chucK Posted July 24, 2003 Posted July 24, 2003 Can you link the Sword with the bolt ladder above it and thus avoid the hanging belay? this one ^ Quote
bird Posted July 24, 2003 Posted July 24, 2003 lummox said: where are the critiques of the belay setup? Â I'm not so worried about the belay setup. I'm more concerned about the pants he is wearing. Quote
chucK Posted July 24, 2003 Author Posted July 24, 2003 bird said: I'm not so worried about the belay setup. I'm more concerned about the pants he is wearing. Â See this link: homophobes beware!!!! Quote
erik Posted July 24, 2003 Posted July 24, 2003 thelawgoddess said: what's wrong with hanging belays? obviously you have never been at one for very long. just wait your time will come and you too will learn to hate hangning belays. Â Quote
thelawgoddess Posted July 24, 2003 Posted July 24, 2003 hmm. i always thought i just needed a new harness. although, i'm sort of getting accustomed to that seemingly endless pressure on my kidney. ugh ... rock climbing = pain. rock climbing = good. therefore ... pain = good. Quote
erik Posted July 24, 2003 Posted July 24, 2003 i dunno about the pain part being good cuz when my ballz are pinned in my leg loop, i in no way equate that as good. Â you love your pain, and i will love my ballz! Â Quote
daler Posted July 24, 2003 Posted July 24, 2003 All I can say is why not always use the rope as part of your anchor. You are tied into it and its ready to go- use it! Also with so many modern belay devices I can't believe so many people still redirect through the anchor and then belay off the harness. Not only does this double the force on the anchor(not a problem with bomber bolt anchors) but it is a pain in the ass. Just belay of the Anchor. Â Dale Quote
Dru Posted July 24, 2003 Posted July 24, 2003 daler said: All I can say is why not always use the rope as part of your anchor. You are tied into it and its ready to go- use it! Also with so many modern belay devices I can't believe so many people still redirect through the anchor and then belay off the harness. Not only does this double the force on the anchor(not a problem with bomber bolt anchors) but it is a pain in the ass. Just belay of the Anchor.  Dale   it sure sucks when your leader has to stop 3m from the next anchor while you daisy into the anchor and then untie your knot you had been tied into the anchor with, so she can finish the pitch Quote
lummox Posted July 24, 2003 Posted July 24, 2003 Dru said: daler said: All I can say is why not always use the rope as part of your anchor. You are tied into it and its ready to go- use it! Also with so many modern belay devices I can't believe so many people still redirect through the anchor and then belay off the harness. Not only does this double the force on the anchor(not a problem with bomber bolt anchors) but it is a pain in the ass. Just belay of the Anchor.  Dale   it sure sucks when your leader has to stop 3m from the next anchor while you daisy into the anchor and then untie your knot you had been tied into the anchor with, so she can finish the pitch that sure would suck cuz that would mean you climbing the grand on a 120foot fucking rope. btw it sucks to be unneccesarily unsafe for the sake of belayer convenience. Quote
Greg_W Posted July 24, 2003 Posted July 24, 2003 erik said: you love your pain, and i will love my ballz! Â Â Now if you could just get her to love easing the pain in your ballz. Bwahahahahaha Quote
daler Posted July 24, 2003 Posted July 24, 2003 Dru, Â I'm surprized that a supposed alpine guru like yourself would make a comment on this. If the leader is almost out of rope just unclip from the anchor and get ready to climb. If its a hanging belay just clip in with a sling and wait for the the belay. BTW- If you set it up correct it doesn't take any extra rope. Â dale Quote
j_b Posted July 24, 2003 Posted July 24, 2003 BTW- If you set it up correct it doesn't take any extra rope.  if one uses the rope to tie off, it'd be impossible to use extra rope since it is a hanging belay  (sorry, i had the mental picture of belaying, hanging 30' below the anchor and thought it quite funny) Quote
mattp Posted July 24, 2003 Posted July 24, 2003 Dru said: it sure sucks when your leader has to stop 3m from the next anchor while you daisy into the anchor and then untie your knot you had been tied into the anchor with, so she can finish the pitch  It sure must suck to have to worry about something that almost never happens. Quote
Dru Posted July 24, 2003 Posted July 24, 2003 using rope for an anchor uses rope the leader & second can use to extend the length of alpine pitches.  switching the rope anchor for a sling anchor partway thru the pitch uses time and is not always convenient; why not just use a sling in the first place  escaping the belay in emergency is easier if your rope is not part of it  so; not using the rope for an anchor is faster, easier and safer  not to mention using the rope for an anchor is just plain lame  but hey if you guys wanna be lame go for it Quote
Dru Posted July 24, 2003 Posted July 24, 2003 mattp said: Dru said: it sure sucks when your leader has to stop 3m from the next anchor while you daisy into the anchor and then untie your knot you had been tied into the anchor with, so she can finish the pitch  It sure must suck to have to worry about something that almost never happens.  of course when you are busy rap bolting sport slab climbs you have the luxury to design pitches that never use a full 60m Quote
jordop Posted July 24, 2003 Posted July 24, 2003 daler said: All I can say is why not always use the rope as part of your anchor. You are tied into it and its ready to go- use it! Also with so many modern belay devices I can't believe so many people still redirect through the anchor and then belay off the harness. Not only does this double the force on the anchor(not a problem with bomber bolt anchors) but it is a pain in the ass. Just belay of the Anchor.  Dale  Yes not always. Anchor sucks and the dynamics of a belay off the body will lessen force on anchor. Basically all falls I have ever caught have been arrested by my own weight. Just don't climb with tubbies, that's all!  ***ACMG now advises all guides to clove hitch into the anchor as a daisy or chain is not meant to take a dynamic force. This is funny cause the person who told me this passed on advice from the ACMG two years ago stating that clove hitches were unreliable as primary anchors Quote
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