Belay Devices?

[scrambled_legs]

I dropped my ATC and need to replace it. I have only owned an ATC and a figure 8 and have no complaints with either. I was just wondering if there was anything out there more versatile than an ATC that I should consider. I'd be using it for cragging, alpine and ice. Any Suggestions?

[Stephen_Ramsey]

Petzl Reverso is pretty nice.

[SmokeShow]

Seems like this thread is better suited for 'Gear Critic'

 

I found this browsing the forum recently... it should help.

 

Belay Devices

[Rodchester]

I lost my ATC last year...I looked at lots of devices and came right back to the ATC. Simple, easy, lightweight...and proven.

[tomtom]

Munter hitch.

[scrambled_legs]

Thanks Smoke Show... I just about quoted that old post, I guess I'm not the only one with bad luck.

 

The B-52 sounds like a pretty popular unit. I've used many B-52's and found the response was satisfying, but that was at the bar after dropping my ATC.

 

Are they a new copycat of the Reverso? I've never even heard of one before reading that post.

[Thrill]

reverso

[Greg_W]

ATC - simple, easy. I would like to get one of those ATC-type devices someone's making for thinner ropes.

[scrambled_legs]

I've heard about the same durability problems with the reverso. I just found the sight for Trango's B-52. It sounds and looks like a pretty good product but of coarse thats the company talking.

 

Anyone have any bad experiences with a B-52??

[ken4ord]

Reverso, does everything a ATC does and more. Handles skinny ropes just fine too.

[minx]

i use an atc and reverso. i like my atc better for some things. it handles a little smoother than the reverso if you're lowering someone and it seems like it's a little smoother to rap with.

 

the reverso is great for having 2 people following. i like it b/c you can set it up to autolock if your second falls by adding another carabiner.

 

i haven't had problems with skinny ropes with either one.

[chucK]

Anyone have any bad experiences with a B-52??

 

oops, fixed?

Lots of Vietnamese, Laoatians, and Iraqis have.

Edited February 24, 2004 by chucK

[fern]

there is a potential for the B-52 to fail to lockup in autolocking mode when the brake biner flips a certain way ... I think snoboy could provide more info.

[scrambled_legs]

corn

[TimL]

I like a regular/ATC style belay device for cragging. I prefer the Reverso for multi-pitch routes. I would own both if I were you. I don't like the Reverso for an all around device because I think it’s harder to feed out rope as well as bulkier. I like a more precise device when I'm belaying. Especially if someone is on a hard pitch. On the other hand, there is nothing better than having a Reverso on multi-pitch climbs.

[Alpinfox]

Sport climbing: Doesn't really matter, ATC or GriGri

Multipitch climbing: Munter, Reverso, or B52 (haven't used the latter)

Aid climbing: GriGri! (freakin two-hour belays!)

 

For multipitch climbing, I really like the ability to belay two followers simultaneously. I also really like the autoblock feature so I can attach it directly to the anchor and if my follower falls, they don't jerk me around. The reverso does get sharp edges pretty quickly, which is a concern. When my reverso wears out, I will definately look into the B52 and any other device that allows dual belay and autoblocks. Reverso also doesn't handle two thick ropes very well. I wonder if the B52 is better in this regard?

[Peter_Puget]

Anyone have any bad experiences with a B-52??

 

Lots of Japanese, Germans, Italians, North Koreans, Vietnamese and Laoatians have.

 

Japanese? Germans?

[Alpinfox]

 

 

I don't think we have bombed any Japanese, Germans, or Italians since 1952.

[Peter_Puget]

Go small. Less stuff to get in the way. Check out the bug!

 

[PaulB]

I use an ATC, and for multi-pitch also carry a plaquette (Kong Gi-Gi). I find this to be a versatile combination. Yes, I have to carry two devices, and an extra locker to use the plaquette, but it works for me.

[catbirdseat]

Japanese? Germans?

That would be the B-29 and the B-17, respectively. Those devices are both obsolete.

[ken4ord]

Nice PP you almost have all your pride colors there.

[iain]

Yeah I agree on the reverso deal. It can lock on you when you try to feed out a lot of rope fast to a leader who is making a desperate clip. It also clangs around a lot compared to an ATC, and definitely wears fast if you don't reverse it from time to time to prevent that "knifeblade" from forming on the rim. Very useful for multipitch stuff, but if you can afford an ATC as well I think that's a good way to go.

[sk]

I lost my ATC last year...I looked at lots of devices and came right back to the ATC. Simple, easy, lightweight...and proven.

I agree

[Ryan]

I've used the B-52, ATC, and Reverso equal amounts, and now the only device I carry with me is the Reverso. It's so simple to use, and the autoblock option is nice for crevasse rescue situations- I know that the B-52 can autoblock, but the Reverso is just so easy.