erik Posted October 2, 2003 Posted October 2, 2003 i can gladly spray beta all over the lower wall if needed!! Quote
eric8 Posted October 2, 2003 Posted October 2, 2003 Princly Ambitions. I back of the lead only to have my partner lead it then find seconding it really easy. Quote
Norsky Posted October 2, 2003 Posted October 2, 2003 bird said: I have gotten my ass handed to me so many times in so many different ways that I don't even know where to begin. I'll help you get started. How about Karate Crack? Cool Ranch? Ol' Orange at the gym? Quote
cracked Posted October 2, 2003 Posted October 2, 2003 eric8 said: Princly Ambitions. I back of the lead only to have my partner lead it then find seconding it really easy. Reread the title, Eric. Quote
bird Posted October 2, 2003 Posted October 2, 2003 Norsky said: bird said: I have gotten my ass handed to me so many times in so many different ways that I don't even know where to begin. I'll help you get started. How about Karate Crack? Cool Ranch? Ol' Orange at the gym? Bastard. Always bringing up the Karate Crack meltdown. Everyone on this site calls it a 8+/9-. How do you think that makes me feel? Maybe it is your *soft belay* technique that gets me in a dark place while leading. You know... the big loop of slack laying on the ground... the distant gaze in your eyes while daydreaming of chasing butterflies when you were a wee child... Quote
iain Posted October 2, 2003 Posted October 2, 2003 k.crack is harder than 5.8 you sprayin' iHardmen. the egos in this place sometimes... Quote
Norsky Posted October 2, 2003 Posted October 2, 2003 iain said: k.crack is harder than 5.8 you sprayin' iHardmen. the egos in this place sometimes... You guys are right, Karate Crack is harder than 8. I'd say it's a solid 8+ Quote
cracked Posted October 3, 2003 Posted October 3, 2003 Norsky said: iain said: k.crack is harder than 5.8 you sprayin' iHardmen. the egos in this place sometimes... You guys are right, Karate Crack is harder than 8. I'd say it's a solid 8+ It's harder than most of the 70's 10a's in the Gorge. Quote
iain Posted October 3, 2003 Posted October 3, 2003 that's because all the lower gorge tops at 5.7+, particularly that crack to the right of cruel sister (blood clot is it?) Quote
Charlie Posted October 3, 2003 Posted October 3, 2003 Norsky said: How about that 5.6 chimney first pitch of Royal Arches? Remember that one? So polished! Never mind that, how about that 5.2 slab traverse at the end -GRIPPED!- Quote
babnik Posted October 3, 2003 Posted October 3, 2003 libra. hot sweaty day... peeled and swore like a mutha. Quote
Norsky Posted October 3, 2003 Posted October 3, 2003 Charlie said: Norsky said: How about that 5.6 chimney first pitch of Royal Arches? Remember that one? So polished! Never mind that, how about that 5.2 slab traverse at the end -GRIPPED!- Very good point. That last pitch was some serious BS. We wanted to top out so that we could check out the notorious North Dome Gully descent without haul bags. My God how hot that day was! Quote
Cairns Posted October 6, 2003 Posted October 6, 2003 Peter_Puget said: Fern's handcrack question got me thinking about what routes looked easy but ended up kicking your rear. First on my list is Hot Cherry Bendover. It looks like a short 5.8 route but it is actually pretty darn hard. Too bad it is off limits now. PP If you miss HCB, just go down and try Red Nails. Just a short vertical crack, no missing sections, but stopped me right off the ground. I think it qualifies as looking easy, if you don't check the guide. Quote
Peter_Puget Posted October 6, 2003 Author Posted October 6, 2003 Been there! But not in years. Rock is really grainy if I remember correctly. Quote
Distel32 Posted October 6, 2003 Posted October 6, 2003 chain reaction one super tweaky pocket........ Quote
cracked Posted October 6, 2003 Posted October 6, 2003 Distel32 said: chain reaction one super tweaky pocket........ That makes two...what pocket? Quote
Distel32 Posted October 6, 2003 Posted October 6, 2003 the left hand two moves after the second clip Quote
cracked Posted October 6, 2003 Posted October 6, 2003 Skip it. Go from the jug to the pinch below the horn. See PM. Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted October 7, 2003 Posted October 7, 2003 iain said: queue DFA post It's like you know exactly what DFA is thinking or something ... strange, that. Quote
EWolfe Posted October 8, 2003 Posted October 8, 2003 iain said: that crack to the right of cruel sister (blood clot is it?) Yes, Blood Clot Handed me a bloody flapper last weekend - here I am, climbing .11, and get spit off that damn thing Also, dare I mention SagiScarius? Quote
Al_Pine Posted October 8, 2003 Posted October 8, 2003 I don't think Sagiscarius looks easy. That alternate (right) start to Steel Pulse looks easy, but shut me down. Quote
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