sk Posted February 20, 2004 Posted February 20, 2004 No one has pointed out in their sagely advice, that falling is fucking scary. It is very good to practice falling. If I fall on route, i actually climb better cuz I'm more relaxed cuz I know I'm not gonna die. Still pretty fucking scary though! It's not a natural thing your mind wants you to do I LOVE YOU Quote
sk Posted February 20, 2004 Posted February 20, 2004 then buy me a new cam please whens your b-day?? Quote
sk Posted February 20, 2004 Posted February 20, 2004 damn it.. now I can't get out of practicing falling at the gym tonight Quote
sk Posted February 20, 2004 Posted February 20, 2004 (edited) Jason. I think that my bigest climbing fault so to say is that I have been over caustious. I don't plan on dying. thank you for your concern. let me add that I think my other big climbing fault was letting other people have controle of the rack and the direction of my climbing. I didn't pay that close attention because I had a built in ropegun. it was fun but I didn't take charge of MY climbing... so now I have alot to learn. Edited February 20, 2004 by Muffy_The_Wanker_Sprayer Quote
cracked Posted February 20, 2004 Posted February 20, 2004 I like ice climbing because falling isn't a realistic option. Quote
dylan_taylor Posted February 20, 2004 Posted February 20, 2004 It seems like half the cams on my rack ought to have "black tape" on them but they are on my rack anyway and I've fallen a bunch of times on some of those pieces. A few of them are one's I found below el cap, etc... and several others have been dropped by either myself or my partner. Although there are no guarantees, since there is such little actual data on this subject, I'd say your cam is fine. What size is it? The bigger it is, the more concerned I would be, because the force on impact would be higher. Butt little cams I wouldn't even think twice about. I had a friend who was a metalurgist and hard climber till he was killed in a climbing accident (not from gear failure). He explained his whole philosophy of dropped gear to me in a very scientific way that I'll never be able to remember. The gist of it is that certain grades of aluminum are chosen by climbing equipment manufacturers because they are strong, light, and very ductile. Ductile metal, for one thing, is easy to shape and bend at room temperatures. Anything can behave elastically and rupture under enough stress, but the grades of aluminum used in climbing gear rarely ever see those levels of stress. On a cam that falls a long way, a lot of the stress is acomodated by ductile strain in the form of mushrooming at the corner. The danger spots in aluminum gear are where two kinds of metal meet under pressure, such as the steel pins driven into the gates of carabiners. Thats where lots of stress fractures are often found. The steel axel on a cam is not driven into the cam lobe under pressure. Its actually a loose fit, so I would think that cams have a lower risk, however, if I wanted to find a crack, thats where I would look - where the cam lobe meets the axel. The moral is, junk the gear if it stresses you out on lead. I'll use it. Climbing is all about managing risk in a physical world, but it is also, of course, about quieting the inner demons. If I have to think twice about any of my gear on lead, I junk it. But, its the soft goods that sketch me out the most. I am and always will be more afraid of failure of webbing or cord (because of hidden chemical damage, UV, or whatever) than I will be of failure of anything metal on my rack. They chose that metal for a reason. Its fucking durable. Quote
layton Posted February 20, 2004 Author Posted February 20, 2004 Thanks D. It was a green .75 junior and the lobe didn't totally mushroom, just the corner of one of the lobes got nicked about 1mm's worth of damage. I'll do a fx 2 fall w/a haul bag next chance I get. Quote
Dru Posted February 20, 2004 Posted February 20, 2004 Why not just bounce test it couple times with a solid trusted cam below ya. If it holds a big ass jumpin up n down in your aiders rave up it will probably hold a fall. Quote
layton Posted February 20, 2004 Author Posted February 20, 2004 History is Made: Dru just gave out adivice that was not only helpful, but also a good idea as well. Quote
Bill_Simpkins Posted February 20, 2004 Posted February 20, 2004 E-mail the factory and ask them what they think. To tell you the truth, I personally would just put it in an aid rack for C0-C1 stuff. It's not worth it to take the chance or to have that doubt if your about to peel off and that thing is 5 feet below you. The cam that broke in Vantage a while back comes to mind. They can break. Dru had a good idea to bounce test it, but still I personally would get wigged-out free climbing above it. Quote
dylan_taylor Posted February 20, 2004 Posted February 20, 2004 If you email the factory, they`ll tell you what their lawyers tell them to tell you. And guess what that will be. The cam that broke in vantage was an anomaly because a static rope was used to lead on, wasn't it? Or at least thats the rumor I heard. Mike, When I get up there this summer, lets take one of my old junk ropes and give that .75 a 400 foot F2 fall with your haulbag! It will be fun! We'll get some video! Quote
layton Posted February 20, 2004 Author Posted February 20, 2004 oh look, baby's talking his first steps Quote
dylan_taylor Posted February 20, 2004 Posted February 20, 2004 oh look, baby's taking his first steps Honey, look at his welded knot! That is so darling. Quote
catbirdseat Posted February 20, 2004 Posted February 20, 2004 The cam that broke in vantage was an anomaly because a static rope was used to lead on, wasn't it? Or at least thats the rumor I heard. No, that's not correct. Let's put that rumor to rest. Quote
dylan_taylor Posted February 20, 2004 Posted February 20, 2004 (edited) I've been out of the loop for over a year. What was the latest explanation? OK, oops, my previous post regarding vantage was written in ignorance. I did a search for the vantage accident, and I was re-reminded that no cam broke anyway - only a biner. So I guess the mention of a broken cam was irrelevant anyway? -as far as trusting dropped cams. Edited February 20, 2004 by dylan_taylor Quote
texplorer Posted February 20, 2004 Posted February 20, 2004 Some things have been said about what I have said in the past. Well here are my views. 1) I agree with RuMr on the ways to climb 2) Muffy, you need to force yourself to start leading harder sport climbs. No wimping out! Also you need to do a little aiding to give yourself confidence in your gear placements. 3) Finally if your not falling on gear you found at the base of El Cap, then your not keeping it real. And there is nothing wrong with not keeping it real. 4) If snafflehounds are good enough for fred B. then there good enough for me. 5) Think less, solo more 6) The portland rock gym is very expensive but there is a hot young chick working there. Quote
RuMR Posted February 20, 2004 Posted February 20, 2004 6) The portland rock gym is very expensive but there is a hot young chick working there. #6 is by far the best way to IMMEDIATELY improve one's climbing ability!!! Quote
layton Posted February 20, 2004 Author Posted February 20, 2004 7.) there are 4 hot chicks working there, the young one is jailbait my friend. she was bouldering in her bra last night (not a sportsbra) and had the look of recent fake n' bake action. Quote
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