scott_harpell Posted October 24, 2003 Share Posted October 24, 2003 remember i said some sportos jump away providing outward force on the piece? here is what i meant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neversummer Posted October 24, 2003 Share Posted October 24, 2003 Where was that taken? Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted October 24, 2003 Share Posted October 24, 2003 that guy's probably that far out partly because that route is pretty damn steep. it is in europe, I gather. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cj001f Posted October 24, 2003 Share Posted October 24, 2003 iain said: that guy's probably that far out partly because that route is pretty damn steep. it is in europe, I gather. Basti Frey gets some extra airtime after falling from high up on "Freiflug", poject, Danube Valley. Photo by Jörg Zeidelhack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted October 24, 2003 Share Posted October 24, 2003 (edited) Ummm, Scott? NEWS FLASH! Any overhanging route will cause some outward force on the piece whether you push off or not. Edited October 24, 2003 by MisterE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted October 24, 2003 Share Posted October 24, 2003 It is true that an overhang will result in some outward force on a piece of gear, but I believe that climbers who are used to falling off of overhangs onto bolts (gym climbers, largely) will develop a habit of jumping away from the rock as they fall - and this may not be a good practice when they fall on stoppers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott_harpell Posted October 24, 2003 Author Share Posted October 24, 2003 mattp said: It is true that an overhang will result in some outward force on a piece of gear, but I believe that climbers who are used to falling off of overhangs onto bolts (gym climbers, largely) will develop a habit of jumping away from the rock as they fall - and this may not be a good practice when they fall on stoppers. Â thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott_harpell Posted October 24, 2003 Author Share Posted October 24, 2003 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted October 24, 2003 Share Posted October 24, 2003 mattp said: It is true that an overhang will result in some outward force on a piece of gear, but I believe that climbers who are used to falling off of overhangs onto bolts (gym climbers, largely) will develop a habit of jumping away from the rock as they fall - and this may not be a good practice when they fall on stoppers. Â I agree and have seen this. BAD HABBIT in my opinion. I take mt scraped knees and elbows Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted October 24, 2003 Share Posted October 24, 2003 mattp said: It is true that an overhang will result in some outward force on a piece of gear, but I believe that climbers who are used to falling off of overhangs onto bolts (gym climbers, largely) will develop a habit of jumping away from the rock as they fall - and this may not be a good practice when they fall on stoppers. Â His original post said specifically " SPORTOS ", there, Matt. Last time I checked "sportos" don't place stoppers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott_harpell Posted October 24, 2003 Author Share Posted October 24, 2003 and the context was a prior post for when sportos start to learn trad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted October 24, 2003 Share Posted October 24, 2003 My bad . Links work great, if you care. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted October 24, 2003 Share Posted October 24, 2003 iain said: that guy's probably that far out partly because that route is pretty damn steep. it is in europe, I gather. Â Scott...Iain is right...this route is steep...he didn't "jump" out...that is his natural flight path... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted October 24, 2003 Share Posted October 24, 2003 mattp said: It is true that an overhang will result in some outward force on a piece of gear, but I believe that climbers who are used to falling off of overhangs onto bolts (gym climbers, largely) will develop a habit of jumping away from the rock as they fall - and this may not be a good practice when they fall on stoppers. Â Not true matt...no one i know deliberately jumps out...that is a limestone route, and my guess is that it overhangs 20 degrees or more at the rating posted... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott_harpell Posted October 24, 2003 Author Share Posted October 24, 2003 scott_harpell said: Â shouldn't that be his flight path? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted October 24, 2003 Share Posted October 24, 2003 Fence...you are assuming that the amount of rope shown will yield the location of where he dropped from...I'd add a good 10 feet (at least a body length and a half) to where he peeled from... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted October 24, 2003 Share Posted October 24, 2003 not if his hands pop - the feet naturally push off to regain orientation of the body. Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted October 24, 2003 Share Posted October 24, 2003 FWIW...i've never seen solid 5.12 or 5.13 climbers "jumping" out from a wall...that is something a beginner does...There is flatout no need to hurl oneself out from the wall...particularly from an overhanging route...additionally, a failed dyno out an overhang may create the illusion of jumping out, when in fact it was just a failure to latch a hold... Â This is a stupid posting...if you saw some "sporto" jumping out, he/she obviously didn't know what they were doing... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott_harpell Posted October 24, 2003 Author Share Posted October 24, 2003 Â 10-20-30 ft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted October 24, 2003 Share Posted October 24, 2003 jeezus give it a rest. If he was looking a nut right now yeah he'd be freaking. but he's not. you're inferring too much from just a photo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted October 24, 2003 Share Posted October 24, 2003 Why are you assuming it was a dead straight drop? Most falling climbers I have caught fell in a bit of an arc depending on the angle of the climb. Popping off creates some backward momentum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted October 24, 2003 Share Posted October 24, 2003 (edited) how do you know he wasn't dynoing??? I've never seen me or my friends jumping out from a wall at any place in the world...that is totally stupid...The only route i've ever "jumped out" on was at index so i didn't splatter a ledge/spike... Â Â W/o knowing the context that picture was taken in, you can't use it to support your claim...and as a side point, you are using it to support a false claim...any of your buddies that sport climb jump out?? Edited October 24, 2003 by RuMR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott_harpell Posted October 24, 2003 Author Share Posted October 24, 2003 W/o knowing the context that picture was taken in, you can't use it to support your claim...and as a side point, you are using it to support a false claim... Â what context? do you see a ledge? if he was dynoing, wouldn't he have more rope out? i dont know why you care so much, i just pointed out to a climber new to the sport something to think about. sheesh. nothin to shit a brick over lad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted October 24, 2003 Share Posted October 24, 2003 scott_harpell said:i dont know why you care so much you're the one analyzing a random sport climbing photo like it's the zapruder film... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott_harpell Posted October 24, 2003 Author Share Posted October 24, 2003 iain said: scott_harpell said:i dont know why you care so much you're the one analyzing a random sport climbing photo like it's the zapruder film... Â your the one who cant resist posting to my thread. dare you to try and stop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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