Gary_Yngve Posted July 25, 2003 Share Posted July 25, 2003 At the risk of having a bunch of jackasses post pointless inane replies, here I go: For the past few months, Eric and I have been hitting Index once every week or two (on weekday mornings with no one else around), and it's been great -- we've worked our way up to onsighting 5.9s (no, not Sagittarius) and 5.10a handcracks. It seems the next step to up our grades is to find harder routes to TR until we feel comfortable leading them and then test ourselves on unseen routes of the same difficulty. So what are some recommended 5.10bcd stuff that isn't too much of a pain to set up a top rope (i.e. can climb an easier route to access the anchors)? If you guys are lame and don't give any suggestions, we'll just wander up to Index and spend the day investigating ourselves... but suggestions would be appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted July 26, 2003 Share Posted July 26, 2003 Gary_Yngve said: At the risk of having a bunch of jackasses post pointless inane replies City Park Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric8 Posted July 26, 2003 Share Posted July 26, 2003 Dru said: Gary_Yngve said: At the risk of having a bunch of jackasses post pointless inane replies City Park Well actually we climb godizilla today and as we were rapping down i notice that city park was bomber finger locks and feets that are good even by indian creek standards. So thank you will put that one on the list. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StylinBill Posted July 26, 2003 Share Posted July 26, 2003 You could try climbing Toxic Shock (5.9) on the Inner Wall. You can scramble right at the top and set up a TR on Even Steven (11.b) - twin cracks - should be an enjoyable few hours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted July 26, 2003 Share Posted July 26, 2003 Dru said: Gary_Yngve said: At the risk of having a bunch of jackasses post pointless inane replies City Park wallstain said: That dude is whack. what the fuck does he know. I sent that shit on my first redpoint attempt. it was only .12a That fucker was in TM just last weak. He fell off the great white book. From: "Erik" <BABYORCA@hotmail.com> To: mICROGUIDE@hotmail.com Subject: SHORT PEOPLE ARE WEAK! Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2003 11:03:32 -0700 HERE YA GO http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/index/citypark.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted July 26, 2003 Share Posted July 26, 2003 Spineless at Private Idaho is a good un You could probably toprope Dr. Sniff If you do Free At Last you can rap down and toprope Slow Children. Do Beak Beak Beak and toprope Newest Industry more? walk to the top of the Upper Wall and progressively rap and toprope Davis Holland lovin arms backwards (or would that be arms lovin holland davis? ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted July 26, 2003 Author Share Posted July 26, 2003 Thanks! Lots of good suggestions! These should keep us busy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daler Posted July 26, 2003 Share Posted July 26, 2003 Climb Godzilla then when rapping vear to the left and set up a tr on Bat Skins. Its first pitch is 11a But You should still give it a crack. It is a fine pitch. You will need to set a couple of directionals as the pitch traverses a bit. Dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted July 26, 2003 Share Posted July 26, 2003 I forgot the obvious one. If you climb Free At last (or Narrow Arrow [regular] p1 ) You can walk across the big ledge then downclimb a tree to the top of Thin Fingers . You can also probably toprope Quarry Crack from the up there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted July 28, 2003 Share Posted July 28, 2003 BOC! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted July 28, 2003 Share Posted July 28, 2003 you can TR sugar bear (10c) from the top of first pitch of Rogers Corner you can TR Rogers corner p2/breakfast of champs (with a 60m or 70m) by climbing GNS then hiking steep trail up and around to anchors you can TR a nice 11b arete from Toxic shock anchor, or traverse right (5.0) to set up Even Steven you can go to Index on weekday, easily aid Thin Fingers with a bunch of cams, then TR it free you can rap off the top anchor from GNS to the top anchor or Terminal Preppie, and TR that I recommend you stay with Clint Cummins guide and just learn it really well, you'll start seeing other stuff to do as you get more familiar with the area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCramer Posted July 29, 2003 Share Posted July 29, 2003 By far the best 5.10 TR at Index would be the top two pitches of Narrow Arrow Direct. The top of the Narrow Arrow can be reached by any of several variations. (From 5.7-5.11) TR the top two pitches as one. The "TR" pitch will start off as a thin crack and turn into a hand crack thru a bulge. It then widens into a nice chimney with a rest just before the squeeze/OW finish. Multiple 5.10 cruxes. Great climbing! If you don't mind a bit of cleaning the Garden Wall has some nice 5.10 TRs. The routes on Hag Crag can be easily TR'd. Belay at the base of the chimney on the Lizard route and TR On the Virgin then climb the chimney and then move right and TR Walkin' the Dog and Sonic Reducer (Pulling up on the bottom bolts reduces the climb to 5.10.) Turning the bulge/roof is really fun. If you are over on the East Ledges don't forget about Walter B. The crux is a boulder type face move (5.11) but it ends on a ledge and from there the route is an athletic corner (5.10) Just lower to the bottom of the corner. Much better than Quarry Crack. In the Country it is easy to TR the first pitch of Heart of the Country. It is also easy to walk arouind the east side and set up TRs on Dead Bobcats and Lizard Antlers. Right to the right is a knob covered TR wall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slothrop Posted July 29, 2003 Share Posted July 29, 2003 Do you need two ropes to TR both top pitches of Narrow Arrow at once? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCramer Posted July 30, 2003 Share Posted July 30, 2003 slothrop said: Do you need two ropes to TR both top pitches of Narrow Arrow at once? I am not sure but I would be inclined to believe that a 60m rope would work probably even a 50m would work as well. The last pitch is very short. It is basically a 15’ OW/Squeeze. If your goal is to TR the route, I would think that the best thing would be to belay from the top. The belay ledge on top of the NA is spacious and flat and would be much more comfy than any other belay ledge on the route. After TRing the top two pitches I would rap and TR the second. This pitch would best be belayed at its base (ie top of the first) and is 10a. One caveat: The belay bolts at the top of the NA may be terrible. I am pretty sure they have been replaced but if not I would be reluctant to use them. If they are not in good condition setting up a backup is possible and it is relatively easy to climb off the back of the NA and climb over to the East Ledges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quien_Sabe Posted July 30, 2003 Share Posted July 30, 2003 Sugar Bear is a worthwhile TR IMO. Real fun moves and a good crux Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCramer Posted August 8, 2003 Share Posted August 8, 2003 What's the verdict on the recomendations? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted August 8, 2003 Share Posted August 8, 2003 I TR'd that corner at the base of the GNS the other day. I think Daryl calls it .10c in his book, but it has no name. It was real fun: tiny finger locks and some brutal stemming. It's only about 30' tall, but it was fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sphinx Posted August 8, 2003 Share Posted August 8, 2003 It's fun, but pretty easy. I didn't stem most of it, just the lower part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fence_Sitter Posted August 9, 2003 Share Posted August 9, 2003 Sphinx said: It's fun, but pretty easy. I didn't stem most of it, just the lower part. one move wonder... last move was tricky, but the rest was cruiser... fun tho... woulda liked a 200 ft corner of that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scot'teryx Posted August 9, 2003 Share Posted August 9, 2003 one move wonder... last move was tricky, but the rest was cruiser... fun tho... woulda liked a 200 ft corner of that! One move wonder for a guy that has a wing span of 13 feet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fence_Sitter Posted August 9, 2003 Share Posted August 9, 2003 scot'teryx said: one move wonder... last move was tricky, but the rest was cruiser... fun tho... woulda liked a 200 ft corner of that! One move wonder for a guy that has a wing span of 13 feet! jsut a crimp ladder till the last one... and i think i am not far off of 13 ft. you remember the 'dyno' comp! scotty T lets go clombing soon... i am done with work in a week... elmme know .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted August 9, 2003 Author Share Posted August 9, 2003 DCramer said: In the Country it is easy to TR the first pitch of Heart of the Country. It is also easy to walk arouind the east side and set up TRs on Dead Bobcats and Lizard Antlers. Right to the right is a knob covered TR wall. Today we thrashed around on P3 of G-M (Chuck's recommendation for Stuart Gendarme practice) and did TR laps on HoC p3 with the 5.11 extension. Having torn up our hands sufficiently, we tried to find the knobby TR area, but our gumby asses failed miserably, and instead we climbed up some line that looked like fun... finger crack turn gardening adventure, probably 5.8 when clean. We spent a few minutes cleaning it up more on rap... There was a piton halfway up the route, so apparently it had been climbed before... We tried to do the 5.10 variation approach to P1 G-M, but we could barely pull one move on it... maybe the crimpy face isn't really 5.10? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCramer Posted August 9, 2003 Share Posted August 9, 2003 Gary_Yngve said: Today we thrashed around on P3 of G-M (Chuck's recommendation for Stuart Gendarme practice) and did TR laps on HoC p3 with the 5.11 extension. Having torn up our hands sufficiently, we tried to find the knobby TR area, but our gumby asses failed miserably, and instead we climbed up some line that looked like fun... finger crack turn gardening adventure, probably 5.8 when clean. We spent a few minutes cleaning it up more on rap... There was a piton halfway up the route, so apparently it had been climbed before... We tried to do the 5.10 variation approach to P1 G-M, but we could barely pull one move on it... maybe the crimpy face isn't really 5.10? Hmm I wonder where you were? Did you see any bolts? Deadbocats and Antlers start off with a flake and then Bobcats moves right (face moves, maple tree at base?) to a left trending wide crack. I imagine they would both be a bit grimy. If I remember correctly the belay is off a tree. Since you were on rap I would imagine you would have seen any bolts. Did the pin look like it was once painted blue? The knobby wall is short 20' maybe and lots of knobs. You must have been very close to it. Next time I am out there I'll try to remember to walk over and see what better directions would be. The variation start is pretty bouldery but the first moves s/b the hardest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted August 9, 2003 Author Share Posted August 9, 2003 DCramer said: Hmm I wonder where you were? Did you see any bolts? Deadbocats and Antlers start off with a flake and then Bobcats moves right (face moves, maple tree at base?) to a left trending wide crack. I imagine they would both be a bit grimy. If I remember correctly the belay is off a tree. Since you were on rap I would imagine you would have seen any bolts. Did the pin look like it was once painted blue? The knobby wall is short 20' maybe and lots of knobs. You must have been very close to it. Next time I am out there I'll try to remember to walk over and see what better directions would be. Yeah, it sounds like we were somewhere very close to it... we remember passing the 5.12a mantel route on the trail, and a little later, there was a fork left, which is where we went. Don't remember a color on the pin. We belayed at top and bottom on trees and didn't see any bolts around us. Certainly a lot of fun stuff to explore! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric8 Posted August 9, 2003 Share Posted August 9, 2003 The pin was just a regular old rusty piton. I saw an off width not to far up and left of us. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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