EWolfe Posted February 11, 2004 Share Posted February 11, 2004 I think it is a bad idea, even if it was only "used once". I took a factor four fall solo-aiding on a new rope at Smith once. After, it looked fine. Someone stole it out of my van a few days later, removing the quandry of "To use or not to use?". Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted February 11, 2004 Share Posted February 11, 2004 Factor four? How? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
griz Posted February 11, 2004 Share Posted February 11, 2004 Sounds like the scum that stole your rope has got some well deserved bad karma coming his way with the next fall on that rope... Nah, used is lame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted February 11, 2004 Author Share Posted February 11, 2004 (edited) 35 feet out an overhang, 20 foot fall on fixed anchor. Enough said? Toes Of The Fisherman Edited February 11, 2004 by MisterE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted February 11, 2004 Author Share Posted February 11, 2004 Sounds like the scum that stole your rope has got some well deserved bad karma coming his way with the next fall on that rope... Exactly what I thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted February 11, 2004 Share Posted February 11, 2004 yeah, I hope he dies! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dylan_taylor Posted February 11, 2004 Share Posted February 11, 2004 35 feet out an overhang, 20 foot fall on fixed anchor. Enough said? Toes Of The Fisherman 35 feet of rope, 20 foot fall, and a horizontal vector, thats 20/35 or fall factor of no more than 0.57. Perhaps all the details are not available here, but that's beside the point. I have tons of used ropes if anyone wants to buy them! I haven't figured out how to weave a rug out of them yet... Gear thieves are the lowest form of life. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terminal_Gravity Posted February 11, 2004 Share Posted February 11, 2004 Let's see...attach 20 feet of rope to a 20 foot cable...climb 40 feet and then fall 80. Voila! fall factor 4. Mister E, I think you should try to understand some of the basic principles of climbing before you lay claim to "fall factor 4's". Your rope was fine, your math ( and luck) were not. Sorry to hear you got ripped off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD_CILLEY Posted February 11, 2004 Share Posted February 11, 2004 If its a 9 I´ll buy it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted February 11, 2004 Author Share Posted February 11, 2004 I posted incorrectly, I meant to say Factor 2. I may still be wrong, but a 10mm rope on a fixed anchor with so little rope out...hell, I don't know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terminal_Gravity Posted February 11, 2004 Share Posted February 11, 2004 Yeah, your fall was on the hard side. My guess is that it was emotionally very hard...all non sport falls get the adreniline pumping. But really, it was a fall that the rope is designed to handle...so, in this case the crime won't carry a capital punishment. Stealing gear is truly one of the lowest things possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whirlwind Posted February 11, 2004 Share Posted February 11, 2004 i have a freind that makes chirs out of climbing ropes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted February 11, 2004 Share Posted February 11, 2004 We had this discussion before. The only way to exceed a Fall Factor of 2 is for the belayer to "Reel in the Leader" as he is falling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 11, 2004 Share Posted February 11, 2004 actually no, if you fell from 100 ft above the anchor to 100 ft below the anchor on a rope with an elongation of 7% then you would actually fall 207 ft. for a fall factor of 2.07 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted February 11, 2004 Share Posted February 11, 2004 Dru, you have succumbed to . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 11, 2004 Share Posted February 11, 2004 Dru, you have succumbed to . no it would have been geeky if i had computed the fall factor for 207/107 as well as 207/100 and determined which of these was appropriate measure based on definition of "length of fall/length of rope" if stretched length should count Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bunglehead Posted February 11, 2004 Share Posted February 11, 2004 OW! My brain!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted February 11, 2004 Share Posted February 11, 2004 Dru, you have succumbed to . no it would have been geeky if i had computed the fall factor for 207/107 as well as 207/100 and determined which of these was appropriate measure based on definition of "length of fall/length of rope" if stretched length should count I think that fall factor is calculated before stretch, so it makes it simple enough for the average joe to figure out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vegetablebelay Posted February 11, 2004 Share Posted February 11, 2004 Wasn't this a question on the rope survey? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lummox Posted February 12, 2004 Share Posted February 12, 2004 I posted incorrectly, I meant to say Factor 2. nice recovery. second hand ropes are great for setting up play equipment for children: swings and the like. they make trendy dog leashes. some people put em trailer boats but nylon sinks so i think its stupid. personally new ropes are an extravagance i feel i deserve. werd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terminal_Gravity Posted February 12, 2004 Share Posted February 12, 2004 actually no, if you fell from 100 ft above the anchor to 100 ft below the anchor on a rope with an elongation of 7% then you would actually fall 207 ft. for a fall factor of 2.07 You didn't like my method of producing more than a fall factor 2 ???! FWIW: if you take a 200ft fall on a 100ft of rope, it's surely gunna stretch a hell of a lot more than 7%. The FF is calculated pre-stretch. If you actually forced a big fall factor FOUR on a rope it would break after stretching more than 60%...if every thing else didn't fail first...like harness, anchor, 'biners, vertibrea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted February 12, 2004 Share Posted February 12, 2004 I still think your steel cable method is a cleaver way to achieve FF 4. You should be commended on that, really. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 12, 2004 Share Posted February 12, 2004 actually no, if you fell from 100 ft above the anchor to 100 ft below the anchor on a rope with an elongation of 7% then you would actually fall 207 ft. for a fall factor of 2.07 You didn't like my method of producing more than a fall factor 2 ???! FWIW: if you take a 200ft fall on a 100ft of rope, it's surely gunna stretch a hell of a lot more than 7%. The FF is calculated pre-stretch. If you actually forced a big fall factor FOUR on a rope it would break after stretching more than 60%...if every thing else didn't fail first...like harness, anchor, 'biners, vertibrea. well i chose a random figure of 7%, it varies by rope... some statics have an elongation of 1% and some skinny 8mm ropes with super low impact have elongation of 25% or more. that's how you can be TRing at marble canyon and still take a groundfall from 10m up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted February 12, 2004 Share Posted February 12, 2004 well i chose a random figure of 7%, it varies by rope... some statics have an elongation of 1% and some skinny 8mm ropes with super low impact have elongation of 25% or more. that's how you can be TRing at marble canyon and still take a groundfall from 10m up That is a point that people would do well to consider. Didn't Mr. Parker break his helmet while top rope climbing? If all you plan to do is top rope climbing, it might be better to bring along your fat 11 mm rope and leave your skinny ropes at home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 12, 2004 Share Posted February 12, 2004 who actually owns an 11mm anymore Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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