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Jopa

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Hope you made it up there this weekend. Supposed to start raining again. Went up with Hilweasel Friday and pretty much had the place to ourselves. Only a few people on Lower Town Wall. The sun was wonderful! Heading down from night skiing later, I noticed quite a few cars turning into Index. Bet it was crowded yesterday and today.

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CLIMB: Great Northen Slab. Various routes to the anchors

 

DATE: Sunny Sunday Afternoon.

 

TRIP REPORT: unable to secure babysitter for the whole day so i settled for an afternoon in the sun at index. great northen slab was sunny and conveniently located. went with a major goal in mind: find a placement for my new .75 camalot. mission accomplished on the first pitch so moved on to new challenges.

 

climbed some stuff. worked on tan. laughed. good partner. met some nice people. hi sam and jason wave.gif got circled by a wayward bat who apparently couldn't find it's way back to the roof pitch. climbed some more.

 

GEAR: a few nuts, a cam or two, rope, slings and oreos

APPROACH NOTES: just the way i like it: quick and easy

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On Saturday I bouldered around the base of the Cheeks and the Earwax walls. Found a hidden face below the left Cheek that needs a good scrubbing. If you are standing below the western start to the Perverse Traverse (where it comes out of the cave) and are looking away from the wall, you will see a gunsight shaped rock with a large conifer growing out of the opening. The other side of this is the top of the mentioned face. Steep and featured.

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I was there too! Climbed:

 

*Thin Fingers (even took a fall onto an RP--a reminder that it can be good to warm up on something easier...!--then took 2 more laps on TR for redemption), then

*GM to Heart of the Country (the 11a finish is quite possibly the softest 5.11 crack ever, unless I misread the topo?), followed by

*some 7-bolt 11a with a balancy high-step crux at bolt #3, to

*the upper pitch of Kite Flying Blind (I couldn't get the crux section clean, it's pretty tenuous).

 

The weather was ridiculously nice, and all the snow in the surrounding mountains made for a super-dramatic setting. And the rock was perfectly dry, with just a bit of residual moss. I hope we have a few more days like that in the near future!!

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I look like I just stuck my hand into something wet... oh wait, I did!

 

 

 

And the rock was perfectly dry, with just a bit of residual moss.

 

you thought the approach ramp to GM was dry? Man, I'd hate to see that thing "wet"! Anyone have tips for getting past the downsloping moss? the "10c" direct approach looks better than the "3rd class"

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scott, wallstain and i have scouted and tr'd some routes on that wall about 3 years ago. we climbed thru the "gunsight" notch as well. there are even pics somewhere on this site.

 

we called the wall "rock monkey wall" we kinda wanted to go back and finnish the routeds with hardware, but have been side tracked ever since.

 

bigdrink.gif

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I was there too! Climbed:

 

*Thin Fingers (even took a fall onto an RP--a reminder that it can be good to warm up on something easier...!--then took 2 more laps on TR for redemption), then

*GM to Heart of the Country (the 11a finish is quite possibly the softest 5.11 crack ever, unless I misread the topo?), followed by

*some 7-bolt 11a with a balancy high-step crux at bolt #3, to

*the upper pitch of Kite Flying Blind (I couldn't get the crux section clean, it's pretty tenuous).

 

The weather was ridiculously nice, and all the snow in the surrounding mountains made for a super-dramatic setting. And the rock was perfectly dry, with just a bit of residual moss. I hope we have a few more days like that in the near future!!

 

I think the 3 bolt climb you did is called Phone Calls from the Dead. Fun climibng to a hard crux right below the anchors. I think I protected it with a 5 or 6 BD nut. Great route.

 

The upper crux of Kite Flying Blind is so hard. It has totally stumped me on a number of occasions. Still. an amazing route in a good position.

 

I can't wait to climb at Index in the sun! bigdrink.gif

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When I was up there weekend before last, I noticed the bridge from the RR tracks to the trail to Private Idaho/Diamond/Beyond was floating in a beaver pond.

 

Is that a yearly occurence? (I don't remember that happening in the past.)

 

Yep. Last year it was floating pretty good early in the year.

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