 2004 i can't believe marcus' efforts have been immortalized on the front and back cover!!! Â Is he up to 200 attempts on Chronic, yet? I'll have to hit the after work sessions to follow the epic. Â What's not to believe? Marcus has worked that route more than any route has been worked before. The guy should go into climbing mythology for his single-minded madness. Quote
RuMR Posted April 15, 2004 Posted April 15, 2004 maybe even rivalling scott burke on the nose????? HAHAHAHA Quote
Squid Posted April 15, 2004 Posted April 15, 2004 Wait- I'm not making fun of Marcus. The guys an effing machine- his mastery of focus is both inspiring and intimidating (I may be easily intimidated). He's a friend and a hero, and I'll be first in line to buy him a drink when he walks away from Chronic, successful or not (but the machine don't drink). Â To Marcus Quote
Off_White Posted April 15, 2004 Posted April 15, 2004 I have two 32 guides right now I guess I'll have to buy 2 more! I am kind of a guidebook junky. i stay up late quite often reading guidebooks to places i've been, places i'm going, and places i want to go!! Â i have no life!! Â Maybe we need to start a support group. Quote
RuMR Posted April 15, 2004 Posted April 15, 2004 Wait- I'm not making fun of Marcus. The guys an effing machine- his mastery of focus is both inspiring and intimidating (I may be easily intimidated). He's a friend and a hero, and I'll be first in line to buy him a drink when he walks away from Chronic, successful or not (but the machine don't drink).  To Marcus  i'm not making fun either!! i think he went "mental" on the route last year and needed some space because he began falling at random spots...time off from the route is all he needs before he sends! Quote
glacier Posted April 15, 2004 Posted April 15, 2004 I admire his focus - he is a machine, but one does have to question the logic of progressing through the grades by doing one climb of each, e.g. Propaganda (one summer), Californicator (the next summer), Chronic (ongoing)... Quote
assmonkey Posted April 16, 2004 Posted April 16, 2004 (edited) I have a beef with the new Exit 32 and 38 guides. Half the information is in the front of the book, and the other half is in the back of the book. That frickin' sucks, flippin' the pages back and forth. Not to mention that the Kinko's copy job doesn't really pack well. Â I, too, am a bit of a guide book junkie, and I don't recall seeing that style used before. With all the new routes up at 38 and an information deficit on the routes at 32, I welcome the information in the new guides. I just can't stand the layout and format. I will probably get copies of Burdo's new guide when it comes out, just because it will hopefully read better (no frickin' flippin' pages back and forth) and pack better. Â But, both guides are a welcome antidote to the inaccuracies published in previous guides regarding the area. (I'm thinking of one book in particular.) I always wondered what Repo Man was called. Â Let me add too, that I think it would be the shiznit if Burdo added some history of the area. He seems to be the dude who knows it all, it's not written down in the 32/38 guides, and it would be a shame to lose the history. Yeah, yeah, it's not Yosemite, but I imagine there's still some good background stories about the development of routes out there. And it is, arguably, the most popular Seattle crag. Edited April 16, 2004 by assmonkey Quote
Squid Posted April 16, 2004 Posted April 16, 2004 I haven't seen these guides- only heard of these second-hand. Are these the Garth Bruce guides? Quote
ken4ord Posted April 16, 2004 Posted April 16, 2004 (edited) Yeah he is talking about those guides, they blow monkey's. I have the 38 guide and there is no way in the world should that guide be as big as it is. There is a boat load of useless information in the damn thing, and a ton of wasted space. Then as mentioned the information is split up in the book. When I originally bought it I thought I was buying a guide book for both 38 and 32, which is the way it should be. Â History???? for a bolted shit crag, I would have been happy with just the photos with the lines and ratings (the only good thing about the books). It is not that hard to count the bolts to decide on how many draws to bring. Who care who bolted it. Edited April 16, 2004 by ken4ord Quote
assmonkey Posted April 16, 2004 Posted April 16, 2004 I haven't seen these guides- only heard of these second-hand. Are these the Garth Bruce guides? Â Those are the ones to which I am referring. Someone posted a link to his site earlier in the thread. Â Couple more beefs: In the new guides, there is a column denoting if it is possible to TR a route. Cool idea, I think, but the author has X'd (meaning it's not safe to TR) many of the routes that I've been TRing for years. I don't get it. 32/38 is probably one of the safest areas to climb that I've ever seen, in fact, I can't recall a single route I wouldn't TR (with a directional qd placed here or there). Â Also, it would have been sweet to have a list of all the 32/38 gear climbs on a single page. Easy enough to solve that problem with a ballpoint pen on the bus to work one day, though. Quote
matt_m Posted April 16, 2004 Posted April 16, 2004 i can't believe marcus' efforts have been immortalized on the front and back cover!!! Â Is he up to 200 attempts on Chronic, yet? I'll have to hit the after work sessions to follow the epic. Â Marcus is awesome - i didn't realize the mythic status the man has on the route. I work with the guy and you couldn't meet a nicer person. I'm new to the area (little over a year) and every time i mention a route i might try the guy can remember SPECIFIC info - i'm talking holds, gear you name it! He seems to have been EVERYWHERE in WA too! We talked a bunch at work about training and i backed him on taking a break for a while - sanity is important too! Â To Marcus! Quote
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