Farrgo Posted July 23, 2003 Posted July 23, 2003 Is there such a thing? I was trying a lead at broughton bluff on the spring, and I put a cam in a flaring crack (which was the only place to put pro within the first 20-25 feet) and it held body weight but didn't look like it would hold a fall because the cam heads were tilted back. then when i started to climb above it, i walked it out of the crack. I understand this last issue was probably because i should have attached a longer sling or q-draw to the cam instead of just a biner. but does anybody have some suggestions on how to protect flaring cracks, or do you just run it out? Quote
catbirdseat Posted July 23, 2003 Posted July 23, 2003 Sometimes tricams will work in larger flaring cracks if there is a good divot into which the point can be placed. Dru, you are a tricam fan, aren't you? Care to comment? Quote
Dru Posted July 23, 2003 Posted July 23, 2003 tricams are so so for flares unless they pod. offset cams are the way to go. Quote
catbirdseat Posted July 23, 2003 Posted July 23, 2003 Dru, please define the word, "pod". Does that mean "placed with point in a depression"? Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted July 23, 2003 Posted July 23, 2003 That'd be "PWPIAD", not "POD". Anyways, imagine a pea pod, space alien pod, or other pod-shaped thingus, and apply this shape to your average gap-in-the-rock, aka "crack", and you got your pod, i.e. a pod-shaped feature, usu. in a crack. And, according to 'The Cam Book' from Wild Country, if a cam holds body weight in a flare, it'll probably hold a whipper, since cams dig in more the harder you tug on 'em. Don't argue with DFA, just read 'The Cam Book' and see for yourself. Quote
Bronco Posted July 23, 2003 Posted July 23, 2003 Also WC offset nuts work pretty good in flaring cracks and you can get a whole set for the price of 2 offset cams. Pitons work good too! Quote
erik Posted July 23, 2003 Posted July 23, 2003 Dr_Flash_Amazing said: That'd be "PWPIAD", not "POD". Anyways, imagine a pea pod, space alien pod, or other pod-shaped thingus, and apply this shape to your average gap-in-the-rock, aka "crack", and you got your pod, i.e. a pod-shaped feature, usu. in a crack. And, according to 'The Cam Book' from Wild Country, if a cam holds body weight in a flare, it'll probably hold a whipper, since cams dig in more the harder you tug on 'em. Don't argue with DFA, just read 'The Cam Book' and see for yourself. ive done that route at ole smith! good dirty fun!!!! Quote
iain Posted July 23, 2003 Posted July 23, 2003 this from the guy who walks by some of the most famous sport routes in the country to grovel up rattlesnake chimney. Quote
Dru Posted July 23, 2003 Posted July 23, 2003 iain said: this from the guy who walks by some of the most famous sport routes in the country to grovel up rattlesnake chimney. and nearly killed fern with the rocks and gravel he threw down too! Quote
erik Posted July 23, 2003 Posted July 23, 2003 pfft sack it up drul, i wanna see you climb the dirtest route next to the most photographed route at smith!!! Quote
Dru Posted July 24, 2003 Posted July 24, 2003 i have this thing called "route finding skill" which keeps me out of loose dirt chimneys Quote
iain Posted July 24, 2003 Posted July 24, 2003 Dru said: i have this thing called "route finding skill" which keeps me out of loose dirt chimneys he prefers the thrutching slimey armbar pitch followed by a forgettable mindless 5.7 clip-up to the left of that chimney Quote
erik Posted July 24, 2003 Posted July 24, 2003 iain said: followed by a forgettable mindless 5.7 clip-up to the left of that chimney did i do that sport route? i thought you and drul did that whilst fern and i toughed it out in hanta country! i remember rapping your line tho! Quote
iain Posted July 24, 2003 Posted July 24, 2003 I was referring to drul. I f'ing onsighted that bitch. Quote
Dru Posted July 24, 2003 Posted July 24, 2003 onsighting on TR counts as a free point for your 8a.nu scorecard Iain!!! Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted July 24, 2003 Posted July 24, 2003 Dru said: hybrids and offset friends Yep. If it's truly unprotectable by anything else that is worth a crap then what dru said is the deal. Sometimes being creative with gear helps but not always- IE a tri cam (lowe) has less surface space than a cam for instance but the rock depends.... I have not done said route..... Quote
iain Posted July 24, 2003 Posted July 24, 2003 Dru said: onsighting on TR counts as a free point for your 8a.nu scorecard Iain!!! I distinctly remember leading that clippy part, as I was hanging it out at least 3 ft above last bolt at times, particularly after I had clipped 12 draws within >12m and my clipping hand was worn out. Dru picks up the 8a.nu onsight points for the wide plumber's crack though. Quote
MATT_B Posted July 24, 2003 Posted July 24, 2003 What about hexes. The sides of hexes are tapered for flaring cracks. Look at the top of a hex and you will see what I am talking about. I've only used them like this a couple time but it has worked. Being passive pro, if the crack is too flaired they will not work. I've never used offset cams so I'm not sure how they would compare. Quote
slothrop Posted July 24, 2003 Posted July 24, 2003 Offset Friends are on sale on Mountain Gear. Quote
EWolfe Posted July 25, 2003 Posted July 25, 2003 I can't believe no-one has mentioned off-set Aliens yet... They Quote
Dru Posted July 25, 2003 Posted July 25, 2003 MisterE said: I can't believe no-one has mentioned off-set Aliens yet... They i guess you forgot they are called "hybrids" Quote
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