Jopa Posted February 21, 2004 Posted February 21, 2004 Has anyone climbed there recently? I was there a month ago and the place was soaked. With the last couple of days being dry, and tomorrow looking to be 50 and sunny I'm thinking it might be on. Grazie Quote
erik Posted February 21, 2004 Posted February 21, 2004 skycabins.com no rain in the last 24hrs and you should be good to go. Quote
Jopa Posted February 22, 2004 Author Posted February 22, 2004 skycabins.com This page is awesome. Dank you!! Quote
Billygoat Posted February 22, 2004 Posted February 22, 2004 Hope you made it up there this weekend. Supposed to start raining again. Went up with Hilweasel Friday and pretty much had the place to ourselves. Only a few people on Lower Town Wall. The sun was wonderful! Heading down from night skiing later, I noticed quite a few cars turning into Index. Bet it was crowded yesterday and today. Quote
Jopa Posted February 23, 2004 Author Posted February 23, 2004 Saturday was a good day to be at Index! Quote
Peter_Puget Posted February 23, 2004 Posted February 23, 2004 Well Ms. Minx just where is your TR? PP Quote
minx Posted February 23, 2004 Posted February 23, 2004 CLIMB: Great Northen Slab. Various routes to the anchors DATE: Sunny Sunday Afternoon. TRIP REPORT: unable to secure babysitter for the whole day so i settled for an afternoon in the sun at index. great northen slab was sunny and conveniently located. went with a major goal in mind: find a placement for my new .75 camalot. mission accomplished on the first pitch so moved on to new challenges. climbed some stuff. worked on tan. laughed. good partner. met some nice people. hi sam and jason got circled by a wayward bat who apparently couldn't find it's way back to the roof pitch. climbed some more. GEAR: a few nuts, a cam or two, rope, slings and oreos APPROACH NOTES: just the way i like it: quick and easy Quote
ScottP Posted February 23, 2004 Posted February 23, 2004 On Saturday I bouldered around the base of the Cheeks and the Earwax walls. Found a hidden face below the left Cheek that needs a good scrubbing. If you are standing below the western start to the Perverse Traverse (where it comes out of the cave) and are looking away from the wall, you will see a gunsight shaped rock with a large conifer growing out of the opening. The other side of this is the top of the mentioned face. Steep and featured. Quote
Alpinfox Posted February 23, 2004 Posted February 23, 2004 AlpineDave and I climbed at lower town wall on Saturday. It was sunny and warm. This chimney (Dave leading) kicked my ass: Quote
colt45 Posted February 23, 2004 Posted February 23, 2004 I was there too! Climbed: *Thin Fingers (even took a fall onto an RP--a reminder that it can be good to warm up on something easier...!--then took 2 more laps on TR for redemption), then *GM to Heart of the Country (the 11a finish is quite possibly the softest 5.11 crack ever, unless I misread the topo?), followed by *some 7-bolt 11a with a balancy high-step crux at bolt #3, to *the upper pitch of Kite Flying Blind (I couldn't get the crux section clean, it's pretty tenuous). The weather was ridiculously nice, and all the snow in the surrounding mountains made for a super-dramatic setting. And the rock was perfectly dry, with just a bit of residual moss. I hope we have a few more days like that in the near future!! Quote
dbb Posted February 24, 2004 Posted February 24, 2004 I look like I just stuck my hand into something wet... oh wait, I did! And the rock was perfectly dry, with just a bit of residual moss. you thought the approach ramp to GM was dry? Man, I'd hate to see that thing "wet"! Anyone have tips for getting past the downsloping moss? the "10c" direct approach looks better than the "3rd class" Quote
colt45 Posted February 24, 2004 Posted February 24, 2004 yeah, it wasn't bad. There were pine needles and such, but by stepping carefully I was able to maintain decent footing. My climbing partner suggested adding a whisk broom to the recommended rack for this route! Quote
bigwalling Posted February 24, 2004 Posted February 24, 2004 Scott, were you the guy with head phones and by yourself? 1st pitch Abraxas A1, kinda dirty with good gear except for 2 manky fixed pins. Moved slower than ever! Guys on Davis Holland were haveing alot more fun. Quote
ScottP Posted February 24, 2004 Posted February 24, 2004 Scott, were you the guy with head phones and by yourself? (snip) That sounds like me. Quote
erik Posted February 25, 2004 Posted February 25, 2004 scott, wallstain and i have scouted and tr'd some routes on that wall about 3 years ago. we climbed thru the "gunsight" notch as well. there are even pics somewhere on this site. we called the wall "rock monkey wall" we kinda wanted to go back and finnish the routeds with hardware, but have been side tracked ever since. Quote
ScottP Posted February 25, 2004 Posted February 25, 2004 From my views, it looked pretty steep. What kind of ratings did you figure for the climbing you did? Quote
TimL Posted February 26, 2004 Posted February 26, 2004 I was there too! Climbed: *Thin Fingers (even took a fall onto an RP--a reminder that it can be good to warm up on something easier...!--then took 2 more laps on TR for redemption), then *GM to Heart of the Country (the 11a finish is quite possibly the softest 5.11 crack ever, unless I misread the topo?), followed by *some 7-bolt 11a with a balancy high-step crux at bolt #3, to *the upper pitch of Kite Flying Blind (I couldn't get the crux section clean, it's pretty tenuous). The weather was ridiculously nice, and all the snow in the surrounding mountains made for a super-dramatic setting. And the rock was perfectly dry, with just a bit of residual moss. I hope we have a few more days like that in the near future!! I think the 3 bolt climb you did is called Phone Calls from the Dead. Fun climibng to a hard crux right below the anchors. I think I protected it with a 5 or 6 BD nut. Great route. The upper crux of Kite Flying Blind is so hard. It has totally stumped me on a number of occasions. Still. an amazing route in a good position. I can't wait to climb at Index in the sun! Quote
colt45 Posted February 27, 2004 Posted February 27, 2004 I looked up that first bolted pitch, it is actually called Frank Presley. The 'official' first pitch of Kite, just to its left, looked really blank! Quote
TimL Posted February 28, 2004 Posted February 28, 2004 There are 2 bolted routes right there. If I remember right, Frank Presly has 1 hard, awkward move then it eases off. Try Zoom and Wham. Both are pretty good. On the upper wall, you got to do Heavens Gates. Its a great route in a fine position. Quote
bobbyperu Posted February 28, 2004 Posted February 28, 2004 yeah do heavens gate for sure! great route!-bp Quote
ScottP Posted March 3, 2004 Posted March 3, 2004 When I was up there weekend before last, I noticed the bridge from the RR tracks to the trail to Private Idaho/Diamond/Beyond was floating in a beaver pond. Is that a yearly occurence? (I don't remember that happening in the past.) Quote
Greg_W Posted March 3, 2004 Posted March 3, 2004 When I was up there weekend before last, I noticed the bridge from the RR tracks to the trail to Private Idaho/Diamond/Beyond was floating in a beaver pond. Is that a yearly occurence? (I don't remember that happening in the past.) Yep. Last year it was floating pretty good early in the year. Quote
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