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Posted

Here's a list of stuff I love for alpine rock or Ice since I am bored and can't sleep. Feel free to argue. I'll edit and add/delete until it's perfect and everone looks like me in the mtns. yellowsleep.gif

 

Clothes:

 

Montrail D9-better than boulders imho

MEC schoeller pants

Wildthings windshirt

Marmot Driclime windshirt

Patagonia Puffball (old version, or 2004 version)

Marmot Parbat (w/o dryloft)

Go light 6month night parka

Arctyrx powershield bibs and jacket

Patagonia silkweight cap

poweshield balaclava or big wool hat

Marmot light weight glove liners

Patagonia stretchlight pants and jkt(or whatever they call it now)

MEC vortex glove

Cloudveil's ice flow glove

smartwool mountaineer expedition socks

woolrich merino wool ankle high lightwieght socks

REI schoeller gaiters (sorry LaSportiva, your's suck)

yellowsleep.gif

Bivy Gear:

Nunatak 1/2 bag and or Moonstone Lucid

Betalight tent w/BD flicklock poles (or leki)

Bibler Winter Bivy

Yellow Foam pad or ultralight 3/4 t-rest

Evernew 1.3L titanium pot, MSR .75 titan pot, and pocket rocket make great hanging stove or an MSR wisperlight

Bibler I tent

Camelback unbottle 3L w/straight on/off valve

Nalgenes w/OR bottle parka

Tikka or MYO 3

Earplugs,sleeping pills, smokes in winston evo flask, and alberta premium bivy kit

Aquamuira

Cards, gameboy, or Minidisk

yellowsleep.gif

Food:

Cytomax and gu

Nutrageous, and Fastbreak candy bars

fuzzy peach canadian gummies (or watermellow sour patch kids)

peperoni slices or jerky

luna bars and zone bars

peanut butter kudos

cous-cous and soft packaged tuna

cliff bar I hate so I won't eat it until I have too

Tony's coffe, #2 coffe filter, and an over the mug plastic coffer filter holder thing

yellowsleep.gif

Tools:

Simond Fox icetool hammer

Cobras

BD express w/arctyrx clips

1/2 dome helmet

BD camalots goddmanit

aliens blue-red(not in icy routes though)

tcu blue-orange

metolius extractor

neoprene case for camera

DMM version of neutrinos

Bluewater spectra shoulder slings

Metolius rabbit runners

OnSight webolette

Petzel Attache locker

haven't got a good ice boot I like yet

Serratus Genie (add ice tool holsters, a pad, and a sternum)

Wildthings Ice Sack or BD icepack or LoweALpine Alpine attack 40 (which is no longer made)

spyderco tiny knife

chalkbag w/clippers, tape, ibu, vicodin, sunscreen, lip balm in lower zipper pocket

Arctyrx Verro harness

mythos

nuts and pins...whatevers cheap

hotwires

charletmoser screamers

lockdown leash or yates leash clipped to axe head w/caribeaner

On sight v-threader

BD sabertooth crampon

Charlet Moser M-10

Camp lightweight aluminum (the blue ones w/the platic strap on deal that weighs a 1lb for the pair)

Bluewater icefloss 8.0m 70m

Beal stinger rope 9.4 70m w/70m of 6mill cord

Dermatone Z-coat yellowsleep.gif

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Posted

i read an account of a guy who did the first traverse of the sierras in winter. his list of stuff he carried was short. like wooden skis and poles. an axe. a down-filled robe. he prolly brought matches and some food. guees ya dont need the tech stuff to be hard core.

Posted
lummox said:

i read an account of a guy who did the first traverse of the sierras in winter. his list of stuff he carried was short. like wooden skis and poles. an axe. a down-filled robe. he prolly brought matches and some food. guees ya dont need the tech stuff to be hard core.

Snow Shoe Thompson. He was hand carrying mail between Placerville and Carson City Nevada. Did it for many years, for free at first, except for meals and room and board at each end. A Scandanavian who just wanted a job so said give me the mail to carry when no one else would go due to the high snows.There is a monument to him at the top of Carson Pass on CA State Route 88. An amazing, or some would claim crazy, man. thumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gif

Posted

I've got to test a lot of shit after working 3 different outdoor retail or guide related jobs in the past 7 years.

 

Of course you don't need tech stuff to be hard core, thanks for that enlightening statement.

Posted

if hard core means freezing your ass off and being wet a miserable i don't want to be it. I am sure there are tons of examples of people doing stuff back in the day that most people could not deal with now.

I'll take high tech warm and dry rather than being hard core.

Posted

the reason the envelope is being pushed even farther is caue of the high tech stuff. if people didn't have this gear, they would likely be doing the sme shit that was done in the 20's. How many people would go do super remote FA's sportin cotton? and who wants to hump 200lbs of shit in when now it is more like 35?

Posted

Ya gotta remember that back in the day they used pack horses and dog sleds and shit, too. Maybe not Snowshoe Thompson, but it was standard practice. Still, we shouldn't forget that we aren't any better than the old dudes.

Posted

Haglofs (or Bergans, but I think it's Haglofs) of Norway supplies Norwegian troops with polar gear made out of cotton blended soft shells material...it's one of the most breathable in that climate.

 

I was just commenting on the three puffies and the multiple soft shell pants, packs, etc...

I might get a new puffie a decade, after a severe thrash fest wastes the last one... my klettersack, I think its a decade old and it works as well as a new incantation.

 

I have been upgrading into much more sophisticated soft shells as of late however...

 

true about the old farts being a tough breed, has anyone read the story of the Endurance? and the two years stranded in the Antartic Ocean...those bastards were tough indeed!

Posted

High tech stuff helps. I sure do not want to chance it with the stuff used by those back in the day. But knowledge and some luck sure comes in handy. Beck mentioned the Endurance expedition. What an epic and classic tale of survival. I read another story of John Muir getting caught in a freak summer snowstorm on Shasta. He and his partner Jerome Fay layed in the sulfer hot spring at the base of the summit pinnacle for 17 hours. It is not deep enough to cover them completely. They actually allowed the snow to build up on their chests hoping it would act as insulation against the wind. Would high tech stuff have helped them? Would they have thought to lay in the hot springs with all of that gear? With modern gear would they have tried to head down in the storm? I do not know. Food for thought. Knowledge and luck!

Posted

Endurance is the most amazing hard core shit I have ever read or watched (the Movie and the Documentary).

 

I think it would be fun to do some of the routes with the exact same gear the first ascentionist had. Then we'll see how hard core the old timers really were.

 

For example, read about Phyllus and Don Monday's book and Mt Waddington, "MYstery Mountain." Although the book is as boring as a bag of doorknobs, these guys would haul wood up the glacier for their cookfires, and pack dirt on the ice so their horses wouldn't get scared, etc... Fuck that.

Posted
lummox said:

i read an account of a guy who did the first traverse of the sierras in winter. his list of stuff he carried was short. like wooden skis and poles. an axe. a down-filled robe. he prolly brought matches and some food. guees ya dont need the tech stuff to be hard core.

 

Snow shoe carried the mail across the Sierras in the mid 1850's

 

Orland Bartholomew skiied the entire John Muir trail, in winter, 1928-1929 including ski descent of Mts Tyndall, Langley & Whitney (all over 14k).

 

The book to read is "High Odyssey" by Gene Rose - it includes pictures and diary excerpts. Bartholomew rocked!

Posted (edited)
michael_layton said:

Endurance is the most amazing hard core shit I have ever read or watched (the Movie and the Documentary).

 

I think it would be fun to do some of the routes with the exact same gear the first ascentionist had. Then we'll see how hard core the old timers really were.

 

For example, read about Phyllus and Don Monday's book and Mt Waddington, "MYstery Mountain." Although the book is as boring as a bag of doorknobs, these guys would haul wood up the glacier for their cookfires, and pack dirt on the ice so their horses wouldn't get scared, etc... Fuck that.

 

Try just making it to the summit with your high tech gear first. Chances are, you just might be good enough to do it with what you have now let alone make it more challenging adding other factors like equipment. This day and age, you might just as well try to be the first to summit the peak in the winter or be the first to ski it or even set a speed record if you are looking for hard man status.

Edited by Crackbolter
Posted
michael_layton said:

For example, read about Phyllus and Don Monday's book and Mt Waddington, "MYstery Mountain." Although the book is as boring as a bag of doorknobs,

 

but the photo of the young Phyl Munday reveals she was a hot babe! fruit.gif

  • 1 month later...
Posted

"Evernew 1.3L titanium pot, MSR .75 titan pot, and pocket rocket make great hanging stove"

 

This item caught my eye. (I know the Superfly with the hanging kit is supposed to work great but I already own a pocket rocket. ) How would I assemble these pots and the pocket rocket assemble into a hanging stove?

 

Also, anyone suceed in adding a piezo to their pocket rocket?

Posted

"has anyone read the story of the Endurance? and the two years stranded in the Antartic Ocean...those bastards were tough indeed!"

 

As another fan of the Endurance story, I was interested to look at their gear list and noted that everyone was outfitted with wool clothing. As a fairly recent convert to merino wool base layers myself I got to wondering how they would have managed if they were wearing the synthetic base layers that are so popular now. I realize that the marketing says the synthetics are good, but what do folks out there who have used both find?

Posted
cjain said:

"Evernew 1.3L titanium pot, MSR .75 titan pot, and pocket rocket make great hanging stove"

 

This item caught my eye. (I know the Superfly with the hanging kit is supposed to work great but I already own a pocket rocket. ) How would I assemble these pots and the pocket rocket assemble into a hanging stove?

 

Also, anyone suceed in adding a piezo to their pocket rocket?

 

Make a model out of cardboard to figure it out, then draw your cuts on the pots (and hole points) and take it to the hardware store to have them cut and swage. Look at a photo of one. The hard part of the pocket rocket is the wings colapse inwards, so figure out how to stabilie them (like making the slits exactly the legnth of the winds and maybe a small bracket under or ove the wings.

Posted

hey,gearhead,

 

yes wool rocks over any synthetic for long underwear. I've been using filson's forest green merino wool long underwear for three winter seasons and I can attest, after a full day of winter patrol up on Rainier, skiing all day long, i am comfortably dry and warm at the end. I stand in comfort, waiting for the van or the other patrollers, and am usually warm and dry to the skin. I can wear the same clothes around in the cabin when we get back to longmire to the ski house. I've gotten a smart wool top this year that is a bit softer then the Filson, but filsons are a great sneaking around color (sneak, sneak, poach!)

 

I've also taken to wearing wool sweaters underneath a soft shell and report excellent performance this way. usually the sweater is all you need and the ventilation is better if you don't have any shell on...

 

Filson makes great super heavy merino wool sweaters, also dark green (or blue if you want)

these are so comfortable..... hold on a sec....

 

you can wear them next to skin and not itch too much...had to check...

 

corse, gearhead, you are also talking to a guy that's slept in snowbanks during blizzards in a double mackinaw cruiser and a set of good wood trousers by just diving in...

 

I've loved wool for years... I hated the synthetic long underwear days, thats some lame stuff IMO.... same with pile. what a bunch of crap!

 

Wool is GREAT!

Posted
Beck said:

corse, gearhead, you are also talking to a guy that's slept in snowbanks during blizzards in a double mackinaw cruiser and a set of good wood trousers by just diving in...

Yeah, those wood pants...DA BOMB! No more bruises from falling ice! rolleyes.gif

 

I've loved wool for years... I hated the synthetic long underwear days, thats some lame stuff IMO.... same with pile. what a bunch of crap!

 

Wool is GREAT!

How does pile 'suck'? Wool hold moisture very well. thumbs_down.gifyellowsleep.gif

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