erewhon Posted September 10, 2003 Posted September 10, 2003 Looking to replace my lead koflach's.(pieces of krap) Thinking about the Lasportiva Trango Extremes or Scarpa Alphas with intuition liners...Does anybody have any ideas on these two creatures for use in semi technical alpine climbing? ie Sandy Headwall, Yocum Ridge, Sunset Amphitheatre? How warm are the Trangos? How delicate are the Alphas? LET THE DEBATES BEGIN! Quote
lummox Posted September 10, 2003 Posted September 10, 2003 erewhon said: LET THE DEBATES BEGIN! yea. its been weeks since someone asked about boots. Quote
Sphinx Posted September 10, 2003 Posted September 10, 2003 erewhon said: Looking to replace my lead koflach's.(pieces of krap) Thinking about the Lasportiva Trango Extremes or Scarpa Alphas with intuition liners...Does anybody have any ideas on these two creatures for use in semi technical alpine climbing? ie Sandy Headwall, Yocum Ridge, Sunset Amphitheatre? How warm are the Trangos? How delicate are the Alphas? LET THE DEBATES BEGIN! Fer those climbs plastics are fine, as well as heavy leathers. I've heard of people putting holes through Alphas fast, and the Trango isn't anywhere near as warm or waterproof. Quote
IceIceBaby Posted September 10, 2003 Posted September 10, 2003 on almost everything The Trango extreme do me well…but if u looking for a real worm and watertight boots and willing to lose a LITTLE technical ability try the LOWA Civetta extreme is the ticket to date I dont know any better warm, agile and low profile (almost like leather) boots Even the Alfa don’t come close Quote
jja Posted September 10, 2003 Posted September 10, 2003 erewhon said: How warm are the Trangos? Â .. depends. At least for me they're not warm enough for winter cascade stuff at altitude (ie. >10k). But for everything else they're warm enough with one exception - deep snow. Every time I've been in a prolonged post holing or deep snow situation my feet have gotten very very cold in these boots. Â I've got the trangos and the big honkin scarpa invernos, and i almost always take the trangos, I figure as long as I don't expect to get frostbite I can take a little bit of cold in exchange for the light weight, comfort, and precision. As always ymmv. Quote
erewhon Posted September 11, 2003 Author Posted September 11, 2003 How are the Civetta's for weight? How stiff comparatively? Quote
Nick Posted September 11, 2003 Posted September 11, 2003 I like the alphas very much. Very warm, light, comfortable, fairly nimble. Quote
IceIceBaby Posted September 11, 2003 Posted September 11, 2003 erewhon said: How are the Civetta's for weight? How stiff comparatively? it is about 6lb which is average for plastic boots and they do climb ice like a dream I wont hike more then 8 hours in them they are too stiff...but if in the cold and u need to do something technical then they are great BTW, I also heard that they are decent alpine ski boots   Quote
PaulB Posted September 11, 2003 Posted September 11, 2003 erewhon said: ... Thinking about the Lasportiva Trango Extremes or Scarpa Alphas with intuition liners... I tried Intuiton Liners in Alphas and found that the liner was too bulky for the shell. Made the ankles much more loose than I liked. Quote
russ Posted September 11, 2003 Posted September 11, 2003 On the other hand, I've got Intuition liners in Scarpa Infernos - it brings their weight down considerably. Â Size 10/11 shell = 6 lb 6 oz (real weight, not the misleading crap in catalogs) Quote
Ursa_Eagle Posted September 11, 2003 Posted September 11, 2003 PaulB said: I tried Intuiton Liners in Alphas and found that the liner was too bulky for the shell. Made the ankles much more loose than I liked. Â I would have thought that bulky liners would make for a tighter fit, not more loose... Quote
PaulB Posted September 12, 2003 Posted September 12, 2003 Ursa_Eagle said: PaulB said: I tried Intuiton Liners in Alphas and found that the liner was too bulky for the shell. Made the ankles much more loose than I liked. Â I would have thought that bulky liners would make for a tighter fit, not more loose... The fit was pretty tight around my foot, but the overlap closure of the liners was too big for the ankle of the shell to wrap around and provide good support. Some people might not mind this, but I didn't like it. In the end, I returned the Alphas and put the liners in my ski boots. Quote
fredrogers Posted September 15, 2003 Posted September 15, 2003 Anyone have any feedback on the Scarpa Thermo Cerro Torre? Â I'm looking for aomething a little more comfortable and nimble that my Invernos, but need to keep my tooties warm due to previous frostbite. Quote
IceIceBaby Posted September 15, 2003 Posted September 15, 2003 fredrogers said: Anyone have any feedback on the Scarpa Thermo Cerro Torre?  Very good boots (if they fit) I would have gotten them but they don’t fit me…honestly in today’s market it is hard to make a mistake buying gear…there are so many excellent products out there so comparing them is like splitting hair Quote
slothrop Posted September 16, 2003 Posted September 16, 2003 I have the non-Thermo version and they're nice, but they kill my heels. For their weight and burliness, they are pretty nimble boots, in my limited experience. Quote
Jason_Martin Posted August 17, 2004 Posted August 17, 2004 Intuition liners are great IF they are fit right. The "if" is huge. Many stores don't have employees who know how to fit them right. If they feel sloppy in the store, make them fit the liners again. If they're sloppy the second time, make them do it yet again. Make them do it until it's right, otherwise you will be hating life. Â Alphas are nice light boots, but they have one problem. They don't have a full gusset inside them. The result is that if you use them a lot, the seal will start to decay. Eventually your feet will begin to get wet in slushy snow. Â Invernos have the same problem as the Alphas. Civettas are nice. I don't have any experience with the Trango Extremes. Â One other thing to consider is using toe warmers on extremely cold days. I've done this on Denali, Illimani, Huyna Potosi and on winter ascents of Rainier -- all of which can be extremely cold mountans. I naturally have cold feet so I'm constantly worrying about my toes. So far boots and overboots have never done as much for me as chemical toe warmers. Â Jason Quote
Dru Posted August 18, 2004 Posted August 18, 2004 Koflach Vertical has kept my toes warm & dry and climbed well in winter and on alpine, and on winter alpine too. I had to get them reranded after 4 years, otherwise no problems. Quote
rhyang Posted August 18, 2004 Posted August 18, 2004 re: decaying seal - I picked up a pair of used Invernos off ebay that seemed great until I noticed that in wet snow my feet were getting wet. Any way to fix that ? Can the seal be re-glued or something ? Quote
Dru Posted August 18, 2004 Posted August 18, 2004 you could fix it by buying some boots with a gussetted tongue, like koflachs Quote
rhyang Posted August 19, 2004 Posted August 19, 2004 Clearly I should go try some on, but in the meantime I've read that Koflachs are typically best for medium-narrow feet (?) I'd be curious to know if anyone with wider feet has had success with them (Verticals, or the other models for that matter), and whether or not thermofits / shell modifications were needed. My toes just barely fit in the Invernos (was thinking of thermofits). Quote
Alex_Mineev Posted August 28, 2004 Posted August 28, 2004 Does anybody have any experience with Vasque Ice 9000? Can't find any decent reviews on the web... Do they worth the money? I plan them for winter climbs above 10k in Cascades and warm season climbing on Aconcagua and Alaska. Quote
Lambone Posted September 9, 2004 Posted September 9, 2004 if your talikng plastic I'd go with Lowa's Quote
flatland Posted October 21, 2004 Posted October 21, 2004 The Koflachs are the best cold mountaineering plastic. They are much more comfortable in non-vertical terrain than the Asolo, Lowa or other plastics (only good on steep ice in weather too cold for leathers). Alphas are better in technical terrain (more technical than anything on Rainier). The La Sportiva Olympus Mons climb great and are warm. Â Anyone used the new montrail boot/crampon combo? Quote
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