Greg_W Posted November 2, 2003 Share Posted November 2, 2003 After being dazzled initially by the neat-o pictures and shit in the new Leavenworth Rock Guide, I finally got out last weekend to see how it performed. I wasn't overly impressed. Disclaimer: I put this in the "Climber's Board Forum" because it is a serious comment on the guide and am curious what others' experience has been. While in some cases I prefer a photo topo over a drawn one, the photos of Bridge Creek Wall, Careno Crag, and several others were of woefully poor quality; the image resolution or enlargement process made them fuzzy, making it difficult to pick out prominent features. The use of picture topos, without a requisite alteration in narrative, adds some potential confusion when searching for descent routes Victor mentions in the book. Case in point: Upon topping out on the "Bale/Kramar" route, Victor says to move right, do one rappel, and walk off. I didn't find the rappel, mainly because I didn't look hard enough (mine own fault, admittedly); I did recall that there were rappel stations in the area that may, or may not, require more than (1) 60-m rope. Upon consulting my 1996 Rock Guide (at home the next day), Victor's hand-drawn topo shows several rap stations in the vicinity and gives you the ability to link rappels down to the base, avoiding the walkoff. Now, to quiet the cries that this is just a slam job, I did enjoy the history he interjected and we climbed some of the new routes in this updated version (really enjoyed "Keen Acres", although giving "Snaakes!!" (5.9) a star is overly generous in my opinion). The photos of Leavenworth climbing notables, such as Ben Stanton, were interesting at first but I realize that he sacrificed space that he could have used to include the information he gave in the 1996 guide. It appears that, in Victor's attempt to create some similarity to the Squamish Guide, he left out some information that he had in his first book. Maybe he felt he had to do this to justify the $7 increase in price; it's not really my goal to analyze that. In conclusion, I think Victor has created a very nice book; however, it seems that he has taken steps forward in some areas and steps back in others. We all look for different information from guide books, to be sure, so this is my own opinion. Although, next time I go to Leavenworth, I'll be carrying two books. Greg_W Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineK Posted November 2, 2003 Share Posted November 2, 2003 I'm disappointed that there isn't a consistent numbering system used on the route descriptions and topos/pics. What should happen. I want to climb Mary Jane Dihedral. I look it up as route #158 I then go to the pic and see route #158 labled. Or working back from the pic works well this way too. Instead the guide makes you go through an intermediate step of deciphering abbreviations in the pics and then you have to find the route description without reference numbers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E-rock Posted November 2, 2003 Share Posted November 2, 2003 Kurt, this is one of my gripes with the Squamish guide as well. Hand-drawn topos with numbers on the topos that correspond to numbers in the book, are the best solution. Why anyone would want to deviate from this tried and true formula is beyond me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted November 2, 2003 Share Posted November 2, 2003 some guidebook authors can't draw but own cameras and photoshop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted November 2, 2003 Share Posted November 2, 2003 Dru said: some guidebook authors can't draw but own cameras and photoshop When I've located a vicinity, I like hand-drawings. When I'm trying to figure out where the heck I am, I like photos. At a place such as Vantage or Tieton, photos are nice, because if you're missing a landmark, all the columns start to look alike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slaphappy Posted November 3, 2003 Share Posted November 3, 2003 the author's name is spelled Viktor ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scot'teryx Posted November 3, 2003 Share Posted November 3, 2003 Greg_W said: After being dazzled initially by the neat-o pictures and shit in the new Leavenworth Rock Guide, I finally got out last weekend to see how it performed. I wasn't overly impressed. You need to learn how to read first W Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordonb Posted November 3, 2003 Share Posted November 3, 2003 I have thought they should put gps coordinates at the base and approaches of climbs. It always seems that the first time I try to locate a crag I end up wandering around trying find the climb. Leavenworth is particularly bad. There are several rocks that I have never located even after several attempts. GPS coordinates would get you close to the base of the climb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted November 3, 2003 Share Posted November 3, 2003 Gordonb said: I have thought they should put gps coordinates at the base and approaches of climbs. It always seems that the first time I try to locate a crag I end up wandering around trying find the climb. Leavenworth is particularly bad. There are several rocks that I have never located even after several attempts. GPS coordinates would get you close to the base of the climb. Boy, do I have a website for you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schlangeschmecker Posted November 3, 2003 Share Posted November 3, 2003 If it ain't in the old Brooks/Whitelaw guide, it ain't even worf it. It ain't Leavenworfit. Personally, I'd like to see about two dozen more photos of this perky Sean Coward character. He just makes me all hot and bothered. Yowsa! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted November 3, 2003 Share Posted November 3, 2003 schlangeschmecker said: If it ain't in the old Brooks/Whitelaw guide, it ain't even worf it. It ain't Leavenworfit. Personally, I'd like to see about two dozen more photos of this perky Sean Coward character. He just makes me all hot and bothered. Yowsa! I give Sean shit every time I see him. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave_Schuldt Posted November 3, 2003 Share Posted November 3, 2003 I miss the hand drawn topos. Some of the pictures are very dark. Hand drawing those topos must take forever so I can understand the apeal of pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rr666 Posted November 3, 2003 Share Posted November 3, 2003 I also appreciate many of the new features in the book. But also agree that in some areas a step back was taken. The pictures with climbing initials are a bit annoying. A combination of high resolution pictures with hand drawn topos generally works best, with a common numbering scheme thoughout the entire book. Was Viktor constrained on the number of pages he could have published, constrained for time (it was six years since the last book??). Or was is just that he took an easy way out to get the book done. Also, I have found a handful of typos/mistakes already. I know that no book is perfect, so I won't criticize the book for this, but they are annoying... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted November 3, 2003 Share Posted November 3, 2003 the only thing that bums me out about the new book is the potential durability of the book. it appears to be glued just as the last one...so it will be ruined in a short time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rr666 Posted November 3, 2003 Share Posted November 3, 2003 erik said: the only thing that bums me out about the new book is the potential durability of the book. it appears to be glued just as the last one...so it will be ruined in a short time. That will suck, especially after forking over 26 bucks for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted November 3, 2003 Share Posted November 3, 2003 yeah thats why i didnt buy one.... i figure the old one will work well enough for me. i wonder if he wil warranty books that have fallen apart? i know some other guide book authors do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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