Rainier Climbing Permits...?

[Ryan]

I'm planning a trip to Rainier in May, and I have never been to the area before...what (if any) steps need to be taken to secure a climbing permit? How far in advance should I plan on getting the permit...and is there a cost? I'm sure this question has been asked countless times...thanks for putting up with it!

[Alex_Mineev]

Which route?

If from Paradise then call ranger station at Longmire. You can probably register with them by phone.

In reality I think you can just stop by Longmire and get all the documents in place. May is not the busiest month (compared to July-August). They accept visa. $30 for calendar year permit.

[Mark_Husbands]

http://www.nps.gov/mora/recreation/rsvpform.htm

[Ryan]

Excellent, thanks for the info guys...so let me get this straight then- besides the flat rate, there is a 20 dollar fee for each climb? Or does the 20 dollar fee cover the 2 weeks that it mentions, which means that I would be able to climb the 2 or 3 routes that I had planned? Thanks again!

[fenderfour]

$30 flat rate for the whole year. No extra charge for extra climbs. You do have to show up at the ranger station to get a permit on the day of your climb. The second permit is free, but they do issue limited numbers of permits for the various camps (or camp locations)

[Rodchester]

Besdies the $20.00 reservation fee and the $30.00 climb fee, you also have to pay to getinto the park..i guess you'd call it an entrance fee. Its per vehicle.

[Alasdair]

Or just get there late night on Friday and there is no entrance fee.

[Ryan]

Cool...would it be wise to reserve a permit for the month of May, or are there not enough climbers then to worry about it?

[To_The_Top]

Which route are you thinking of going up?

[Ryan]

There are four of us going, two of which have not had much mountain experience, but are experienced climbers. We'll be doing the DC route with them, and then they'll head down and my other partner and I plan to remain at Muir and climb the Gibralter Chute route after the DC route. Then, conditions permitting, we might go for Liberty Ridge seeing as how we'll have experienced the descent already. We plan on being in the Cascades for 2 full weeks, so that should give us enough time to tick off those routes...what do you all think?

[Alasdair]

Wishfull thinking. Have you ever been to the northwest in May? You might climb them all, or you might climb nothing. If I was you I would come up with a couple of backup plans on the east side of the mountains. Take a look at some of the stuff on DragonTail Peak, Colchuck Peak, or Mt. Stuart, as weather bail out options. The climbings better on them anyway.

[To_The_Top]

Well depending on weather Muir could be full (also depending on day, weekdays are better) True, it could still be winter up there in May.

[catbirdseat]

How do you plan to get from Camp Muir to the Carbon Glacier? You could decend to the Wonderland Trail. You could pick up a cache at White River. Or you could do a traverse of the Emmons from Muir to Camp Schurman. You could probably beg enough food off of descending climbers for Liberty Ridge . I suppose you could instead do a carry over on your Gib Ledges to Schurman too.

[Blake]

You have 2 weeks in the PNW and you are doing rainier 3 times?

[scott_harpell]

Yeah. I would heed some of the other's suggestions about mabe seeing which day the weather is best on ranier and doing a route then and climb in the north cascades around that. Smaller peaks, but outrageously great climbing.

[Stefan]

There are four of us going, two of which have not had much mountain experience, but are experienced climbers. We'll be doing the DC route with them, and then they'll head down and my other partner and I plan to remain at Muir and climb the Gibralter Chute route after the DC route. Then, conditions permitting, we might go for Liberty Ridge seeing as how we'll have experienced the descent already. We plan on being in the Cascades for 2 full weeks, so that should give us enough time to tick off those routes...what do you all think?

 

In my opinion....forget Rainier altogether. Go to the North Cascades. Do Dome, Forbidden, Logan, or Spickard.

[Blake]

Or all 4 and then a few more!

[eternalX]

or go hit olympus for another glacier climb through beautiful rain forest.

[Pencil_Pusher]

or go hit olympus for another glacier climb through beautiful rain forest.

Yeah, then they'd have thirteen days to do other climbs

[Ryan]

Thanks for the pointers...catbirdseat, our plan was to do the DC and Gib Ledges route and then come back down to Paradise and head over and take the White River approach (I believe that's the one?) to Liberty Ridge. Some of you are probably right though- this plan may be a bit too ambitious. If it were my call we'd head straight for Liberty Ridge, but the DC is the route that suits the majority's ability and ambition. Unfortunate. One of my partners is game for more technical routes, though, so we may look at scrapping any shot at Rainier altogether and doing some other peaks. Is the DC worth my time seeing as how it's the only route I can do with my friends and still get to the summit? I'm completely unfamiliar with the PNW, so any and all advice is appreciated.

[Rodchester]

Just getting up Rainier once is cool...Granted, not a technical challenge via the DC, but pretty cool none the less. It is unlike anything else in the States (except maybe the other PNW volcanoes).

 

With two weeks you should have time to do the DC and then have plenty of time to do other peaks. There is soo much around here. Assuming you can lead alpine rock there are many cool and fun routes on cool and fun peaks with all levels of diffculty.

 

If you just want to focus on the volcanoes, then why not doa PNW volcano tour? Start at Baker and work your way south.

[Ryan]

Good point...any recommendations for moderate range alpine rock routes (up to 5.9)?

[Rodchester]

I'm sure most here would agree the North Ridge of Stuart which is a grade IV 5.9. It is a fair amount of pitches, about 15 with a handfull of pitches going at 5.8 - 5.9. It can be done by skipping these "gendarme" pitches making it a bit easier.

 

For something easier in the same area, but very fun, maybe do a traverse of the three Ingals peaks. This is 5.7 with most of it being low fifth and some scrambling.

 

Both are in a beautiful setting.

 

Maybe West Ridge of Forbidden Peak = 5.6 Grade II-III, 50 degree snow, some glacier travel

 

Maybe East Ridge of Forbidden Peak = 5.8 Grade II.

 

Washington Pass has some GREAT "alpine crag" climbing where you can car camp at night and hit some amazing climbing by day. Really, the routes there range from easy classic to stout and challenging classics. A can't miss area in my opinion.

 

Look at some books (Beckey's Cascade Alpine Guides and Nelson Selected Climbs in the Cascades) and generate a list. Then post your list seeking feedback. You'll get plenty of beta and opnions.

 

I really think you should consider doing Rainier and then fan out and hit the North Cascades. There is SOOO much more here than Rainier. And may the permit situation is good, because many North Cascades area don't consider that time of year as high season.

 

2 cents.

 

Anyone have any other peaks or areas to suggest?

Edited February 23, 2004 by Rodchester

[Ryan]

Awesome, thanks for the advice. I'll look into it.