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Boulderering Through Craggers?


jkrueger

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I was out climbing at the local crag last night, putting gear away after an evening session, when some hipster bouldering dudes showed up. There were still a couple of groups climbing on top rope, and these bouldering guys would just climb around, under, or between anyone in their chosen path like it was their given right to do so.

 

There aren't any actual boulders to climb at the Columns in Eugene, so bouldering amounts to traversing around and going as high as one is comfortable with without a rope. There was 50 ft. of open space to both the left and right of the topropers, but the hipsters insisted on climbing through other people's space. I can understand this kind of behavior in a climbing gym, but at the crag? I found their behavior rude, inconsiderate, and potentially dangerous!

 

So, I was just wondering if people think this is an acceptable bouldering ethic, or were these guys out of line?

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I'm not really complaining as much as questioning.

 

I was done, had had my fun, and was on my way out. I figured that if the climbers who were still climbing felt that their space was being invaded, then they would have said something. But, as far as I know, they didn't. What I don't know is why. If it had been me climbing or belaying and they were in my space, I would have definitely said something.

 

It's not my responsibility to be responsible for everyone and everything that goes on at the crag while I'm there.

 

[ 04-23-2002, 01:56 PM: Message edited by: jkrueger ]

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This is Gaper_#1,

 

Just start farting if you feel they are invading your space. Or you can work a brown steak in your drawers too. Then claim that it might drip on their head [laf] if you stress any more.

 

Other options might include-

falling

threatening to fall

getting hostile

confronting them in a nice manner

Breaking holds

Dropping items

Radical foot manuevers nearly kicking them

*endless if you are creative!

 

Gaper_#1 Has spoken. [Cool]

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Hmm, maybe Projecthex is trying to fill the void left by the missing Caveman: beat the shit out of somebody first, ask questions later. Whatever works for you dude.

 

I don't think the original poster was whining, he was asking a question. He stated twice he was already done climbing, so he wasn't even effected by it.

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quote:

Originally posted by Colin:

Gee "projecthex,"

 

You seem like such a mature, nice guy.

 

I'm glad you have such an excellent and intelligent way of interacting with other people.

This is Gaper_#1,

 

Colin, first you must understand that not all is serious here. [Wink]

 

Gaper_#1 Has spoken. [Cool]

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When I find lots of people sitting around staring at atop rope dangling from the wall, as tope ropers do all too often(Classic crack,etc.) I just solo it until someone ties in. I don't find this to be ruder than dangling your rope from the wall for an hour without anyone climbing.

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GO SPIDEY!!! Thats cool. That isn't ever a problem. What makes me quiver is some one climbing right under me, if they don't even say hello. I wouldn't even mind some one climbing under me if they said hello, or something.... [big Grin][big Grin] Maybe mom just taught me to be too polite????? [Wink]

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I think it's a matter of common courtesy and respect, which seem to be qualities that are lacking in more and more individuals as of late. If people would just make an effort to communicate, that would be cool. But if not...

 

As I have not yet mastered the art of farting or shitting on demand, I think I'll try the verbal abuse approach first. If that doesn't work, I'll have to threaten a fall or drop something (accidently, of course). And if that doesn't work, I'll just have to go gladiator style on them.

 

I think I will also adopt this approach for idiots who climb within striking distance of me, dumb asses who double clip into any of my anchor bolts, and anyone who takes my picture without asking.

 

[hell no][Mad]

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J,

I have reread your initial post. I don't think there's any problem with some boulderer "invading someone's space" like you say, unless they were endangering that person (like bouldering above them). You specifically stated that these peoples were toproping, so no endangering it sounds like to me.

 

quote:

I can understand this kind of behavior in a climbing gym, but at the crag?

Why would it be acceptable to do this stuff in a gym but not at a toprope crag? [Confused]

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quote:

Originally posted by chucK:

Why would it be acceptable to do this stuff in a gym but not at a toprope crag?

Because everybody knows that people who go to the gym cannot be held to the same standard as those who climb actual rock - so we cut them some slack!

 

Actually, I was taught not to go on, under, over, or around anybody else's rope when they're climbing as a matter of safety (and respect). I adhere to this wherever I climb - indoors or out. In the gym, however, there are more people crowded into a confined space. If there can be such a thing as an "established ethic" at a gym, I believe it allows for boulderers to cross the path of topropers. But when I have seen it done, the boulderer has always asked permission or gave a heads up. In the outdoors, there's more space so there really isn't any need to get in other people's way.

 

And bouldering under a trad lead is inexcusable, stupid, and sure to bring bad karma (if you believe in that sort of thing) - and who wants that?

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I'd get a little miffed if someone started climbing under me, however if the top ropers didn't mind, who cares? If you have a problem with it, say something, I'm sure most people would move if you tipped your hat to them and said "please". Otherwise, let them take a rock in the teeth if they truly want it. Smile!

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Mouthy bitch on rampage:

headline eugene RG.

woman takes out boulderer for "invading space"

 

Thanx guys, next time I'll kick the guys ass. To hell with pussy bull shit.

 

Honestly I think that too many learn to climb in the gym and think that it is the same outside. The collums give people a false sense of security because it is close to the gym, not very tall. I have seen SOOOOOO many people use UNSAFE anchors, unsafe belaying, and when you question them about it there answere is "it's just the collums" like people can't die there. [Eek!]

 

There is an older guy who climbs who says we should just wait for natraul selection to do it's job. The fit and intellegent survive.

 

[ 04-24-2002, 12:40 PM: Message edited by: sk ]

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I'm right behind ya sk.... kick those motherless pigs ass... or at least yell at them enough that they don't wont to come back... And projecthex, go F@$% your self you panzie ass pigf@#%er... cram that hex right up your bitchy butt and then I'll clip in, maybe take a fall or two on it and we'll see how you like that... [Eek!]

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