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cjain

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Everything posted by cjain

  1. Anyone have the chance to try both the BD Zenix and the Petzl Myo 5.in the mountains and compare? No question that the Zenix is significantly lighter then the Myo 5 and its spare batteries are lighter too. But how does the Zenix's single "hyperbright" LED compare to the Petzl's halogen lamp.
  2. Thanks, Glassgowkiss, I'll take a look at Gadd's book. Catbirdseat, yes, in the wild all cobras come with fangs but the BD cobras are defanged.
  3. Do Viper Fangs fit onto Cobras? If not, anyone know any easy way to jury-rig them on or come up with a good subsitute? Thanks! Chris
  4. Haven't tried them myself but friends have told me that they were dangerous and not to bother with them. I was just remembering this a few days ago on reading that a guy who slipped on ice and fell over a cliff on the Mt. Baldy trail (Los Angeles area) was wearing a set of these. (He wandered off after he fell, and they haven't found him yet. This was over a week ago so it doesn't look good.)
  5. Bah, humbug, he who dies with the most toys wins! But you're right, technology sucks. Send your camalots to me for proper disposal!
  6. I'm not sure if that is the case with the x6hr. The Suunto Advizor is advertised (from what I can see on the web) as using Polar technology and the transmitter actaully as the Polar label. However, these are conspiculously absent on the Suunto x6hr. It could be that in the x6hr, Polar is allowing Suunto to private-label its technology, but I doubt that Polar would agree to that, especially with a product that appears to be aimed at breaking into their "turf." But this is just speculation. I should probably call Polar or Suunto to find out.
  7. Anyone have a chance to play with both the new BD Gemini (with the 2 LEDs) and one of the Petzl Myos yet? What'd you think? Currently I'm leaning towards the Myo5, I just wish it didn't take 4 AA batteries, because with spares this means you have to carry 8!
  8. Anyone have any experience with the Polar S720i ? How good is its altimeter?http://www.polarusa.com/Products/Consumer/S720.asp I'm trying to decide between it and the Suunto x6hr. Both of these are combination altimeter/HRMs that allow you to log data and download it to your PC. The S720i seems to be the only model Polar makes that has an altimeter. I can't find very much information on the Polar web site about the altimeter function--the manual seems to mention it only in passing. But if it is as good as the Suunto or Avocet altimeters, the S720i may be the one to get. For the last few days been playing with a Suunto x6hr and am trying to decide if I'll keep it. The Polar S720i seems to offer many of the same features and at a better price. (The S720i does not offer the compass, but I expect to always carry an "analog" compass with me anyway. Also the S720i doesn't have the inclinometer, but the x6hr inclinometer doesn't work when the HRM is going and in my opinion this diminishes its usefulness.) Both the Polar S720i and the Suunto x6hr allow you to log and download data to your PC. From what I've heard the Polar software seems to work pretty well and is documented well. From the little time that I've spent playing with the Suunto software, it seems difficult to use and is poorly documented. Also the Suunto x6hr seems to have trouble picking up the heart rate signal in my car (but works in my gf's car) and on the stairmaster at the climbing gym--apparently due to rf interference. I'm not sure if the Polar would do any better with this regard. Anyway, I'm coming to the conclusion that the Polar S720i may be a better choice *IF* its altimeter is up to par. Unfortunatley, I don't have any prior experience with either HRMs or altimeters so I welcome any comments or suggestions. Thanks! Chris
  9. I also went with the lockdowns. Nice and simple. Easy to remove a hand to put in a screw, etc.
  10. So... I guess these are the new ascents: http://www.msrcorp.com/snow/denali_evo_ascent.asp
  11. "On sight v-threader " Does this company have a website? I couldn't find anything via google searching...
  12. "Evernew 1.3L titanium pot, MSR .75 titan pot, and pocket rocket make great hanging stove" This item caught my eye. (I know the Superfly with the hanging kit is supposed to work great but I already own a pocket rocket. ) How would I assemble these pots and the pocket rocket assemble into a hanging stove? Also, anyone suceed in adding a piezo to their pocket rocket?
  13. Anyone use this and have any opinions about it? I heard that it works like a gri gri except is lighter, can be used on single or double ropes, can be used to belay a trad lead, can used to rap single or double strand... Seems to be good to be true. I would guess that if this was so great everyone would have one.
  14. There are web sites that calculate this for you. Just do a google search for "metric conversion calculator." I like this one: http://www.sciencemadesimple.com/conversions.html
  15. cjain

    Giardia

    It's good to see that Robert Rockwell's paper, _Giardia Lambia and Giardia with Particular Emphasis to the Sierra Nevada_, is still generating vigorous debate long after it originally came out. Bob has recently made substantial revisions to this paper and the revised version is available at the California Mountaineering Club web site at www.californiamountaineer.com . In an email to me, Bob summarized the revised paper as follows: "It’s about 1/3 longer and has about 1/3 more references (over 500 KB now). Most of the new research and data reinforce the earlier findings so if they were on a solid basis before, they are even more so now. "But there is new information, too. The immunity question is explored further. I have included some data on municipal drinking water problems, to make the point that a person who feels the need to sterilize Sierra water is not acting sensibly if he drinks his home tap water without treating it. The problem of Giardia in pets is new. I've elaborated a little on “drinking smart.” "There are a number of smaller improvements, to add or reduce emphasis here and there, or to make things clearer. "Finally, I've made the “closing arguments” more forceful, in the probably vain hope that the USFS and NPS will rethink the recommendations they provide to wilderness visitors."
  16. Allison, just to confirm, the version of the Ascents that you are testing is not currently available for sale, correct?
  17. After slipping & sliding with my old, heavy Sherpas last weekend, I've decided its time to upgrade. Currently I'm leaning toward the MSR Denali snowshoes & trying to decide between the "Classic" and Ascent" models. Looking at the MSR web site, the only features that the Ascent has that the Classic does not are the (1) heel-lifting device for climbing slopes and (2) "sabre teeth" on the traction bars. The Ascents will run me approx. $160 while I can get the Classics for approx. $80. So... I'm curious to know how useful the extra features are so I can decide whether they're worth paying twice the price for? Has anyone noticed a big difference in performance betwen the Ascents and the Classics? Thanks, Chris
  18. I have both a Wild Things Ice Sac and a Serratus Icefall (from MEC www.mec.ca). For anything over a few pounds I much prefer the Icefall, mostly because it has 2 removable stays that allow it carry weight much better. Also I think the lid compartment of the Icefall is much better. Even though it is larger and has a frame (the stays) the Icefall weighs about the same as the Ice Sac and, if desired, you can save weight by taking the lid and stays off. I would guess that Ice Sac is more durable though. Oh, and the Icefall is half the cost of the Ice Sac.
  19. You can get Red Ledge side zip pants from Campmor for $40 or so. Got good reviews as lightweight raingear. Don't know how durable it is. I got a pair but haven't used them yet.
  20. If anyone has a Cobra adze (just the adze, not the entire tool) lying around that they want to get rid off, I'd consider buying it.
  21. I remember reading somewhere that in really soft snow conditions (like where it would be impossible to arrest with the ice axe pick) some climbers use a picket for self-belay rather than an ice axe. Anyone do this before?
  22. >>>>>>>I have a couple of these guys [Yates pickets] and like them alot, they are a bit lighter than the "T" style . Do you have the ones with the cable? Does the cable really help? If you hammer it into the snow (as opposed to using it as a deadman) I would guess you'd want to just clip the top and not use the cable at all, correct?
  23. Which do you prefer? How many do you carry? It it worth carrying the 36 inch pickets over the 24 inche ones? I gotta confess that while I've practiced placing both pickets and deadmen I really haven't needed to use them yet for "real." I usually solo steep snow and on the occasions where we did use pro we have been able to use rock pro. (Most of my mountaineering has been in the Sierra Nevada. ) So interested in hearing people's opinions on using these.
  24. Anyone use new-matic bindings for doing vertical ice/mixed? How well do they handle compared to normal step-ins? I'm planning on getting a pair of Grivel G14s to replace my ancient Grivel 2Fs and can either go crampomatic or new-matic...
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