Dru Posted February 23, 2004 Share Posted February 23, 2004 snaffle infested bivi on a lonely pagetop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted February 23, 2004 Share Posted February 23, 2004 Selected Climbs list the ledge at the top of 5 as a bivy spot. Have slept on this ledge, I would not recommend it at all! It is actually two small ledges: one is roughly 4 square feet and the other is maybe 18 inches wide and 5 feet long so one partner gets to sleep upright all night while the other repeats the matra “don’t roll over” in ones sleep. Both are removed from the belay anchor so one has to run a long loop from the anchor or use some existing pins. Rapping down to I believe what people are calling triangle ledge is also an option. Assuming you run 6 and 7 together (recommended), ¾ of the way through pitch 8 you will see two rusty coffin nails (quarter inchers) to the left. One could rap off these, but if you continue through pitch 9 and into the start of pitch 9 (easily accomplished with 60 meter rope), you can use the first tree you reach as a belay anchor/rap point. It will land you directly on the ledge and the tree is way more bomber to leave a line fixed to (with ample number 2 and 3 camalot placements next to the tree) than the coffin nails. I slept on this ledge years ago and found two aliens and a nut someone had dropped off the route above. Roomy (monstrous if compared to the one at the top of 5) in size. A good spot if you are in search of a fun wall bivy. With that said, I would recommend you just avoid bivying all together. Chances are if you plan on bivying, you will haul and hauling especially on the upper pitches sucks! Even if you get the pig through all the brush and trees that litter pitches 9 and 10 without getting it stuck, some will need to hump throught the 4th class section to the top. Suck. If you insist on hauling, don’t let the second jug above the pig or plan on rapping back down to free it numerous times. After climbing this route a few times, I think a good strategy for climbing it in a day is as follows: Day 1: Fix pitches 1 through 3 with two sixty-meter ropes. One can actually fix the first 4 pitches with two sixties and 4-6 aiders (manufactor dependent) chained together at the bottom of the second rope. This will allow (assuming on can lead 5.9 trad) one to leave all aid gear except for 1 pair of aiders for the one aid move at the start of pitch 8. Sleep at car. Day 2: Blast to the top. Assuming you fixed 1-3, you just have 7 pitches and some 4th between you and the top. If you are unsure you can climb that many pitches in a day, practice climbing Orbit and Outer Space comfortably in a half day. Other tips: Don’t park your car at the corner; the staters will tow you. Cam hooks will make the roof pitch a walk. Speaking of good bivy spots, the M&M ledge on Thin Red is thee best on all of Liberty Bell. The best bivy ledge I have ever slept on is the one 2/3 the way up North Norwegian Butt on Index. I think it had something to do with the fact I knew the aid was over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted February 23, 2004 Share Posted February 23, 2004 Was this a roundabout way to say you climbed the NNB on Index? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted February 23, 2004 Share Posted February 23, 2004 (edited) Just offering up some good N Cascade big wall bivy sites (oxymoron?)... no spray intended. Edited February 23, 2004 by NOLSe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted February 23, 2004 Share Posted February 23, 2004 As that was your 1st post, I felt it necessary to harass you. You should write a TR for that climb w/some pix. No one's climbed much around here this winter, so a good read would be nice. Sleese has to only "good" bivy site I've seen. except for the . I wouldn't bivy if I did it again, however. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted February 23, 2004 Share Posted February 23, 2004 Right on; I could use the harassment. As much as my partners whinnied about it; I insisted we do Sleese in a day to avoid the . I had a friend retire a new rope due to some serious bite marks from while climbing the route. What is the general feel/opinion about posting old trip reports? Based on the atmosphere of comments I have read here; I would expect to be accused of spraying about how rad I think I am. And lets be honest... I'm not. And what’s up with no TRs this winter? It’s been the best winter in years for alpine (at least down here). In fact, after waiting for through two winters for fatter conditions, I snagged the North Face of Thielsen. Oh crap… I’m spraying again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted February 23, 2004 Share Posted February 23, 2004 Old TR's are just fine, we all like a good story, and I imagine quite a few folks would like to hear about an ascent of the North Norweigan Buttress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurthicks Posted February 23, 2004 Share Posted February 23, 2004 I snagged the North Face of Thielsen. the cat's out of the bag now. i think you should post a tr of that one and stuff for the new version of Oregon High... good work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted February 23, 2004 Share Posted February 23, 2004 I often go out on climbs intending to bivy. I like practicing wall techniques, staying in shape, and sleeping in strange places. With all due respect to others who have posted here, I would not choose to car camp or hang out in a bar if Liberty crack were under my feet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted February 23, 2004 Share Posted February 23, 2004 This strategy seems rather contrived. It's not like you have to leave seattle trailing your gear on a bicycle. But if you want to cap off a climb of librty crack with a bivy on the summit, carry the gear up the route. Cacheing gear is fine for a PCT hike. But it seems the Gestalt of The experience would be lost in all the preparation in this instance. Climbing with a pack is unGestaltish sometimes too. If you cache your gear on the summit, and you get a little overconfident, it could be pretty funny if you ended up on a forced bivy a couple of pitches below your bivy gear . I think AlpineK will find bars less attractive once the novelty of being 21 wears off . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pastrami_noel Posted February 24, 2004 Share Posted February 24, 2004 IMO, fixing is a waste of time. We did it in ~9h because we got stuck behind some very slow parties, carrying the whole house with them. And I am no speed climber... The aid is straightforward, and the C2 is more like max C1-C1+ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted February 24, 2004 Share Posted February 24, 2004 stuff for the new version of Oregon High So are you saying a second version is slanted for print? I picked up my copy back in 95 right before they stopped printing them. After that, the only guidebook for Oregon was Jeff Smoot's Climbing the Cascade Volcanoes (and if compared to Oregon High was about as quality as the rock it wrote about... you know what they say down here: like the hold? take it with you). I saw recently Oregon High was back in print, though I didn't examine it closely. Is it at all different? Is a second edition slanted for print? What's the dope? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PONCHO&LEFTY Posted February 24, 2004 Share Posted February 24, 2004 Post that N.B. on Index report With pictures Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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