Is Terminal Preppie really 11c?

[erikn]

I was on Terminal Preppie at Index a week ago. I can see much of it being 11c, except for the slab section before the thin roof crack. Are you really supposed to friction slab climb there? Is that what 11c slab is like? It just doesn't seem at all likely to go. The climb also was very dirty, so not a "popular route" as the Sky Valley book claims. Any suggestions on easier slab routes to maybe learn how to do this?

[glacier]

I took a couple of t.r. runs on it on Sunday - it had been several years since I was on it last - I think that the slab moves past the last bolt are a bit stiff for 11c- I found nothing but a pair of terribly thin crimps while I did the Roadrunner with my feet until I could get them up to decent smears. But it is an Index 11c, after all. I actually had much more trouble on the final thin crack move exiting the slab.

 

And this may start some terse discussions, but I think of Index's grades as 'redpoint' grades, i.e. it's 11c if you have worked it out and know exactly how to do the moves, rather than an 'on-sight' grade, which I consider a bit softer.

[lancegranite]

Every bit as much as Newest Industry is 11a.

[Peter_Puget]

Why don't you suggest a better rating? Are you saying that TP is 5.12?

[glacier]

5.9+

 

 

or possibly 12a, either or.

[Peter_Puget]

Given that choice I'd go with 9+

[TimL]

Seriously, Index 11c is supposed to be hard. If it were easy it would be called Exit 38.

 

Sure the grades are hard. Thats the beauty of the area. I would say keep the route the same grade or call it easier...like 11b. I'll try this route today or tomorrow depending on if I get out there.

 

I think its bogus making grades harder. If anything, with the increased ability of climbers, they should be downgraded.

[fredrogers]

Whatever, sendbot.

[RuMR]

Whatever, sendbot.

[minx]

as far as i'm concerned all slab should be at least .12a

 

slab suck

[slaphappy]

slabs have three grades:

5.8+ challenging but doable by most experienced leaders

5.10+ the tiniest of holds or steep mainly blank dubious friction

5.11b someone accidentally freed it once; the temp has to be perfect, low humidity, steep, absolutely blank, and only the best of leaders even have a chance.

Anything harder: see 11b

 

[Eerie]

I have no idea about Index slab routes but there is one slab route I'd like to ask about. It is on the second bench of the Careno Crag's Regular Route(? - the multi-pitch route that starts further uphill). There is the beautiful 5.7 dihedral on the right, the route in question, then to the left a chickenhead 10a slab route. I can't remember what the middle route was rated but thought it was 11a or b. Whatever its rated it is frickin hard. A buddy and I attempted to tr and both got stymied by the angle of rock and the fact that the only holds were smears or micro edges (and I mean fingernail thickness). If that route is 11 something then what the hell is 13+ slab??!!

[texplorer]

My experience is that .11 slab has NO edges, like nothingness. Of course I have only been on a few of em up at squish but damn those things are hard.

[texplorer]

Oh, and I'm glad this post is not mocking the revered Terminal Gravity or I would have to convert my bolt-chopper into a weapon of sprayer destruction

[texplorer]

Oh, and I'm glad this post is not mocking the revered Terminal Gravity or I would have to convert my bolt-chopper into a weapon of sprayer destruction.

[scott_harpell]

I have no idea about Index slab routes but there is one slab route I'd like to ask about. It is on the second bench of the Careno Crag's Regular Route(? - the multi-pitch route that starts further uphill). There is the beautiful 5.7 dihedral on the right, the route in question, then to the left a chickenhead 10a slab route. I can't remember what the middle route was rated but thought it was 11a or b. Whatever its rated it is frickin hard. A buddy and I attempted to tr and both got stymied by the angle of rock and the fact that the only holds were smears or micro edges (and I mean fingernail thickness). If that route is 11 something then what the hell is 13+ slab??!!

 

there are two routes on the face left of the 5.7 dihedral. I know one is like 10a-b and the other was hard... as in a fell lots.

[TimL]

 

5.11b someone accidentally freed it once; the temp has to be perfect, low humidity, steep, absolutely blank, and only the best of leaders even have a chance.

Anything harder: see 11b

 

 

[slothrop]

I remember reading about a Yosemite hardman smearing pine resin all over his shoes to get the FA of some crazy hard slab (5.13?).

[willstrickland]

Next time you're in Camp 4, take a look at the Kauk Slab boulder problem. That thing is a V8 slab problem and is just f'in absurd. If that's what .13 slab looks like, you can have it. People say you don't need strong legs in rock climbing, I'd argue that hard slab climbing required serious leg strength. You can't be bouncing or exploding up into a high step. Most people bounce somewhat when using a high foothold...conciously monitor yourself sometime and see if you don't do it.

[EWolfe]

Next time you're in Camp 4, take a look at the Kauk Slab boulder problem. That thing is a V8 slab problem and is just f'in absurd. If that's what .13 slab looks like, you can have it. People say you don't need strong legs in rock climbing, I'd argue that hard slab climbing required serious leg strength. You can't be bouncing or exploding up into a high step. Most people bounce somewhat when using a high foothold...conciously monitor yourself sometime and see if you don't do it.

 

I've tried that thing. Frickin sick to stand and look at the angle and lack of holds, then see the chalk marks going up when I can't even get on the thing

[willstrickland]

No doubt man, I got one move off the ground and thought it was a major accomplishment

 

There's video around of Kauk styling it too. Makes it look casual.

[slaphappy]

I have no idea about Index slab routes but there is one slab route I'd like to ask about. It is on the second bench of the Careno Crag's Regular Route(? - the multi-pitch route that starts further uphill). There is the beautiful 5.7 dihedral on the right, the route in question, then to the left a chickenhead 10a slab route. I can't remember what the middle route was rated but thought it was 11a or b. Whatever its rated it is frickin hard. A buddy and I attempted to tr and both got stymied by the angle of rock and the fact that the only holds were smears or micro edges (and I mean fingernail thickness). If that route is 11 something then what the hell is 13+ slab??!!

 

Funny, I actually thought that the route you're refering to, Nubbin Grubbin 11b, is fairly spot on for the grade, it actually has holds.

[Eerie]

Nubbin Grubbin' eh? Ok, so that was the route. I wasn't saying I thought it should be graded 13 or anything. Just that it seemed really, really difficult...and a rather enjoyable way to lose skin off fingertips.

[matt_m]

I remember reading about a Yosemite hardman smearing pine resin all over his shoes to get the FA of some crazy hard slab (5.13?).

 

I think the story of the resin refers to stuff Bridwell used to do on the apron (Yos). Specifically, to the route Unfinished Symphony. Hard 11. Unfinshed Symphony is the approach route for Hall of Mirrors. 12c and grade VI. See 50 favorites. I lived with a guy that did like the 4th ascent of HOM - said it was a lifetime achievement for him.

Anyway - hard slab is awesome - when you get up it, it's as if logic has been defied. Other hard have grips that the mind understands needs strength to grasp. Slab - there's nothing! It's like slowly understand steven hawking stuff.

 

Tick list this year... Unfinished Symphony (both the Yosemite and Squam versions), Dancing in the Light, Magic Carpet Ride. Might even check out Dream On (gone up to the overlap 10d but the stuff above looks BLANK!)

 

good times

 

have to get to work at index too

[willstrickland]

Negative, matt_m. Check your facts, most of them are askew.