willstrickland Posted December 8, 2003 Posted December 8, 2003 You might ask them, but I'm pretty sure that when Matt did Golden Gate with Chris Van Lueven and Tim Kemple, they did it without pre-placing anything. Matt on Pitch 40 something, Golden Gate 5.13b Quote
RuMR Posted December 8, 2003 Posted December 8, 2003 (edited) Hey Will... Tim Kemple is another trad climber from back east w/ sick routes...he boulders a shitload though as did Matt...that is prolly where they got the strength/skills to pull off the hard stuff they do...whether its bolt clipping (they both are very good sportclimbers as well) and traditional climbing... Doesn't matter whether you start sport or start trad, do both, or do just one...its all climbing...figure out how to do it and do it... I thought the funniest quote in the whole article went sumpin' like "HA, some british guy did ok on it, how hard could it really be!!" I think he was talking about Leo Houlding/Patch Hammond? Edited December 8, 2003 by RuMR Quote
Dru Posted December 8, 2003 Posted December 8, 2003 i think you mean patch hammond not dr patch adams Quote
ryland_moore Posted December 8, 2003 Posted December 8, 2003 Flagstaff, Arizona based (formerly Boone, NC based) climber Matt Childers has also done Golden Gate, FreeRider, and some .13R trad pitches in the Sedona area. He's also done 5.hard FAs in the Vampire spires, the NC mountains, and other places. Matt's background? A NRG trad climber, Boone boulderer, and Yosemite lodge employee/trad climber during the summers while in college. Matt was on my soccer team growing up in Roanoke. He did climb quite a bit at NRG and throughout the South, but he started clipping bolts before climbing trad at NRG and other areas in Virginia and NC. He is also fairly tall, built like Dean Potter, and is a machine on thin climbs and stemming nightmares. Climb in different areas, don't limit onesself to one style, and train hard will pay off big. Quote
willstrickland Posted December 8, 2003 Posted December 8, 2003 I've bouldered with Matt in NC. He's definitely the tall-skinny type, but he's nowhere near as tall as Potter. Matt might be 6'1", if that. Quote
erik Posted December 8, 2003 Posted December 8, 2003 you short people are soo funny! 6ft= tall= Quote
RuMR Posted December 8, 2003 Posted December 8, 2003 Shuttup erik Everyone's a giant in my world... Quote
Chockstone Posted December 9, 2003 Posted December 9, 2003 RuMR said: Hey Will... Tim Kemple is another trad climber from back east w/ sick routes...he boulders a shitload though as did Matt...that is prolly where they got the strength/skills to pull off the hard stuff they do...whether its bolt clipping (they both are very good sportclimbers as well) and traditional climbing... Doesn't matter whether you start sport or start trad, do both, or do just one...its all climbing...figure out how to do it and do it... Oh, I had it all wrong! I was under the impression that sport climbing and a mess of bolts were REQUIRED for getting strong. You mean to tell me that the path to 5.13 does not require sport climbing? Quote
RuMR Posted December 9, 2003 Posted December 9, 2003 Hey Chalkball... I don't think i ever implied anything about how to get strong, did i? Climb what you want, how you want...i don't really give a crap one way or the other... PS: I do like razzing pope/dwayner/scott though... Quote
texplorer Posted December 10, 2003 Posted December 10, 2003 I am a so-called self proclaimed tradster. Admittingly though, I started climbing sport and progressed to trad. The simple fact about .14 trad and sport routes is that you have to have some genetic predisposition for cranking. When trad gets to be .13 there is still a wide variety of cracks and techniques. For instance I might be able to some day climb a 1.5 size crack like tricks are for kids because it mainly entails jamming but I'll never be able to crank off a route that is a tips crankfest. Many of the harder sections of el cap routes are facey moves that closely resemble the typical type moves found on hard sport climbs. For this reason sport climbers can easily transition into the world of hard trad if they are willing to take perhaps slightly bigger falls on more marginal protection. I do find it hard to believe that a man that had never placed a cam before could just go run up a .13 OW even if he had climbed .14d before. The simple truth is that if you have "power to burn" then you'll be able to hang on longer and "figure out" the moves and techniques required to jam cracks, chickenwing, etc. Quote
Bronco Posted December 10, 2003 Posted December 10, 2003 texplorer said: I do find it hard to believe that a man that had never placed a cam before could just go run up a .13 OW even if he had climbed .14d before. I thought all OW's were 5.9 + Quote
Distel32 Posted December 10, 2003 Posted December 10, 2003 Texplorer is the shit, he knows whats up! Well said Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.