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Farrgo

Pro for flaring cracks?

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Is there such a thing? I was trying a lead at broughton bluff on the spring, and I put a cam in a flaring crack (which was the only place to put pro within the first 20-25 feet) and it held body weight but didn't look like it would hold a fall because the cam heads were tilted back. then when i started to climb above it, i walked it out of the crack. I understand this last issue was probably because i should have attached a longer sling or q-draw to the cam instead of just a biner. but does anybody have some suggestions on how to protect flaring cracks, or do you just run it out?

 

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Sometimes tricams will work in larger flaring cracks if there is a good divot into which the point can be placed. Dru, you are a tricam fan, aren't you? Care to comment?

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tricams are so so for flares unless they pod. offset cams are the way to go.

 

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That'd be "PWPIAD", not "POD". Anyways, imagine a pea pod, space alien pod, or other pod-shaped thingus, and apply this shape to your average gap-in-the-rock, aka "crack", and you got your pod, i.e. a pod-shaped feature, usu. in a crack.

 

And, according to 'The Cam Book' from Wild Country, if a cam holds body weight in a flare, it'll probably hold a whipper, since cams dig in more the harder you tug on 'em. Don't argue with DFA, just read 'The Cam Book' and see for yourself.

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Also WC offset nuts work pretty good in flaring cracks and you can get a whole set for the price of 2 offset cams.

 

Pitons work good too! thumbs_up.gif

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Dr_Flash_Amazing said:

That'd be "PWPIAD", not "POD". Anyways, imagine a pea pod, space alien pod, or other pod-shaped thingus, and apply this shape to your average gap-in-the-rock, aka "crack", and you got your pod, i.e. a pod-shaped feature, usu. in a crack.

 

And, according to 'The Cam Book' from Wild Country, if a cam holds body weight in a flare, it'll probably hold a whipper, since cams dig in more the harder you tug on 'em. Don't argue with DFA, just read 'The Cam Book' and see for yourself.

 

ive done that route at ole smith! good dirty fun!!!!

 

 

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this from the guy who walks by some of the most famous sport routes in the country to grovel up rattlesnake chimney. thumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gifyellaf.gif

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iain said:

this from the guy who walks by some of the most famous sport routes in the country to grovel up rattlesnake chimney. thumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gifthumbs_up.gifyellaf.gif

 

and nearly killed fern with the rocks and gravel he threw down too!

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pfft

 

sack it up drul, i wanna see you climb the dirtest route next to the most photographed route at smith!!!

 

 

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i have this thing called "route finding skill" which keeps me out of loose dirt chimneys wave.gif

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Dru said:

i have this thing called "route finding skill" which keeps me out of loose dirt chimneys wave.gif

he prefers the thrutching slimey armbar pitch followed by a forgettable mindless 5.7 clip-up to the left of that chimney hahaha.gif

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iain said:

followed by a forgettable mindless 5.7 clip-up to the left of that chimney hahaha.gif

 

did i do that sport route? i thought you and drul did that whilst fern and i toughed it out in hanta country! i remember rapping your line tho!

 

 

cantfocus.gif

 

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onsighting on TR counts as a free point for your 8a.nu scorecard Iain!!! wave.gif

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Dru said:

hybrids and offset friends

 

Yep. If it's truly unprotectable by anything else that is worth a crap then what dru said is the deal.

 

Sometimes being creative with gear helps but not always- IE a tri cam (lowe) has less surface space than a cam for instance but the rock depends.... I have not done said route.....

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Dru said:

onsighting on TR counts as a free point for your 8a.nu scorecard Iain!!! wave.gif

I distinctly remember leading that clippy part, as I was hanging it out at least 3 ft above last bolt at times, particularly after I had clipped 12 draws within >12m and my clipping hand was worn out. Dru picks up the 8a.nu onsight points for the wide plumber's crack though. hahaha.gif

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What about hexes. The sides of hexes are tapered for flaring cracks. Look at the top of a hex and you will see what I am talking about. I've only used them like this a couple time but it has worked. Being passive pro, if the crack is too flaired they will not work. I've never used offset cams so I'm not sure how they would compare.

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MisterE said:

I can't believe no-one has mentioned off-set Aliens yet... wazzup.gif

 

They rockband.gif

 

i guess you forgot they are called "hybrids" hahaha.giffruit.gifwazzup.gif

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