Necronomicon Posted August 4, 2003 Posted August 4, 2003 I was running it out on "The Zip", hoping to get to the first pod and stand up, rather than try and get gear from failing fingers. My last peice was a yellow Alien. One hand greased out, and I lost my feet and fell. I somehow managed to get flipped over by either the rope or my second to last piece of gear. I had time to think "FuckI'mfallingIamgettingflippedoverbackwardsIamgoingtohitmyheadIamgladIhavemyhelmeton" and then I was hanging upside down about ten feet above the belay ledge. Mike lowered me down for an exchange of wide-eyed looks, and I tried it again. I managed to get in another piece, but my hands were useless, and Mike had to finish the lead, which I could barely complete on top rope. Today, I have a knarly looking bruise on the back of my thigh from my seminar on "The Efficacy of the Rope Management System in Preventing the Loss of Human Life". Mike figures I fell 25 feet, and we rather tastelessly coined a new phrase that I'd be happy to PM to descibe my experience. Quote
ryland_moore Posted August 4, 2003 Posted August 4, 2003 Way to go on the bomber alien placement! God, I love those little f'ers! Quote
Dru Posted August 4, 2003 Posted August 4, 2003 one time i was trying to lead da zip and i got my hand in the pod and threw in a #2 flexy friend and grabbed the biner to clip, and clipped with the rope over my finger, and yelled Take and my finger got caught between the biner and the rope and i had a fingertip with no feeling for 3 months. hangdog epic Quote
catbirdseat Posted August 5, 2003 Posted August 5, 2003 ryland_moore said: Way to go on the bomber alien placement! God, I love those little f'ers! Those little guys have saved MY bacon on one occasion. Gotta love 'em. Â Necro, a dubious honor to be sure. Tell us why your hands weren't working right. Too much pre climb wanking? Quote
layton Posted August 5, 2003 Posted August 5, 2003 Here's to the Yellow Alien! Here's to Pods  BTW i'm back in the game and leading harder than ever (seriously). PM me for long hard climbs. Quote
erik Posted August 5, 2003 Posted August 5, 2003 i dunno, i still prefer a tcu....but they all work! Â i almost whipped this weekend, though with enough swearing and heckling from my trusty partner, i managed a fukkin rad lead! Â Â Quote
Norsky Posted August 5, 2003 Posted August 5, 2003 I give up, where's the Zip? I could not find it in any of my guide books. Quote
Necronomicon Posted August 5, 2003 Author Posted August 5, 2003 michael_layton said: Here's to the Yellow Alien! Here's to Pods  BTW me me me  I think I would have been fine if Mike hadn't been smoking Quote
Necronomicon Posted August 5, 2003 Author Posted August 5, 2003 catbirdseat said: ryland_moore said: Way to go on the bomber alien placement! God, I love those little f'ers! Those little guys have saved MY bacon on one occasion. Gotta love 'em. Â Necro, a dubious honor to be sure. Tell us why your hands weren't working right. Too much pre climb wanking? Â Ask your Mom. When I couldn't clap, she was like "Tight, huh?" Quote
Fence_Sitter Posted August 5, 2003 Posted August 5, 2003 E-rock said: Smoke Bluffs. Classic 10a fingers. Â i dont think this is the one he is thinking about... mabe the one a lil closer to home... Quote
E-rock Posted August 5, 2003 Posted August 5, 2003 (edited) Blah blah blah? Blah blah blah blah blah? Edited August 5, 2003 by E-rock Quote
Necronomicon Posted August 5, 2003 Author Posted August 5, 2003 Fence_Sitter said: E-rock said: Smoke Bluffs. Classic 10a fingers. Â i dont think this is the one he is thinking about... mabe the one a lil closer to home... Â Squish Classic twas indeed Quote
Fence_Sitter Posted August 5, 2003 Posted August 5, 2003 I was hanging upside down about ten feet above the belay ledge. Â isn't it one pitch? or are you talking about the start that is like 2-3 meters above the ground? Quote
EWolfe Posted August 5, 2003 Posted August 5, 2003 Necronomicon said: Fence_Sitter said: E-rock said: Smoke Bluffs. Classic 10a fingers.   i dont think this is the one he is thinking about... mabe the one a lil closer to home...  Squish Classic twas indeed  Mikey? You carryin' across the border , or Dru helpin' you out?  Quote
dberdinka Posted August 5, 2003 Posted August 5, 2003 Necronomicon said: Mike had to finish the lead, which I could barely complete on top rope. Â Necro, you suck Quote
Necronomicon Posted August 5, 2003 Author Posted August 5, 2003 dberdinka said: Necronomicon said: Mike had to finish the lead, which I could barely complete on top rope.  Necro, you suck  More like "Mike, you're a hardman" and I have to clean his gear, so by the time I get to lead the "easy" stuff, I'm so spanked I can barely hold on. Quote
Dru Posted August 6, 2003 Posted August 6, 2003 Necronomicon said: by the time I get to lead the "easy" stuff, I'm so spanked I can barely hold on to his   thanks for sharing? Quote
AlpineK Posted August 6, 2003 Posted August 6, 2003 Ok, so I've cratered twice. Â Once (when I was 19) I fell near the top of Cool Springs in Field. I ripped all my screws and landed on my back. I compressed 2 verts and spent a week and a half lying on my back in a hospital in Golden. Â The second time, about 4 years ago, I rapped off the end of my rope while pruning a tree and fell 40'. i hit a couple branches on the way down with my sternum and then I flipped over and landed on my back. I broke my sternum. The cool thing about this was the day before I had given my boss 6 weeks notice cause I was starting my own company. So I spent 6 weeks getting L&I and then I called up my boss and told him I was better and see ya later! Quote
Alex Posted August 6, 2003 Posted August 6, 2003 ryland_moore said: Way to go on the bomber alien placement! God, I love those little f'ers! Â I just broke a yellow alien in a fall at Index few weeks ago. It was a little scary, considering I've taken two 20+ footers on Mr Blue Alien. Quote
chucK Posted August 6, 2003 Posted August 6, 2003 details!!? Spill Alex. Route? Length of fall? Dogbone draws involved? Â Â Quote
Alex Posted August 6, 2003 Posted August 6, 2003 not much to tell. went to Toxic Shock and it was a little damp. I started up lieback, plugged in Mr Red, plugged in Mr Yellow above that. Skated off lieback, the yellow blew out, and lack of cam stops pretty much toasted it. The trigger wires got caught between the teeth, but after getting them out the unit still doesnt work, so I guess the axl got bent. Mr Red held the fall about 2 feet off the ground. I got another yellow off the rack, placed it again, and lead to the top, a bit shaky. Quote
Peter_Puget Posted August 6, 2003 Posted August 6, 2003 Alex - Â Just trying to visualize how the lack of cam stops "toasted" the alien. Can you tell me more about how that happened? Â PP Quote
erik Posted August 6, 2003 Posted August 6, 2003 i told ya all that those aliens are shitty for free climbing! but nooooooooooo, dont listen to me!!! i mean the last few cam blow out injury happenings involved aliens............. Â good for aid, not so good for free! Â least in my sketchy opinion! Â glad your not hurt alex! that lie back is always a bugger! Â Â Quote
texplorer Posted August 6, 2003 Posted August 6, 2003 Aliens are the shizzle to the nizzle. Sometimes you have to place cams in "not so ideal situations." It is a drawback that sometimes if they blow out they get ruined as in Alex's case. A TCU however wouldn't hold in the same situation it would just pop out. Â Who said pods are evil anyway. Pods are great feet and climbins all about the feet. Quote
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