Dru Posted March 19, 2002 Posted March 19, 2002 quote: Originally posted by jordop: I used to doze off in lectures and dream about doin the FA of the Chan Can! while you was dreamin Vance Culbert was doin. i think him and Dave Campbell got the FFA a few days before the official opening. Quote
specialed Posted March 19, 2002 Posted March 19, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dru: Is that the "11b" one? Oh silly Dru. I'm above raitings, I climb for myself not for my sponsors or my throngs of adoring fans. Quote
Dru Posted March 19, 2002 Posted March 19, 2002 quote: Originally posted by specialed: Oh silly Dru. I'm above raitings, I climb for myself not for my sponsors or my throngs of adoring fans. i belayed a friend 2 yrs ago in the fall who fell off the last move thru the roof about a dozen times on TR and gave up. after his performance I did not bother trying. Quote
klar404 Posted March 19, 2002 Posted March 19, 2002 quote: I guess it is Brian Burdo style 10b cause the crack is 5.9 he he !! he laughs knowingly. uh, i guess bloody fingers city o' rocks. 10-a or is it? wholesome fullback at red rocks. 10-. Stellar. oh, yeah, here's a link for the burner squad http://www.wired.com/news/mac/0,2125,50820,00.html Quote
TimL Posted March 19, 2002 Posted March 19, 2002 If you like Pumpline, you should give Air Roof down the road a go. He,He,He Quote
rayborbon Posted March 19, 2002 Author Posted March 19, 2002 Pope,I did also hear from another source that Easter Overhang rox the mind. Keep the spray coming. Those moves on Brass Balls are bomber and yes I agree it is indeed short but like I mentioned this is around my limit of flailing abilities so I asked I guess Bo Derek's crux is really some face moves too but it's pretty stellar as well all in all.... Quote
russ Posted March 19, 2002 Posted March 19, 2002 I've never heard much mention of it, but "The Zip" in the lower Smoke Bluff is an awesome 10b. If it was on one of the upper formations there would be a constant waiting line. Quote
pope Posted March 19, 2002 Posted March 19, 2002 quote: Originally posted by russ: I've never heard much mention of it, but "The Zip" in the lower Smoke Bluff is an awesome 10b. If it was on one of the upper formations there would be a constant waiting line. Agreed. Also, the quality of the average Sqeamish crack climb is so high that "The Zip" gets ignored when people point out their favs. My favorite 5.10b pitch up there is Caboose. That was my first lead in that grade and I can remember working my butt off for it. Very satisfying. Quote
jordop Posted March 19, 2002 Posted March 19, 2002 Pretty sure its 10a, (10bs don't seem to have really nice places to put your feet like 10as do!)but nevertheless, yes its nice. Quote
tasmith513 Posted March 19, 2002 Posted March 19, 2002 There is an unnamed 5.10 handcrack on the extreme right end of the Resevoir Wall at Indian Creek that puts Incredible HC, Supercrack, or any of the other "classic" handcracks there to shame. Two Timer at the Second Meat Wall is hard to beat as well. Of course, I bet (and hope) that I am yet to find the "best" 5.10+ crack out there--my scope of experience is still relatively small. Quote
NoBolt Posted March 19, 2002 Posted March 19, 2002 For me it is a toss up between Cresent Crack at Lower malamute, and Bale Kramer route at Careno crag. Thin Fingers is great but was hard for me. In fact I thought it was more like 11a. Quote
cappellini Posted March 19, 2002 Posted March 19, 2002 there's a great fist crack near uranus....i thought it was nine plus...tape helps Quote
Dru Posted March 19, 2002 Posted March 19, 2002 quote: Originally posted by NoBolt: For me it is a toss up between Cresent Crack at Lower malamute, and Bale Kramer route at Careno crag. Thin Fingers is great but was hard for me. In fact I thought it was more like 11a. you thinking Caboose? or Hand Jive?, Crescent Crack is 10d. BK route crack i thought would have been good if not for all the wasps in it? Quote
erik Posted March 19, 2002 Posted March 19, 2002 quote: Originally posted by cappellini: there's a great fist crack near uranus....i thought it was nine plus...tape helps danimal is that on the west coast soft cock disease crag??? Quote
NoBolt Posted March 19, 2002 Posted March 19, 2002 Ahh .10D that would explain all of my wimpering when I got to the top. Thanks Dru. BTW I saw the wasps but they didn't bother me, they just kind of buzzed around and then left. Quote
michaeljosephnozel Posted March 19, 2002 Posted March 19, 2002 A few of my all-time favorite 10bs: Orange Sunshine (Royal Columns, Tieton) Badfinger (Lower Gorge, Smith) Caught Inside on a Big Set (Big Horn Mating Grotto, Joshua Tree) Illusion Dweller (Sentinel, Joshua Tree) Beefeater (Holdout, Vedauwoo) Orbital Ridge (Poland Hill, Vedauwoo) Quote
Peter_Puget Posted March 19, 2002 Posted March 19, 2002 The one drawback to Pumpline is the veggies growing out of the bottom 3/4ths of the route. On thing about the crux is that the jams are bomber, not very technical, and yet it is still hard. Whenever I have done it I think "Heck I must be screwing up I should be able to just pull thru and grab the top!" And instead I am having to moan and groan to pull up. Quote
Dru Posted March 19, 2002 Posted March 19, 2002 quote: Originally posted by jordop: Pretty sure its 10a, (10bs don't seem to have really nice places to put your feet like 10as do!)but nevertheless, yes its nice. Ohmygod, a Squamish 10a and someone from Washington said they thought it was 10b!!!!! what is the world coming to?? I seen a waiting line for it many times. If you like 12bs the arete next to it (Gaia) is nice too (or so said Andy Cairns when I belayed him on it). take a little toothbrush to clean the odd moss spot off holds. Quote
max Posted March 19, 2002 Posted March 19, 2002 quote: Originally posted by klar404: wholesome fullback at red rocks. 10-. Stellar. Where is this in red rocks? I recognize the name, but can't remeber climbing it... uh, like, I'm confused! Quote
Dru Posted March 19, 2002 Posted March 19, 2002 quote: Originally posted by max: Where is this in red rocks? I recognize the name, but can't remeber climbing it... uh, like, I'm confused! Isnt that in Icebox? Quote
max Posted March 19, 2002 Posted March 19, 2002 I'm frickin' retardfed! This is a climb I suggested just a few days ago! My mermory is shot!All this talk of sweet cracks just hurts! It sounds like it's the same in WA as here: all snowy and shitty for climbing. Plus, being stuck behind a computer doesn't help the climbing itchies. Dang! I can't wait for some warm weather. It helps me to compile a mental tick list of climbs for when i get back in May. Yeah!!!! Quote
Szyjakowski Posted March 19, 2002 Posted March 19, 2002 quote: Originally posted by specialed: How bout most underrated crack: Pumpline on Careno at L-worth. Not only underrated, but one of the best single pitches anywhere. yeah that last little roof is a beyotch!!!!!!!!! t minus 20 hours till i am done with my nightmare Quote
Climzalot Posted March 19, 2002 Posted March 19, 2002 Does anyone else think the short 5.10b pitch on the Bale-Kramar route in L-worth is a little spicy for the grade. Only 1 or two hard moves but dang, kinda awkward more than anything. The Zip feels like 5.8 in comparison. Quote
sexual_chocolate Posted March 19, 2002 Posted March 19, 2002 Best 10b cracks? ROTC, at Midnight Rock. Thin Fingers, at Index. Split Pillar, right side, Squamish. Quote
BigWallBigBallsRocky Posted March 19, 2002 Posted March 19, 2002 quote: Originally posted by sexual chocolate: Best 10b cracks? ROTC, at Midnight Rock. Thin Fingers, at Index. Split Pillar, right side, Squamish. don't you mean Left side Quote
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