Crack Posted September 29, 2003 Share Posted September 29, 2003 march of the kitchen utensils and hers in grotto in front of a fresh busload of canadien tourons... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norsky Posted September 29, 2003 Share Posted September 29, 2003 Crack said: march of the kitchen utensils and hers in grotto in front of a fresh busload of canadien tourons... March was an awesome route! When I did it, I looked up and thought it ended much sooner than it did so I was short gear. I ran out the last half of the route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chelle Posted September 29, 2003 Share Posted September 29, 2003 Vector on the apron in Squamish. Looks sweet from the ledge but then you realize...this is wider than I thought! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norsky Posted September 29, 2003 Share Posted September 29, 2003 How about the East Butt on Middle Cathedral with the original (left) last 4 or 5 pitches? WIDE and way at my limit when I did it. There's that bombay "5.8" flare. Anyone else done this route? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted September 29, 2003 Share Posted September 29, 2003 Light on the Path is still hard for me Gumby is very hard for me Carnival Crack!! Last pitch of OnLine Angel Crack! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norsky Posted September 29, 2003 Share Posted September 29, 2003 Angel Crack had oily ooze coming out of it when I did it way back when. Short, greasy, and tricky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted September 30, 2003 Share Posted September 30, 2003 How 'bout Moondance? Only .11b, right? Couldn't be too hard. Ha ha. Ouch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted October 1, 2003 Share Posted October 1, 2003 The waaaaaaay sandbagged 5.7 Alcoa Presents at Seneca Rocks, WV. This quintessential "Seneca 7" kicked my ass in my early days of climbing. When you announce around the campfire that you "climbed Alcoa", the first question posed to you is, "Did you step on the pin?" You hang your head and humbly nod in agreement that you did. Many a climber who fancied themselves a 5.8/.9 trad leader has stepped on that aluminum pin from which the route gets its name. Damn near everybody does it on the first try. It's a humbling experience... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slothrop Posted October 1, 2003 Share Posted October 1, 2003 That short fist crack at the base of GNS (first pitch of Aries?) kicked my butt the first couple times I did it. I had to pull on gear because my technique was weak . There's really just one move you have to commit to -- getting a foot in the crack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whirlwind Posted October 1, 2003 Share Posted October 1, 2003 the 10b next to rudabega in squish looked like good locks turned out to be rattly fingers and shitty smears statred off easy though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted October 1, 2003 Share Posted October 1, 2003 slothrop said: That short fist crack at the base of GNS (first pitch of Aries?) kicked my butt the first couple times I did it. I had to pull on gear because my technique was weak . There's really just one move you have to commit to -- getting a foot in the crack. Heck, that's not a fist crack, it's a cupped hands crack. No wonder you thought it was hard! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jshamster Posted October 1, 2003 Share Posted October 1, 2003 First pitch Reg. route Fairview Dome. Slippery! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norsky Posted October 1, 2003 Share Posted October 1, 2003 jshamster said: First pitch Reg. route Fairview Dome. Slippery! It was wet when I did it a couple years ago. Nice short crux though. How about that cool pitch above when you yard on that chopper flake/block that is gonna kill someone someday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jshamster Posted October 1, 2003 Share Posted October 1, 2003 Norsky said: jshamster said: First pitch Reg. route Fairview Dome. Slippery! How about that cool pitch above when you yard on that chopper flake/block that is gonna kill someone someday. Word! A thought provoking block for sure. I miss T-Meadows. Think I'll go next week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted October 1, 2003 Share Posted October 1, 2003 you dont need to pull on that block.................... we watched some kids simul past with no gear climb all over the loose flake below the traverse.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted October 1, 2003 Share Posted October 1, 2003 Libra crack at Index kicks my ass all the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minx Posted October 1, 2003 Share Posted October 1, 2003 Bronco said: Libra crack at Index kicks my ass all the time. yep.. those first couple moves suck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted October 1, 2003 Share Posted October 1, 2003 thunbs down, thumbs down, high step locker hands. not too bad if you have done it 60327584754275057 times! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted October 1, 2003 Share Posted October 1, 2003 1)Split Beaver at Squish 2)Classic Crack at Broughton 3)Approach to Slesse Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minx Posted October 1, 2003 Share Posted October 1, 2003 erik said: thunbs down, thumbs down, high step locker hands. not too bad if you have done it 60327584754275057 times! and if those hands are locker for you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted October 1, 2003 Share Posted October 1, 2003 its tight hands.....green jrs to red camalots...that is a tough size...you just need to know how to do it and trust your jams and move off of them.... sumpin we like to call technique!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted October 1, 2003 Share Posted October 1, 2003 Don't tape up and get your first knuckle in there and crank down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minx Posted October 1, 2003 Share Posted October 1, 2003 someday i'll get some technique but prolly not for a while. until then...the first 2 moves for me are way harder than they look...but so what? it's still a fun crack! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bird Posted October 1, 2003 Share Posted October 1, 2003 I have gotten my ass handed to me so many times in so many different ways that I don't even know where to begin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slothrop Posted October 2, 2003 Share Posted October 2, 2003 erik said: thunbs down, thumbs down, high step locker hands. dammit, man! so much for the onsight! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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