letsroll Posted March 8, 2004 Share Posted March 8, 2004 Looking for beta on Leuthold. I have a copy of Oregon High and that is my main source of info right now. Does anybody have more info or with that route description be good enough. I was going to solo that route this thurs, avi conditions seem to be best on that day along with weather. I am only going to use an ice axe, will that be enough? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted March 8, 2004 Share Posted March 8, 2004 I would take crampons too. It should be set up really nice the next few days. Be aware once the sun hits the upper mountain anything that cuts loose will be coming down on top of you. I'd go early with the forecasted freezing levels. The route desc. in Oregon High is accurate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rodchester Posted March 8, 2004 Share Posted March 8, 2004 Go early...it can be a bowling alley with you as the not-so-quick-to-move-pins in warm conditions. Â Have fun.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skykilo Posted March 8, 2004 Share Posted March 8, 2004 If you like scenic steeps, take skis. It's nothing too extreme, and I think it might be the best all-around line to ski on Hood. If the conditions don't look good for skiing (even after softening as you climb and hit the ridge), then just descend the south side. Just a thought... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted March 8, 2004 Share Posted March 8, 2004 Your main avy concerns (if any at all) are after you go over the illumination saddle and before you enter the couloir. The route is straightforward and very solo-able. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted March 8, 2004 Share Posted March 8, 2004 beware starting uphill too early and climbing the reid headwall in the dark...you wouldn't be the first to discover that the reid is a far superior (and equally solo-able, though a 2nd tool would be nice) climb than luetholds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letsroll Posted March 8, 2004 Author Share Posted March 8, 2004 My plan was to climb Leuthold and board the south side route off the summit. Shooting the pearly gates looks like too much fun . I guess I will have to keep my options open for boarding the Couloir if conditions are good and time permits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashw_justin Posted March 9, 2004 Share Posted March 9, 2004 Hey if you want a climbing partner for this, I'll go. I'm a splitboarder, can go roped or unroped. Â justin AT neolectric DOT com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MATT_B Posted March 9, 2004 Share Posted March 9, 2004 Shooting the pearly gates looks like too much fun  Every time I have been up there the pearly gates is at best chewed up from 10 million mazamas at worst the 10 million mazamas are still in there. I would try the big face just to the west. I think it is called the old chute or something like that in Oregon High. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted March 9, 2004 Share Posted March 9, 2004 The old chute is almost always a better ski, but seems to see a lot of sloughing as things heat up. There's more space to work with, and no one seems to climb over there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letsroll Posted March 9, 2004 Author Share Posted March 9, 2004 Your mazama comment is so true and so funny. I have to laugh because last summer I was one of those mazamas. Old shoot or west crater rim might be the choice route for decent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thrashador Posted March 9, 2004 Share Posted March 9, 2004 Leuthold's can be quite the bowling alley if you find yourself there too late in the day and gets wickedly runneled after a warm spell. Sounds like a great plan if timed right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alasdair Posted March 9, 2004 Share Posted March 9, 2004 Hey if you want a climbing partner for this, I'll go. I'm a splitboarder, can go roped or unroped. justin AT neolectric DOT com  Does anyone actually rope up on Leuthold? Is there any reason to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted March 9, 2004 Share Posted March 9, 2004 Yes. No. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sketchfest Posted March 9, 2004 Share Posted March 9, 2004 I concur with Will. The angle of the slope is right around 40-45*, but I've seen plenty of folks tied in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ursa_Eagle Posted March 9, 2004 Share Posted March 9, 2004 I've done it both ways. If I remember properly, self-arrest would certainly be interesting in some conditions, so some people prefer the security of a running belay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted March 9, 2004 Share Posted March 9, 2004 There have been fatalities and very-near-fatalities associated with falling out of Leuthold Couloir, like almost any popular route at this angle. There was also a multiple-fatality avalanche in the couloir years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashw_justin Posted March 9, 2004 Share Posted March 9, 2004 There was also a multiple-fatality avalanche in the couloir years ago. Â Does anyone know what the circumstances, snowpack/weather conditions were? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted March 9, 2004 Share Posted March 9, 2004 It was ages ago but it is in ANAM. Don't remember. But obviously don't go in there after a bunch of new snow has fallen or when it's hot (or following a sharp warming trend after a bunch of precip). I have seen massive slush avalanche debris at the base of the gulley several times. Â Warm winds up high will also knock down very large chunks of rime (and often newly-exposed rock) on you all day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b-rock Posted March 9, 2004 Share Posted March 9, 2004 wow, a glimpse into the future... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashw_justin Posted March 9, 2004 Share Posted March 9, 2004 (or following a sharp warming trend after a bunch of precip) Â Forgive my confusion, but it seems like you are describing this week's conditions... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rodchester Posted March 10, 2004 Share Posted March 10, 2004 (or following a sharp warming trend after a bunch of precip)  Forgive my confusion, but it seems like you are describing this week's conditions...  I'd say there is a warming trend, but not really warm...and by week's end, the precipitation will have been over with by more than a few days. With freezing temps at night, get an early start and you should be fine.  Weather at Timberline  I'd say this could be an excellent weekend on Hood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashw_justin Posted March 10, 2004 Share Posted March 10, 2004 (edited) Oh, that's more like it... freezing at night I mean. NWS is forecasting a freezing level of 11000' (?!) Wednesday night. Â http://www.srh.noaa.gov/data/forecasts/ORZ011.php?warnzone=ORZ011&warncounty=ORC027 Â Edited March 10, 2004 by ashw_justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rodchester Posted March 10, 2004 Share Posted March 10, 2004 Looks like the two forecasts disagree. That's wazzzup. Â Yep, the NWS even says 11000 ft. on Saturday night. But Intellicast says in the mid 20s F at Timberline. Â I saw something on the news last night about how inaccurate the NWS is against many of the private run weather services. I wonder if this is what they were talking about? Â I guess we'll see..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rodchester Posted March 10, 2004 Share Posted March 10, 2004 Could be an inversion??? Either way looks it could be a sweet weekend for climbing/skiing...whatever. Of course there is still plenty of time for it to change.  I don't know. It does seem wierd that the forecasts are SO different.  I surfed by the forecasts again and they are still radically different. I also surfed by The Weather Channel and it seems to agree with Intellicast.  Anyone got any opinions or observations of weather forecasting services?  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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