sk Posted September 24, 2003 Posted September 24, 2003 Iam hopefully going to smith this weekend and want to lead some sport routes.. will you share some easy to moderate route that you had fun climbing. Yes I have looked at the guide book, and will some more thanks (is this the correct forum?) Quote
sk Posted September 24, 2003 Author Posted September 24, 2003 is there anything I WOULDN'T think of??? Quote
Sphinx Posted September 24, 2003 Posted September 24, 2003 buckets, bunny, jete, dancer, nine gallon buckets, purple headed warrior, phone call from satan, light on the path, the llamas thing by pheonix, jeez look in the Bible! Quote
ClimbingCowboy Posted September 24, 2003 Posted September 24, 2003 Round River 5.4 *** on Koala Rock is a nice-n-easy multi-pitch. After rap'n down, you could stick and do some other stuff below 5.9 on the back or front sides, or head over to the Marsupials do the Cave route 5.6. It makes for a day of easy climbing with just quickdraws, a sling, and a sport anchor. The views are great. Ginger Snap, Easy Reader and the Pioneer Route on Monkey Face are others that shouldn't be intimidating. 'Course these may be beneath you according to your sport-leading ability. Good Luck. I'm a slave to the almighty dollar this weekend. Quote
b-rock Posted September 24, 2003 Posted September 24, 2003 Do you have the red suplement guide? Tons of fun new moderate sport routes right of * pass, on Adit and Koala rocks. Quote
sk Posted September 24, 2003 Author Posted September 24, 2003 Sphinx said: buckets, bunny, jete, dancer, nine gallon buckets, purple headed warrior, phone call from satan, light on the path, the llamas thing by pheonix, jeez look in the Bible! cool, stuff I haven't done Quote
sk Posted September 24, 2003 Author Posted September 24, 2003 b-rock said: Do you have the red suplement guide? Tons of fun new moderate sport routes right of * pass, on Adit and Koala rocks. nope is there a secret password to get it??? ( I haven't looked ) Thanks Quote
Sphinx Posted September 24, 2003 Posted September 24, 2003 Muffy_The_Wanker_Sprayer said: b-rock said: Do you have the red suplement guide? Tons of fun new moderate sport routes right of * pass, on Adit and Koala rocks. nope is there a secret password to get it??? ( I haven't looked ) Thanks point has it. Quote
iain Posted September 24, 2003 Posted September 24, 2003 rattlesnake chimney. it's retrobolted. Quote
RuMR Posted September 24, 2003 Posted September 24, 2003 Muffy_The_Wanker_Sprayer said: Sphinx said: buckets, bunny, jete, dancer, nine gallon buckets, purple headed warrior, phone call from satan, light on the path, the llamas thing by pheonix, jeez look in the Bible! cool, stuff I haven't done One of the best moderates at the park: go up the crack in the corner next (to the left) to karate crack...dunno the name of this...when you reach the belay, you will see a bolt line that trends slightly to the right of the arete that forms at the stance you are on...don't know the name of this either, but it is airy and exposed and fun climbing...5.8-ish...good route...DO IT!!! Quote
matt_warfield Posted September 24, 2003 Posted September 24, 2003 RuMR: Don't you mean "right" of Karate Crack? If so, you are probably talking about a second pitch to Cinammon Slab, of which there are several options. Quote
Gordonb Posted September 24, 2003 Posted September 24, 2003 I liked katherine finds an edge. It is in the suppliment book. just uphill from dancer and jete. It goes right up the ridge from asterix pass. It is an easy 5.7ish climb with more exposure than most climbs since you can see both sides of the ridge. If you want to TR use lots of directionals because if you just lower off you end up near the top of dancer. Quote
Dru Posted September 24, 2003 Posted September 24, 2003 first kiss on kiss of the lepers 5 pitch fully sportified 5.8 follow line of bolts for 5 pitches to the summit. walk down. take helmet for when partner breaks off nubbins onto your head. Quote
erik Posted September 24, 2003 Posted September 24, 2003 iain said: rattlesnake chimney. it's retrobolted. Quote
RuMR Posted September 24, 2003 Posted September 24, 2003 matt_warfield said: RuMR: Don't you mean "right" of Karate Crack? If so, you are probably talking about a second pitch to Cinammon Slab, of which there are several options. Yes...my bad...to the right IN THE CORNER...the second pitch that i'm talking about then veers off left and finishes up the slab trending to the right of the arete...it is bolted face climbing... Quote
sk Posted September 24, 2003 Author Posted September 24, 2003 Dru said: first kiss on kiss of the lepers 5 pitch fully sportified 5.8 follow line of bolts for 5 pitches to the summit. walk down. take helmet for when partner breaks off nubbins onto your head. that sounds fun thanks Dru Quote
jkrueger Posted September 24, 2003 Posted September 24, 2003 matt_warfield said: RuMR: Don't you mean "right" of Karate Crack? If so, you are probably talking about a second pitch to Cinammon Slab, of which there are several options. That's what I thought, too... Cinnamon Slab is an easy 5.6 crack; if you don't have trad gear, that ledge can also be reached via Ginger Snap. I saw people on that route the last time I was there. The double-rope rappel looked fun! Is there a walk off? Quote
RuMR Posted September 24, 2003 Posted September 24, 2003 Walk off?? HAHAHAHA yeah, just down climb your pick of routes to the climbers left ...or hike off the backside and back around asterisk You can also single rap off of headless w/ a 70m... Quote
Dru Posted September 24, 2003 Posted September 24, 2003 Muffy_The_Wanker_Sprayer said: Dru said: first kiss on kiss of the lepers 5 pitch fully sportified 5.8 follow line of bolts for 5 pitches to the summit. walk down. take helmet for when partner breaks off nubbins onto your head. that sounds fun thanks Dru at top of second pitch do not head up and right towards a lone bolt, but go left along a bolted 4th class ledge and around a corner out of sight. from here you'll be able to see the rest of the route. Quote
erik Posted September 24, 2003 Posted September 24, 2003 or rap the route you came up with a single. one note tho...lotsa loose rock up there and lotsa people down below..... walk gingerly! Quote
iain Posted September 24, 2003 Posted September 24, 2003 jkrueger said: Is there a walk off? If you want to hike it over to spiderman... There's that chossy gulley with that tattered white handline hanging down to climber's right of those slab low-5th dihedral routes if you want some adventure Quote
jkrueger Posted September 24, 2003 Posted September 24, 2003 Muffy_The_Wanker_Sprayer said: Dru said: first kiss on kiss of the lepers 5 pitch fully sportified 5.8 follow line of bolts for 5 pitches to the summit. walk down. take helmet for when partner breaks off nubbins onto your head. that sounds fun thanks Dru Yeah, I was wishing I had a helmet. Luckily, Dru has bad aim and I was able to dodge the debris he rained down on me. The third pitch is a traverse to the left, so don't get suckered by the bolts to the right (but Dru just said that). Other than that, fun and easy. Quote
Dru Posted September 24, 2003 Posted September 24, 2003 the 5.0 route on squaw rock is pretty good too!!! but at the bottom it feels harder than 5.0. there are lotsa vultures and cougars and stuff out there in the wilderness beyond the bolted too Quote
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