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Grand Wall question


chucK

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All I can say is why not always use the rope as part of your anchor. You are tied into it and its ready to go- use it! Also with so many modern belay devices I can't believe so many people still redirect through the anchor and then belay off the harness. Not only does this double the force on the anchor(not a problem with bomber bolt anchors) but it is a pain in the ass. Just belay of the Anchor.

 

Dale bigdrink.gif

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daler said:

All I can say is why not always use the rope as part of your anchor. You are tied into it and its ready to go- use it! Also with so many modern belay devices I can't believe so many people still redirect through the anchor and then belay off the harness. Not only does this double the force on the anchor(not a problem with bomber bolt anchors) but it is a pain in the ass. Just belay of the Anchor.

 

Dale bigdrink.gif

 

 

it sure sucks when your leader has to stop 3m from the next anchor while you daisy into the anchor and then untie your knot you had been tied into the anchor with, so she can finish the pitch rolleyes.gif

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Dru said:

daler said:

All I can say is why not always use the rope as part of your anchor. You are tied into it and its ready to go- use it! Also with so many modern belay devices I can't believe so many people still redirect through the anchor and then belay off the harness. Not only does this double the force on the anchor(not a problem with bomber bolt anchors) but it is a pain in the ass. Just belay of the Anchor.

 

Dale bigdrink.gif

 

 

it sure sucks when your leader has to stop 3m from the next anchor while you daisy into the anchor and then untie your knot you had been tied into the anchor with, so she can finish the pitch rolleyes.gif

that sure would suck rolleyes.gif cuz that would mean you climbing the grand on a 120foot fucking rope.

btw it sucks to be unneccesarily unsafe for the sake of belayer convenience.

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Dru,

 

I'm surprized that a supposed alpine guru like yourself would make a comment on this.

If the leader is almost out of rope just unclip from the anchor and get ready to climb. If its a hanging belay just clip in with a sling and wait for the the belay.

BTW- If you set it up correct it doesn't take any extra rope.

 

dale

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BTW- If you set it up correct it doesn't take any extra rope.

 

if one uses the rope to tie off, it'd be impossible to use extra rope since it is a hanging belay cantfocus.gif

 

(sorry, i had the mental picture of belaying, hanging 30' below the anchor and thought it quite funny)

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Dru said:

it sure sucks when your leader has to stop 3m from the next anchor while you daisy into the anchor and then untie your knot you had been tied into the anchor with, so she can finish the pitch rolleyes.gif

 

It sure must suck to have to worry about something that almost never happens.

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using rope for an anchor uses rope the leader & second can use to extend the length of alpine pitches.

 

switching the rope anchor for a sling anchor partway thru the pitch uses time and is not always convenient; why not just use a sling in the first place

 

escaping the belay in emergency is easier if your rope is not part of it

 

so; not using the rope for an anchor is faster, easier and safer

 

boxing_smiley.gif not to mention using the rope for an anchor is just plain lame boxing_smiley.gif

 

but hey if you guys wanna be lame go for it

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mattp said:

Dru said:

it sure sucks when your leader has to stop 3m from the next anchor while you daisy into the anchor and then untie your knot you had been tied into the anchor with, so she can finish the pitch rolleyes.gif

 

It sure must suck to have to worry about something that almost never happens.

 

of course when you are busy rap bolting sport slab climbs you have the luxury to design pitches that never use a full 60m yellaf.gif

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daler said:

All I can say is why not always use the rope as part of your anchor. You are tied into it and its ready to go- use it! Also with so many modern belay devices I can't believe so many people still redirect through the anchor and then belay off the harness. Not only does this double the force on the anchor(not a problem with bomber bolt anchors) but it is a pain in the ass. Just belay of the Anchor.

 

Dale bigdrink.gif

 

Yes not always. Anchor sucks and the dynamics of a belay off the body will lessen force on anchor. Basically all falls I have ever caught have been arrested by my own weight. Just don't climb with tubbies, that's all!

 

***ACMG now advises all guides to clove hitch into the anchor as a daisy or chain is not meant to take a dynamic force. This is funny cause the person who told me this passed on advice from the ACMG two years ago stating that clove hitches were unreliable as primary anchors rolleyes.gifyellaf.gifyellaf.gif

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