11wrth wide crack day tour?

[Jens]

If one had to put together a wide crack sampling for a day at 11worth what would it inlcude? I'm thinking of a day anwhere from 6-12 pitches that could if necessary inlcude some driving around.

 

Vote for your favs?

I'm particulllarly interested in any obscure ones that I might not know about that are real gems?

Anyone ever do Black Widow? Twin Cracks?

What about the wide crack that you see on the rock formation to your left when are about five minutes from getting to midnight? Any ascents?

[Peter_Puget]

Twin Cracks - Dirty, strenuous and a rest ledge halfway up. Bushes get in the way a bit. I was a bit scared because of lack of pro. Not really recommended. Way harder than Carnival Crack. Edited to add: If I remember correctly the crux is at the start of the first half of the route.

 

Black Widow - Didn't lead but think it would be way easier than Twin Cracks. Short crux upper part turns into flaring chimney. Old bolts. Lower crack may be wet right now.

 

Isn't Midnight closed right now?

Edited March 18, 2004 by Peter_Puget

[slaphappy]

The south side of The Thumb up by Clem's Holler. Haven't tried it but it sure looks worthy. Starts as hands and turns into a nasty wide flare. From my understanding you'll need your "bag of tricks" for pro.

*If you're up there, it's worth the quick hike over to Arselips and Elbows for 25' of 10" chimney pleasure.

 

Nurse and Doctor Rock also have a few 5.10ish wide suckers that would be worth the approach. I'm pretty sure all have anchors. I recall "enjoying" them.

 

Another I haven't done but is reportedly a fine "testpiece" is Big Bad Wolf at Grandma's House directly across from Castle Rock. It's been scrubbed and has anchors.

 

...and of course all the obvious ones.

 

Sounds like a fun day.

 

* Just thought of another I haven't tried but... Unnamed "cavern" left of Mastadon Roof. Perhaps a bit short.

Edited March 18, 2004 by slaphappy

[Jens]

I climbed at Castle on Sunday and didn't see the usual signs at the trailhead posting that Midnight was closed.

[Dru]

what about some chimneys in the backside of grand central tower at peshastin? empire state and alley oop? as i recall you need some big bros for empire state

[Distel32]

is it careno crags that has the 5.8OW? I tried it on tr.

[Peter_Puget]

Accessfund.org

Midnight and Noontime Rocks and Vicinity: Okanogan-Wenatchee National Fores Closed to entry April 1 to July 31 to Protect Nesting Raptors. Raptors have been observed on and between Midnight and Noontime Rocks. During the nesting period, the site will be monitored and if conditions warrant, some restrictions may be lifted. Contact: Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forests, Lake Wenatchee and Leavenworth Ranger Districts 509/548-6977.

 

Maybe the nests are empty this year.

[Distel32]

it isn't april 1st yet PP

[Peter_Puget]

Hey your right. I am so use to the February closure date at other crags

[Jens]

Thanks for some of the responses.

 

Off the subject, but any votes for the PNW wide crack master- Of either present or days of yore? I've heard JYoder has been real solid.

[Mtguide]

Al Givler,Chris Chandler,Jim Langdon,Jim Madsen,Mike Heath and Ron Burgner,hands down.All hot during the late 60's-early 70's.I think only Langdon and Heath are still alive.

 

[eric8]

Sweet topic Jens, I was actually going online to ask about wide cracks in llworth

 

I think midnight might be the place for wide crack practice. twincracks as mentioned rollarcoaster chimney others ? plus you could do damination on the way up. Isn't shot down in the flames supposed to get wide higher up? There is 4 in the same area more or less

 

 

 

Doesn't the guy who did supercrack automatically win wide crack master? I remeber looking in the guide book and seeing something like pro to 5, 5.12+

[gnibmilc]

"shot down in flames" has a little section of 5.9 wide up toward the top. great pitch and while there, the one off to the right (rhythm?) of sdinf is good too at around 5.8 but not too wide. great bouldering up there on bright white rocks.

[ScottP]

Not WA, but Rob Cobb and I talked to Bob Braun in the Curry parking lot after he had come down from Salathe' Wall. He had a silver dollar-sized piece of hamburger where the heel of his palm should have been and another about the size of a credit card on the same elbow from leading Hollow Flake. He said the pitch was no big deal.

 

From that day forward, Bob has been the wide crack master in my book.

[TimL]

I think you've climbed it before, but Easter Overhang was super good and wide at the top.

[crazyjizzy]

Wide crack masters: Dave Davis, Cal Folsum, and the late Dave Anderson.

[ken4ord]

So it sounds like there is quite a few wide cracks to link up. Who is going to post the day challenge? Let's get a list going and see who sends first.

[North_by_Northwest]

What about Madsen's Chimney?

I remember it as being short but fairly punishing.

[mattp]

I realize that you folks are talking about harder climbs, but Midway, at 5.6, has 4" and 12" cracks and is a good beginner's primer on the subject even though they are customarily "cheated" by face climbing around them.

 

[RICHARD_CILLEY]

Its too bad Wa. doesnt have any hard wide stuff.But if u come to Madrid ,I´ll show u some testpieces and buy the beer.

[ken4ord]

Yo RC, your wrong, there is plenty that is wide and stout here in WA. They justaren't really at Leavenworth.

[Peter_Puget]

Where are they?

 

PP

[Alex]

Jens,

 

Carnival Crack is good value and close to the road so easily added to any wide crack enchainment!

[ken4ord]

Being new to the area and having a memory like a garbage can (toss shit in with no organization), the only ones I can think of are. That wide "5.9" over at Index right of Princely Ambitions. I know 5.9 is not considered hard for many, but I have yet to see anyone pull it off and I have seen three different parties on it and back off. There is route in WA Pass that bobbyperu and Uncle Tricky did, that had a nice pointy tree wanting to ram up your ass if you failed, (doods what was that again?). Then there is that 5.11 beastly looking thing up on SEWS(?) it is in the Nelson guide. There was one I saw up in Omak that looked hard as hell, overhanging hands to off-fist, I don't know if it has even been done.

 

In state where there is as much rock as we have there is probably ton more, but I have only been here less than a year and just getting to know the area.

 

Again who is going to come up with the list for 11-worth area??? I wouldn't mind a wide crack day challenge in that area.

[mattp]

Doesn't TunaBoaters at Index have some kind of hard flaring wide crack on it? How 'bout that last pitch of GM (Yes, I know its only 5.9 but few people would call it "easy," me thinks)?