Eerie Posted March 25, 2004 Posted March 25, 2004 I'm sure the history of the argument that tape is aid goes further back than the linked article and subsequent ranting... but it sure is fun to read. http://www.climbingmoab.com/rock/db/indian_creek/ Quote
Jim Posted March 25, 2004 Posted March 25, 2004 going there next week and not without 3 rolls of tape. Quote
jonah Posted March 25, 2004 Posted March 25, 2004 I used to go there a bit, and know the guy who does most of the ranting. I told him I thought not taping is cheating because it gives you a better feel for the jams. He didn't have a good response, other than to say "I soloed Incredible Hand Crack." Whatever. Dean Potter was there last spring barefoot with tape on his feet. Is that aid, too? Funny folks in Utah... Quote
Dru Posted March 25, 2004 Posted March 25, 2004 "Tape? Tape is aid, and chicks dig scars" - Eric Hutton, Joshua Tree 1995. Quote
erik Posted March 27, 2004 Posted March 27, 2004 I used to go there a bit, and know the guy who does most of the ranting. I told him I thought not taping is cheating because it gives you a better feel for the jams. He didn't have a good response, other than to say "I soloed Incredible Hand Crack." Whatever. Dean Potter was there last spring barefoot with tape on his feet. Is that aid, too? Funny folks in Utah... blah blah blah...dean potter...blah blah blah... taoe is not rewuired when one uses proper technique, wheter it be at the creek or any where else. if you become reliant on it then it will always be an aid for you as you are afriad to move away from it. people who tape also litter quit abit. i think this is a pointless arguement and statement. and anyways most people in utah are inbred retards, so saying that they are wierd is pointlesss as well. dont use tape and see whatit feels like. even with a gobbie or two things are possible. Quote
AlpineK Posted March 28, 2004 Posted March 28, 2004 I've gone to IC a couple of times and proudly taped up every day. Aid climbing with out ladders is fun. Quote
snoboy Posted March 28, 2004 Posted March 28, 2004 "Tape is aid, sometimes aid is neccesary." Who said it? Quote
ATyak Posted March 28, 2004 Posted March 28, 2004 This is in response to Erik's post. When I moved to the PNW from California, I was a little bummed, because I heard all the typical rumors that the rest of the country believes about the area - there is no good climbing, all the climbers are pretentious bumblies who spray about how great they are and can't climb worth a shit, etc. Happily, I didn't find that to be the case. I've met a ton of strong super cool climbers. Unfortunately, none of them post here (with the exception of Dru, Peter Puget, etc.). Instead, it's a bunch of no-talent ass clowns like erik bitching about other people's style and trying to bring them down. Erik, I'm sure you don't use tape. Most people don't, when they're climbing 5.8. There's nothing wrong with being a 5.8 climber, but don't try to slag off everyone else, acting like you're the shit and they suck for using tape. My grandpa and his dog flashed every route you ever dreamed you could someday redpoint. Quote
snoboy Posted March 28, 2004 Posted March 28, 2004 And he makes a splash with his first post! Nice Job! You can always tell the from away (usually 'merican) climbers at Squish, they are the ones with the tape gloves on some 5.8 Apron slab like Banana Peel. Quote
willstrickland Posted March 28, 2004 Posted March 28, 2004 Ya'll breed that dog? I could use a ropegun puppy that can also ski-jour and flush/retrieve quail. Quote
erik Posted March 29, 2004 Posted March 29, 2004 i dont even live in the pnw right now atyak... you can disagee with me all you want and i do not care. it is a personal choice, i did not slag anyone off as you say. the funny thing is your repsonse is exactly what you are complaining about. so what is your point? that you are a hypocrite? either way it makes no difference to me at all. enjoy your day. Quote
chelle Posted March 30, 2004 Posted March 30, 2004 (edited) Chicks dig scars? Yep, especially when they are their own from climbing a fun hard crack. I used to love the little gobies that I got when climbing cracks a lot a couple years ago... I learned how to make tape gloves when I was down at Red Rocks. It is totally aid, but it keeps my hands from getting messed up when I fall out of the cracks and lets me still make my clinical hours without getting into long discussions about open abrasions with my instructors... Aid is sometimes necessary. ;p Edited March 30, 2004 by ehmmic Quote
sk Posted March 30, 2004 Posted March 30, 2004 from where i sit aiding is still climbing as a mater of fact i look foword to learning to aid one day Quote
matt_m Posted March 30, 2004 Posted March 30, 2004 bah - i've met guys that did 12c roof offwidths with gloves wrapped in tape - the simple fact they did the climb is amazing enough. Once you start the tape is aid argument it's a very slippery slope - sticky rubber is aid, modern gear is aid etc etc there is something weird about those mad rock finger condoms though... Quote
jkrueger Posted March 30, 2004 Posted March 30, 2004 ... i've met guys that did 12c roof offwidths with gloves wrapped in tape ... If you use enough tape, it's not offwidth anymore. As for climbing aids, it's a continuum; I don't think taping is anywhere near as offensive as pulling on gear. Quote
Winter Posted March 31, 2004 Posted March 31, 2004 bah - i've met guys that did 12c roof offwidths with gloves wrapped in tape - the simple fact they did the climb is amazing enough. Once you start the tape is aid argument it's a very slippery slope - sticky rubber is aid, modern gear is aid etc etc there is something weird about those mad rock finger condoms though... Exactly so if tape is aid, why aren't shoes aid (you don't weight gear free climbing so it ain't aid)? Furthermore, who the fuck cares unless you're boasting about your own hardman stunts on the web or in the mags? All the hardman that send hard shit without tape can shit on all the gumbies that send it with tape. Quote
Rev_D._Wayne_Love Posted March 31, 2004 Posted March 31, 2004 It's like having sex with a rubber! Quote
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