chucK Posted March 3, 2004 Share Posted March 3, 2004 Yep it was like that last year, but I don't remember it being a "floater" before that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted March 3, 2004 Share Posted March 3, 2004 (edited) I can't believe there were only like four people at Index yesterday. It was amazing out. Dry granite. Warm sun. It was great seeing Dberdinka, slothrop and folks at Index. Solo aided 10%. Slothrop offered a belay so we warmed up on Iron Horse. I know its the beginning of the season and my first lead on rock in five months, but I'm pissed I fell at the crux. I havn't fallen there in ages. Enough ranting. Then did Jap Gardens short and then both pitches of Thin Fingers. Index rocks! Also, just a quick note. Narrow Arrow Direct, as I understand, goes free at 12+. Although the guide labels the climb at A2 11b, the climb goes clean and I've done most of it clean. I say most because I was solo aiding it a year ago and ran out of gear at the free climbing bolts and lowered off. I also have a friend who has climbed it clean. Please don't pound pins. Edited March 3, 2004 by TimL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted March 4, 2004 Share Posted March 4, 2004 So the upper scection has "free climbing" bolts? That first pitch is mostly 11 with good rests, but that top...uff da! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted March 4, 2004 Share Posted March 4, 2004 If my memory serves me correct and from what a friend told me, the two free climbing bolts on the upper part replaced two old pins. I haven't tried to "free" it yet on lead. Might give it a shot this year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted March 4, 2004 Share Posted March 4, 2004 That line deserves hella respect, the transition from a classic aid climb to all star free climb is due. Folks can still aid this, sans hammer. Best of luck on your climb! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted March 4, 2004 Share Posted March 4, 2004 When I was up there weekend before last, I noticed the bridge from the RR tracks to the trail to Private Idaho/Diamond/Beyond was floating in a beaver pond. Is that a yearly occurence? (I don't remember that happening in the past.) Yep. Last year it was floating pretty good early in the year. Is the old upper town wall trail still an option to circumvent the pond, or is there another way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted March 4, 2004 Share Posted March 4, 2004 When I was up there weekend before last, I noticed the bridge from the RR tracks to the trail to Private Idaho/Diamond/Beyond was floating in a beaver pond. Is that a yearly occurence? (I don't remember that happening in the past.) Yep. Last year it was floating pretty good early in the year. Is the old upper town wall trail still an option to circumvent the pond, or is there another way? Trip your partner, and then step on their pack and hop to the other side? Maybe throw an extra pair of shorts and a shirt in your pack if you plan on this, then the climbing day isn't wasted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted March 4, 2004 Share Posted March 4, 2004 You can still cross that bridge, though, and if you play your cards right you may not get a soaker out of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted March 5, 2004 Share Posted March 5, 2004 If you play your cards right you can get a nice beaver skin vest out of this.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted March 5, 2004 Share Posted March 5, 2004 You can still cross that bridge, though, and if you play your cards right you may not get a soaker out of it. The day I was there it was colder than a well diggers ass and when I put my foot on that bridge, it did little more than move toward the opposite bank. I weren't taking any chances with the "tread light and fast" approach. I went for the round the upper wall trail to the diamond gully variation, but the grovel through the dihedral flake looked mighty uninviting that day as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted March 14, 2004 Share Posted March 14, 2004 Met MisterE in the Index lot on a beautiful, sunny, Saturday morning and got some "peaches" in. First we did GM, with the 10b handcrack variation on the third pitch. Me leading the variation: That handcrack is fantastic! From the anchors atop that pitich we toproped "Phone Calls from the Dead", but we both got shut down by the 11a/b mantle just below the chains. MisterE then led "Sagiscarius": which was a first time for me, but old hat for the seasoned MisterE. He led it in fine style, though he left a good portion of his rack on the ground, forcing him to stop at the second anchor. So we missed out on about 20ft of steep hand crack bidness, oh well. I led the first pitch of Japanese Gardens next and got spanked on the upper wide crack because I didn't think of LAYBACKING! Laybacking on lead is weird, and I usually try to avoid it, but it seems the best approach on that pitch. We then met up with SpecialEd and GaperJeff who had a TR set up on Zoom. MisterE and I each took a ride and then we all retreated to the parking lot for ceremonial beers and mosquito sacrifices (yes, they have arrived). Thanks to MisterE, SpecialEd, and GaperJeff for a great day! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted March 14, 2004 Share Posted March 14, 2004 It was a rockin'good time for sure! Index is the place for early season spankage, just to remind you how out of shape you have gotten over the winter. Good to see folks again! Thanks for the great day, AF! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted March 15, 2004 Share Posted March 15, 2004 There's a good line we did yesterday on Rattletale wall called Chasin' the Lizard. Check it out if you have not..... Here's my photo of the crack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MisterMo Posted March 26, 2004 Share Posted March 26, 2004 When I was up there weekend before last, I noticed the bridge from the RR tracks to the trail to Private Idaho/Diamond/Beyond was floating in a beaver pond. Is that a yearly occurence? (I don't remember that happening in the past.) No, the beavers have been busy. They've got a pretty cool chain of dams in that little system. My back yard now goes under water much more than in the past as well. Watch for the wood ducks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted March 26, 2004 Share Posted March 26, 2004 There was some serious blowdown at the base of GM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted March 26, 2004 Share Posted March 26, 2004 It seemed like there used to be a tree at the base of cunning stunt. Or was it just a big pile of sticker bushes? If you move the floating bridge to the right (facing the trail from the RR tracks) it'll sit on some rocks that were probably placed there as a bridge abbutment. Then you don't have to hike up with wet feet or try to dance across the Beaver dam and bushwack back up to the trail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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