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New Edition - CAG Vol III (Red Beckey)


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  • 1 month later...

Dunno if this will make it into the new edition, but I'll post it here for reference anyway. The route description for the NW Face of Kangaroo Temple is confusing, though the topo is right on. The first paragraph is fine; here's how the second paragraph should read (bold indicates changes):


Begin on the right side of the gully leading to the N notch (c. 200 ft below the notch) at a flat, table-sized rock. The first pitch is steep but sound: the crux is a 10-ft overhanging section (poor protection). Move up and left to a tree, then traverse right, entering the chimney/corner with a short downclimb. Climb the corner and belay at one of two trees. Step left and climb past a large flake, entering a left-trending corner system. (confusing sentences deleted) Two short pitches lead to the "Dance Floor"--a 30-degree slab. Traverse left to bypass a wall and meet the narrowing shallow chimney of the normal North Face route; jam and lieback to the easy summit slabs. Grade II; class 5.7. Rack: On original, 14 pitons used; chocks and cams to 2" are adequate, with small gear useful for first-pitch corner. Time: 3 hours. Reference: Mountaineer, 1943, pp. 12-13.


Variation: Instead of traversing left to start pitch four, continue up the corner system for 20 ft to a tree, then move right and up to an alcove belay. From here, follow one of three weaknesses to the summit scramble; the rightmost ascends steep blocks on crumbly rock.

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  • 3 months later...

It would be great to have my name spelled correctly. In the current edition of the red book, Fred spells my name "Hensen"--turning me into some sort of scandie type.

Correct spelling: Henson-- like the muppet guy.


Molar Tooth: East Face. Reference: The American Alpine Journal:vol36, 1994; p.134


Thanks for passing this along.

Keith Henson

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